You know, when I wrote that reply I had said that you're NOT supposed to use ether on diesels....but than I second guessed myself and changed it. It didn't sound right when I wrote it so I thought I had it backwards, when in reality I was right but made it backwards, lol. Opps, if you read my first sentence, you can tell I changed it, lol, its contradicting.
No start issues.... and a bad sound!
- Thread starter unity
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You know, when I wrote that reply I had said that you're NOT supposed to use ether on diesels....but than I second guessed myself and changed it. It didn't sound right when I wrote it so I thought I had it backwards, when in reality I was right but made it backwards, lol. Opps, if you read my first sentence, you can tell I changed it, lol, its contradicting.
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Unity, in the other thread you said you noticed pinging when going WOT and now you are getting preignition... get that car tuned before you blow the motor!
XLRVIII , do you know why I would get this "diesel" start noise on "healthy, no starting fluid" starts?
I know starting fluid is bad, I wonder if I damaged something. It runs great. I did my front end this weekend but never got around to doing spark plugs and checking compression. I will do this later in the week I guess.
I know starting fluid is bad, I wonder if I damaged something. It runs great. I did my front end this weekend but never got around to doing spark plugs and checking compression. I will do this later in the week I guess.
Usually, that type of sound is associated with "low fuel delivery".
Could be a dieing fuel pump that is making the car extremely lean on start up.
when mine died, I had to hold the gas pedal down in order to get the car to fire up..
it took extended cranking to get the car to "fire"...
when it did, it would do that same type of "noise" because there was just barely enough fuel getting to the cylinder to "support combustion" but not enough fuel to eliminate the extremely "lean condition".
You "may" have hurt the pistons by using starting fluid, but it'd be hard to tell without doing to extensive work.
If it were me, I'd chuck a fuel pump at it.. before worrying about trying to diagnose "hurt motor".
Granted the car may "run ok", but you have to remember "lean feels like power".. so just because the car "feels ok" doesnt mean it's actually OK.
Pull a spark plug or two and see if they aren't WHITE/ due to lean condition.
XLRVIII, thanks for your help. I KNOW my fuel pump needs replacing, its stock and at WOT the car cuts out.
This has been helpful to say the least. I will get a Walbro 255 and go from there. If I had know that a fuel pump could cause this I would have done it sooner. So regardless I need a new pump, but it may be going bad anyway also causing this start issue. Makes sense.
I will still do a compression test and replace/inspect the plugs.
This has been helpful to say the least. I will get a Walbro 255 and go from there. If I had know that a fuel pump could cause this I would have done it sooner. So regardless I need a new pump, but it may be going bad anyway also causing this start issue. Makes sense.
I will still do a compression test and replace/inspect the plugs.
On my car, when I did the Walboro 255L pump it wouldn't fit directly into the bracket.. DO NOT FEAR..
I just removed one of the "tabs" from the bottom side and the pump fits the bracket just fine.
there are two tabs at the bottom of the bracket, and the pump inlet goes between these two "fingers".. there isn't sufficient room "between the fingers" for the inlet to pass thru.. "so I removed a finger", not MY finger, but the Finger/Tab on the bottom of the bracket.
If your suspecting the fuel pump.. I'd say.. GO FOR IT.
Your car will be ALOT happier with sufficient/adequate fuel pressure and volume.
www.50resto.com has them for like 109ish dollars
I just removed one of the "tabs" from the bottom side and the pump fits the bracket just fine.
there are two tabs at the bottom of the bracket, and the pump inlet goes between these two "fingers".. there isn't sufficient room "between the fingers" for the inlet to pass thru.. "so I removed a finger", not MY finger, but the Finger/Tab on the bottom of the bracket.
If your suspecting the fuel pump.. I'd say.. GO FOR IT.
Your car will be ALOT happier with sufficient/adequate fuel pressure and volume.
www.50resto.com has them for like 109ish dollars
Here is a thought from the far side.
