RE: Ok.. Why? Why? Why?
This is why I say to install four switches when solenoid modding...
If I were you guys, I'd do one of two things:
1) Jack the car up with the air suspension ON (within and hour of turning the car OFF). Use one of the front jack points and let it sit for a few minutes in order for it to bleed the air out. You should hear the solenoids click, front first, then the rear. You should actually be able to see the rear drop.
OR
2) Get under the rear of the car, with the air suspension ON and within and hour of shut-down, pop the rear sensor out of its mount and pull down on it. It will start to drop the rear. When it gets down a couple of inches, put it back in its mount and it will stop.
This method takes a little bit of practice. Once you get a hold of the sensor you can remove yourself from underneath the car so just your arm is reaching in. The car will never get so low as to crush your arm. When you let go of the sensor, it will stop, it doesn't need to actually be in it's mount. Just make sure it is before you go driving down the street!
Now when you restart the car, it's gonna air itself back up and level out. Since the two airbags at the rear are essentially "connected" when the compressor is running, air flows into both of them at an equal rate.
If you have someone sitting on one side in the rear, when they get out, the rear will be uneven. I'm not sure how much of an affect this has, but it could be why some people experience the lopsided rear when doing the sensor lowering mod. It could also be because we're letting air OUT in order to get the proper stance, instead of putting air IN. There could be a difference in each bags "vent" rate for example...
Kale
