question again about 3500 stall

G

Greenemachine

Registered
I have a 3000 stall converter and i have a free reburn... should I get it to 3500rpm? is the 3500 the best way to go to gain good 1/4 times and hopefully dip into the 13'S??? cause i mean i launch better but there is still a brief lag till it gets moving, even with 4:10's.I don't wanna do a smoke show when i launch but i want the best launch.
 
RE: question again about 3500 stall

ok I havn't seen any article in that dealing with stall speed converters, but maybe I missed something. Also I have never heard of a dyno to set a stall converter from the countless # of ex posts I searched through on this board as well as the last, but like i said before I could'a missed somethings. however I know a few people here know the difference between the 3 and 3500 stall converters and should be able to answer this. I originally said to mt trans shop install a 3500 stall and thought I was getting that only to find out that they only put in a 3000 because they said 3500 would be overkill in this car and a waste of money. thats what I am trying to find out. I don't have drag slicks yet so it will be on street tires that i will launch.
 
RE: question again about 3500 stall

I think what Driller was trying to say is you want to set up your stall to match your powerband, and you need to dyno your car to figure that out. Even stock Marks will react differently to the same stall, so this is difficult to recommend over the internet.
 
RE: question again about 3500 stall

[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
I think what Driller was trying to say is you want to set up your stall to match your powerband, and you need to dyno your car to figure that out. Even stock Marks will react differently to the same stall, so this is difficult to recommend over the internet.
[/div]

Thanks Eli, that's exactly what I was trying to say. :)
 
RE: question again about 3500 stall

but from what I understand isn't the higher the stall the better for launch? cause even with a 3000 stall you're not leaving at exactally 3000, but maybe only 2800, give or take. so if you had a 3500 you'd be leaving in the marks sweet spot. and about the dyno tune, ok everything would be better if you could dyno tune your car but yea if anyone wants to pay the $$ for me that would be greatly appericated, cause for 2 pulls its around $100 and to tell you the truth the last time I had my car dynoed they messed up the shift points. and no ones really fimilar with marks in this area, I called a bunch of places.
 
RE: question again about 3500 stall

How could they mess up the shift points ? ::roll:: ::roll::

If you want to do this right, get the car dynoed and figure out the "sweet spot". Seat of pants estimating proved not only once to be off. You don't need to be familiar with the marks in particular to dyno it. It seems to me like they didn't know how to dyno A car in the first place. $100 seems steep, but then again, it's only $100 to get it perfect. I was under the impression that you're looking solely to improve your track times, or at least that what you talk about all the time. Perfectly matched stall speed will help you greatly with that. Or you could just jump on the badwagon and get the 3500.
 
RE: question again about 3500 stall

You don't need a dynoTUNE to get the best stall speed - a dynometer graph will show you your best stall speed to select.
 
RE: question again about 3500 stall

I would like to test my improve my track times. I've made about 20 runs down the track so I don't just make claims. I had my dyno sheet and put it online on the other board like a year or 2 ago and a bunch of people said the #'s seemed right but they messed up the whole shift points and shut down to early, but that was my other car. thing is they closed the track near me and the next cloest track is like 2-3 hours away. so yea i dont think I'd make that trip more than once or twice a year, or spring/summer... so I'd like to get info before so when I can go back the 2nd time I can improve my runs. and i figure with all the members on here, with usefull knowledge of this car and modding it, they may have some answers that will save me $200 bucks, i'm semi smart like when I don't have $.
 
RE: question again about 3500 stall

will u drive it on the street? just think about the converter and it wont lock up till 3500 rpm so in the mean time its just in there heating up and wearing out.
 
RE: question again about 3500 stall

actually no it doesn't just sit there till 3500rpm's. it only stalls when you floor it, not in normal driving. hence why its called lock-up. and it doesn't matter cause the free re-stall was only for 90 days, not like those a-holes could'a told me that when I wanted the 3500 they put in a 3000 stall. I should take them to court tho cause thats not right. I was under the impression that I was getting something I didn't get.
 
RE: question again about 3500 stall

Don't waste your time taking them to court unless you can doccument your claim.
 
RE: question again about 3500 stall

[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
actually no it doesn't just sit there till 3500rpm's. it only stalls when you floor it, not in normal driving. hence why its called lock-up. and it doesn't matter cause the free re-stall was only for 90 days, not like those a-holes could'a told me that when I wanted the 3500 they put in a 3000 stall. I should take them to court tho cause thats not right. I was under the impression that I was getting something I didn't get.
[/div]

If you want the absolute best track time, get a 5500 stall converter. This is where your peak HP is.

Day-to-day driving will suck though...
 
RE: question again about 3500 stall

[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]actually no it doesn't just sit there till 3500rpm's. it only stalls when you floor it, not in normal driving. hence why its called lock-up. and it doesn't matter cause the free re-stall was only for 90 days, not like those a-holes could'a told me that when I wanted the 3500 they put in a 3000 stall. I should take them to court tho cause thats not right. I was under the impression that I was getting something I didn't get. [/div]If you want the absolute best track time, get a 5500 stall converter. This is where your peak HP is.Day-to-day driving will suck though...
[/div]

not to mention the rear tire replacement after 1 use.
 
RE: question again about 3500 stall

http://www.mojave-green.com/stall_speed_

A 5500 stall would make for a very slow car.

"Selection of the right stall speed for your vehicle should be matched to the engines peak torque; engines torque curve, and vehicle weight. In general, the desired stall speed would be 500-700 RPM below the engine RPM at peak torque. The speed allows a margin for application of the torque reserve on takeoff.

When selecting stall speed without having an accurate and precise engine peak torque rating, it is better to conservatively estimate the engine torque than it is to over estimate it. If you over estimate the torque output, the resulting stall speed will be lower than intended and is likely to make the vehicle slow off the line, increasing your ET."
 
RE: question again about 3500 stall

[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
http://www.mojave-green.com/stall_speed_A 5500 stall would make for a very slow car."Selection of the right stall speed for your vehicle should be matched to the engines peak torque; engines torque curve, and vehicle weight. In general, the desired stall speed would be 500-700 RPM below the engine RPM at peak torque. The speed allows a margin for application of the torque reserve on takeoff. When selecting stall speed without having an accurate and precise engine peak torque rating, it is better to conservatively estimate the engine torque than it is to over estimate it. If you over estimate the torque output, the resulting stall speed will be lower than intended and is likely to make the vehicle slow off the line, increasing your ET."
[/div]

I don't know the intricacies of converters, but your explanation makes some sense. I didn't think about it that way.
 
RE: question again about 3500 stall

[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong][div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]actually no it doesn't just sit there till 3500rpm's. it only stalls when you floor it, not in normal driving. hence why its called lock-up. and it doesn't matter cause the free re-stall was only for 90 days, not like those a-holes could'a told me that when I wanted the 3500 they put in a 3000 stall. I should take them to court tho cause thats not right. I was under the impression that I was getting something I didn't get. [/div]If you want the absolute best track time, get a 5500 stall converter. This is where your peak HP is.Day-to-day driving will suck though...[/div]not to mention the rear tire replacement after 1 use.
[/div]

That is an amusing thought, but you'd need about 800 HP to do that I think. GM made a prototype car about ten years ago that had a flywheel powerplant engine with an all composite body. The flywheels (at full charge) spun at 100,000 rpms and the car weighed about 2000 lbs. They initially tested it at a standard output, which ended up being 800 HP...which tore the tires off. They geared the power down, but like most prototypes, it died.
 
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