Next time your car does the "no start" thing.
Stick your leg under the passenger side of the car right below the passenger seat and KICK the fuel tank.. then see if it starts.
{dont laugh} as that got my car "from the side of the interstate, to HOME".
Give it a shot..
IF it works..
definatley replace your fuel pump...
and dont use this "test" as a solution for the problem, because it might work one day.. and your pump might not work at ALL the next day.
Next time your car does the "no start" thing.
Stick your leg under the passenger side of the car right below the passenger seat and KICK the fuel tank.. then see if it starts.
{dont laugh} as that got my car "from the side of the interstate, to HOME".
Give it a shot..
IF it works..
definatley replace your fuel pump...
and dont use this "test" as a solution for the problem, because it might work one day.. and your pump might not work at ALL the next day.
Unity......does your car to this "knocking" noise only on startup and just after you let off of the key? I was pondering that maybe your starter came loose and it knocking around after it starts. Just a thought....
Good advise on the fuel pump thing.....I assumed that he already had a better fuel pump in it from all his upgrades. Ditto on the "kick the fuel tank" suggestion. The pump sits right in the middle of the passenger side tank, so bring yourself something you can smack it real good with if you can't get your leg under there.
Good advise on the fuel pump thing.....I assumed that he already had a better fuel pump in it from all his upgrades. Ditto on the "kick the fuel tank" suggestion. The pump sits right in the middle of the passenger side tank, so bring yourself something you can smack it real good with if you can't get your leg under there.
First on the pump. Like I said mush earlier, out of habit I prime it. It does come on every time for a couple seconds, then shut down. But XLR is making me think its weak so although it primes, fuel pressure drops as soon as the injectors fire up and it cant get the car started... But you mentioned kicking it to start it. I dont think it will matter since the car does start up, just need the starting fluid. I would think that if the pump was in a no-start state, the fluid would burn off and the car would stall. What do you think?
J... good point, I will have to watch and listen closely. A new solenoid has to go on the starter anyway, but I am pretty sure its tight. If not, that will make me happy knowing that was the knocking cause.
J... good point, I will have to watch and listen closely. A new solenoid has to go on the starter anyway, but I am pretty sure its tight. If not, that will make me happy knowing that was the knocking cause.
The starter could be a 1/16" loose and start perfectly fine because its under "load" when starting, but when its released its still actually moving, therefor causing a knocking noise....been there before. Its not likely like I said...but worth checking.
As far as the fuel pump goes.....have you checked pressure with a gauge when starting? We had a Bravada come into work that had a bad fuel pump, yet the pressure showed good, but it would need to be started with starting fluid. It would run "ok" but didn't hardly have the power it should(like your WOT lean), and when you'd shoot some fluid in the TB it would get more peppy. Even if you prime the pump, it may not be building enough pressure to fill the fuel rail, but is still enough to actually run the car.
Regardless of how your car runs, we KNOW its fuel related(like I said in the way above) so the chances of the fuel pump being bad are pretty high.
As far as the fuel pump goes.....have you checked pressure with a gauge when starting? We had a Bravada come into work that had a bad fuel pump, yet the pressure showed good, but it would need to be started with starting fluid. It would run "ok" but didn't hardly have the power it should(like your WOT lean), and when you'd shoot some fluid in the TB it would get more peppy. Even if you prime the pump, it may not be building enough pressure to fill the fuel rail, but is still enough to actually run the car.
Regardless of how your car runs, we KNOW its fuel related(like I said in the way above) so the chances of the fuel pump being bad are pretty high.
Just some more info on the shift-scrap noise. Like I said I noticed when going from reverse to drive and back, etc..
Today it was quiet out, for once, and I was playing with the shifter. I noticed it made the same sound - but a lot quieter, going from drive (in park position, so 1st I presume) to 2nd. Again, easily repeatable. Less noticable, of at all, from 2nd into 1st.
I almost wonder if there is something wrong with the 1-2 accumulator.
