Hey all, got a quick question. My driver's side window motor has been acting up lately. What happens is when you press down, it struggles real hard to go down until it gets about 1/2 way down.. It goes up smooth and fast though. Am I looking at a new motor or just a gear kit (hopefully)?
Power Window Motor
- Thread starter WackyWRZ
- Start date
RE: Power Window Motor
It may just need lubricated...
The door window mechanism should be well lubricated to provide ease of operation. The window glass mechanism should be lubricated whenever the glass channel or window regulator is removed or whenever excessive effort is required to operate the windows. Lubricate entire surface prior to assembly with Multi-Purpose Grease (Spray) D7AZ-19584-AA (ESB-M1C106-B and ESR-M1C159-A) or equivalent. To lubricate a door window mechanism, apply an even coating of Multi-Purpose Grease (Tube) D0AZ-19584-AA (ESB-M1C93-A and ESR-M1C159-A) or equivalent to the window regulator rollers, shafts and entire length of the roller guides as illustrated by the shaded areas.
If required, you can remove the motor and test the current draw...
To test the current draw of a window motor, remove the motor and drive assembly from the vehicle as outlined.
1. Connect an external power source (power-pac or a fully charged battery) to the motor with an ammeter such as Rotunda Digital Volt-Ohmmeter 007-00001 or equivalent, in series.
2. Operate the motor and observe the current draw. The current draw for the no-load test should not exceed specification and should not fluctuate. Reversal of the motor wire connections will reverse the direction of motor rotation. Replace the motor if the current draw exceeds 5 amps at 12.8 volts.
The mechanism may need adjustment...
1. Remove door trim panel and watershield. Refer to «Section 01-05».
2. Lower door glass approximately 75mm (3 inch) from full-up position.
3. Loosen nut and washer assemblies retaining the equalizer arm to door inner panel.
4. Loosen screw retaining door glass front stabilizer.
5. With door open, place hands on each side of glass and pull glass fully into door glass run assembly at B-Pillar.
6. Apply a downward pressure on the equalizer bracket and tighten nut and washer to 10.2-13.8 N-m (7.5-10 lb-ft).
7. Set door front stabilizer so that it is slightly touching glass and tighten screw to 10.2-13.8 N-m (7.5-10 lb-ft).
8. Cycle door glass to ensure proper operation.
http://www.lincolnsclub.org/forum/user_files/476.jpg
It may just need lubricated...
The door window mechanism should be well lubricated to provide ease of operation. The window glass mechanism should be lubricated whenever the glass channel or window regulator is removed or whenever excessive effort is required to operate the windows. Lubricate entire surface prior to assembly with Multi-Purpose Grease (Spray) D7AZ-19584-AA (ESB-M1C106-B and ESR-M1C159-A) or equivalent. To lubricate a door window mechanism, apply an even coating of Multi-Purpose Grease (Tube) D0AZ-19584-AA (ESB-M1C93-A and ESR-M1C159-A) or equivalent to the window regulator rollers, shafts and entire length of the roller guides as illustrated by the shaded areas.
If required, you can remove the motor and test the current draw...
To test the current draw of a window motor, remove the motor and drive assembly from the vehicle as outlined.
1. Connect an external power source (power-pac or a fully charged battery) to the motor with an ammeter such as Rotunda Digital Volt-Ohmmeter 007-00001 or equivalent, in series.
2. Operate the motor and observe the current draw. The current draw for the no-load test should not exceed specification and should not fluctuate. Reversal of the motor wire connections will reverse the direction of motor rotation. Replace the motor if the current draw exceeds 5 amps at 12.8 volts.
The mechanism may need adjustment...
1. Remove door trim panel and watershield. Refer to «Section 01-05».
2. Lower door glass approximately 75mm (3 inch) from full-up position.
3. Loosen nut and washer assemblies retaining the equalizer arm to door inner panel.
4. Loosen screw retaining door glass front stabilizer.
5. With door open, place hands on each side of glass and pull glass fully into door glass run assembly at B-Pillar.
6. Apply a downward pressure on the equalizer bracket and tighten nut and washer to 10.2-13.8 N-m (7.5-10 lb-ft).
7. Set door front stabilizer so that it is slightly touching glass and tighten screw to 10.2-13.8 N-m (7.5-10 lb-ft).
8. Cycle door glass to ensure proper operation.
http://www.lincolnsclub.org/forum/user_files/476.jpg
cobra98lsc
Registered
RE: Power Window Motor
Check the rear guide rail or whatever you call it... the part to the right in the above pic in the above post.
The rivets that hold the metal guide rail to its mount broke off and allowed the guide to bind up against the glass
I just removed my guide for now just dont slamm the door with the window down.
Check the rear guide rail or whatever you call it... the part to the right in the above pic in the above post.
The rivets that hold the metal guide rail to its mount broke off and allowed the guide to bind up against the glass
I just removed my guide for now just dont slamm the door with the window down.
Frankie X
Registered
RE: Power Window Motor
Before you start tearing door panels off and replacing motors and tracks, try the simplest and cheapest fix first.
Ford has issued a number of TSBs and service messages all advising the same thing-- window glass channels must be lubricated regularily with a silicone based lubricant to avoid binding during travel.
Buy yourself a silicone based spray (WD 40 will do in a pinch) and saturate, I mean saturate, the felt in the window channels. The rear one is easy; the front one requires spraying downward into the door. Roll the glass up and down a few times to spread the lubricant onto the lower portions.
See what happens.
Before you start tearing door panels off and replacing motors and tracks, try the simplest and cheapest fix first.
Ford has issued a number of TSBs and service messages all advising the same thing-- window glass channels must be lubricated regularily with a silicone based lubricant to avoid binding during travel.
Buy yourself a silicone based spray (WD 40 will do in a pinch) and saturate, I mean saturate, the felt in the window channels. The rear one is easy; the front one requires spraying downward into the door. Roll the glass up and down a few times to spread the lubricant onto the lower portions.
See what happens.