no overdrive

7 sek mark

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i guess you could call this a pointless thread as i already sorta have one like it. i thought i would repost here and get it in its own post as the other started as a stripped starter bolt then ended up with no over drive so any ways.

i have the bottom half of my trans torn apart right now to try to fix my od servo goof and i think i got it fixed. im sorta taking a lunch/cool off break now but im about to go get back to it. i jsut have to put the pan, filter and fluid back in and go test drive it. im kinda glad i pulled it apart when i did because even though the valve body was torqued to spec one of the bolts was about 1/2 a turn from falling into the pan and a few of the pa bolts had worked loose. im sure those would not have been major failures but non the less they are fixed now.

i have another question one of the deals in the trans that plugs into the harness inside the pan has broken off of its tab. im not sure what it is but it just looks like either a cap to cap some un used wires, a jumper, or a temp sensor. its the plug that has the shortest wires going to it and is closest to the main plug that goes through the trans case. im thinking its just maybe a temp sensor and should be fine just laying in the pan but im not sure. it had a little tab deal that just poked through a unused hole in the valve body it could not read any pressure or plug anything so im thinking at most its a temp sensor right?
 
I have a problem with my OD too. What were your symptoms? After about 10 miles in OD going 75@2000 rpm, mine starts to gradually rev higher. When I let off the gas and then get back on it at about 70 it revs like it's in neutral. But when I rev it way up it grabs the gear. If I turn the OD OFF it wil go 65@2800-3000 rpm.
 
it soulds like either your od band is about to take a dump on you. the reasion my od did not work was because of my stupid mistake when i did the j-mod i pulled out the od servo instede of the 1-2 shift piston. when i pulled the od servo out it let the od band come off of the tip of the servo shaft. all i had to do was pull the valve body down and realign the od band and now i have my overdrive back.

thanks again J for your and your tranny guys advice it saved me alot of time to correct my dumb mistake u da man!!
 
The only other electrical connections at the valve body besides the solenoids is the temp sensor. Did you notice the wire colors? The temp sensor should be GY/R and O/BK.
 
it almost has to be the temp sensor witch i thought i was but wasnt sure. it was not a solenoid so i figured the only other thing it could have been was for the temp. my question is what will the computer do if the fluid gets to hot? will it shut the car down and throw a light or what?
 
My friends od on his 95 thunder bird doesnt work unless it gets revved pretty high. His dad rebuilt the tranny and it didn't fix the problem. They are pretty sure its an outside electrical component on the tranny.
 
... my question is what will the computer do if the fluid gets to hot? will it shut the car down and throw a light or what?

I don't think so, I believe it is simply just for PCM control of the shift programming and TCC.

From the manual...

Transmission Oil Temperature (TOT) Sensor

The TOT Sensor is located on the transmission body. This device is a temperature sensitive thermistor. With varying temperature the resistance value of the TOT will change. The PCM monitors the voltage across the TOT to determine the temperature of the transmission oil.

The PCM uses the TOT signal to determine if a "cold start" shift schedule is necessary.

The shift schedule is compensated when the transmission fluid temperature is cold. The PCM strategy will also prevent converter clutch engagement when the fluid is cold.
 
thats kinda what i thought it was but was not sure. when i pluged in the rest of the plugs the sensor sets on top of the rest of the wires and is real close to where it should be. it should be ok as long as it stays in the fluid to get the correct temp readings.
 
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