Oil Filter Relocation

DLF

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This is where the oil filter should have been in the first place :D

A Canton Racing Products oil filter adapter and Aeroquip -10 AN hose. The Canton adapter has a 1/8" NPT oil pressure port, so a 1/8" NPT to 1/4" NPT adapter was required to install the stock oil pressure sender. It also comes with an AN-16 water outlet, which I changed to a Meziere AN-16 ORB 1 1/4" hose adapter. Longer bolts were needed to attach the adapter as it's 25mm thick as opposed to the stock adapter which is 13mm thick. I used ARP 8mm x 1.25 stainless bolts that are 50mm UHL.

I welded a stainless steel mount for the oil filter bracket which mounts to two of the oil pan bolts. I also had to relocate the ground cable stud to the upper engine mount hole to make room for the hoses.

Then I used silicone hose and a coupler, purchased from Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies (a 1 1/4" elbow and a 1 1/2" to 1 1/4" reducing elbow) to plumb the water outlet to the thermostat housing.
 

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More pics

More pics

The large FL-1A oil filter doesn't extend below either the K-Member or the frame rails, so I think it'll be safe. I don't know if any of this will fit with the stock exhaust manifold, but it clears my stainless steel steering coupler and the Kook's headers just fine.
 

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Nice install! Very clean! The only thing that I would think about is the oil getting heated up even more with the filter being right near the headers you have. Our cars don't have oil coolers to begin with. For normal driving I'm sure it will be fine though. On my blown 97 it's actually above the removable lower bumper access panel.
 
Thanks! It looks closer in the pictures than it is, there are several inches of clearance between the filter and the headers.
 
Some people just like to show off. ;) Very nice! I really hope to see the car in person sometime soon.
 
Burnout instructions:
Tun off Traction control.
Apply light braking.
Push the throttle to the floor.
Buy new tires
Repeat as necessary.
 
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