Today it was quiet out, for once, and I was playing with the shifter. I noticed it made the same sound - but a lot quieter, going from drive (in park position, so 1st I presume) to 2nd. Again, easily repeatable. Less noticable, of at all, from 2nd into 1st.
I almost wonder if there is something wrong with the 1-2 accumulator.
I'm trying to get ahold of our builder(outsource) but the line is busy. Called my shop and they said the 1-2 accumulator won't cause that noise. Obviously its hard to diagnose when you can hear it, but I'll see what I can find out.
Does it sound like the common Honda Drive to Reverse sound, almost like a crunch, or is it like a torn alluminum can scratching the ground? Either way, they said its most likely in the valve body.
Does it sound like the common Honda Drive to Reverse sound, almost like a crunch, or is it like a torn alluminum can scratching the ground? Either way, they said its most likely in the valve body.
Its more of a metal on ground sound. My concern now is that it does it during a manual shift, it must do it during a normal shift. Yet, everything shifts fine. If its the VB, I can live with that and get another.
It has the JMod separator plate and new accumulators and check balls as of three years ago.
It has the JMod separator plate and new accumulators and check balls as of three years ago.
I wonder if the driveshaft isn't making contact with the gas tanks metal sheild?
now I know you said it does it "sitting still", but you have to consider that when you go from a forward gear to a reverse gear the drive shaft will turn about an 1/8th of a rotation as the slack in the drivetrain is taken up.
Did that make sense?
can you get it to a Jiffy lube place or someplace with a "PIT"?
that way you can get under the car and have someone move the shifter back from R to D and back to R and you can visualize what is happening under the car?
Would be better over a pit or a lift that keeps the wheels loaded, rather than a "center lift" style that leaves the wheels hanging in the air.
you want to try and duplicate this sceanrio under the same conditions.
I hope I didn't futher confuse the issue, hope it helps.
Give it a shot!
now I know you said it does it "sitting still", but you have to consider that when you go from a forward gear to a reverse gear the drive shaft will turn about an 1/8th of a rotation as the slack in the drivetrain is taken up.
Did that make sense?
can you get it to a Jiffy lube place or someplace with a "PIT"?
that way you can get under the car and have someone move the shifter back from R to D and back to R and you can visualize what is happening under the car?
Would be better over a pit or a lift that keeps the wheels loaded, rather than a "center lift" style that leaves the wheels hanging in the air.
you want to try and duplicate this sceanrio under the same conditions.
I hope I didn't futher confuse the issue, hope it helps.
Give it a shot!
Shawn....get a stethascope! See if you can pinpoint it with that........
Just got off the phone with the builder and he said there is nothing inside the trans that will cause a scrape noise like that. The shift rod has nothing that could be bent on it inside, the parking prawl is on the end, but if that is messed up, you'd hear more of a ratcheting noise. The only thing that comes to my mind would be that the metal heat shield on the body is hitting the bracket on the outside of the shift rod, considering it makes the noise ONLY when you manually shift it.
Have you looked underneath?
Just got off the phone with the builder and he said there is nothing inside the trans that will cause a scrape noise like that. The shift rod has nothing that could be bent on it inside, the parking prawl is on the end, but if that is messed up, you'd hear more of a ratcheting noise. The only thing that comes to my mind would be that the metal heat shield on the body is hitting the bracket on the outside of the shift rod, considering it makes the noise ONLY when you manually shift it.
Have you looked underneath?
Look, I fixed it!
AND - I am an IDIOT. It was the flex plate. I guess I did not tighten the nuts that hold the torque convertor and flex plate together....... sigh, remind me next time I do a swap... I am so glad no damage was done. No more sounds at all..... I am soooooo stupid.
AND - I am an IDIOT. It was the flex plate. I guess I did not tighten the nuts that hold the torque convertor and flex plate together....... sigh, remind me next time I do a swap... I am so glad no damage was done. No more sounds at all..... I am soooooo stupid.