how come "reaction time" in drag racing is more like timing time??? The lights are always the same on every run, there's absolutely no reaction in that whatsoever. How come it's not like competitive swimming where as soon as you take your marks the gun is completely random, that was true reaction. Drag racing kinda pisses me off in that respect. if you guys wanna talk about driver's race this and that they should really fix that aspect of dragging. I can tell you one thing, there's no way in helsinki, finland that anyone I know could ever get consistent reaction times of less than .1 seconds. You can pinpoint any and all situatiosn where one driver exceeds the other driver in reaction but all it really is is timing. It'd be like playing baseball with a pitching machine on the mound.
reaction time??
- Thread starter BABORACUS
- Start date
BlackIceLSC
Registered
RE: reaction time??
There are several discussions about some forms of bracket racing switching to what is referred to as "green light racing"...meaning...ALL reaction, and no 'red lights' or false starts.
two cars line up, pre-stage...stage...and then the tree randomely selects the green light.
The main reason why the "multi-amber" christmas tree(starting line tree) was introduced in to the sport was for the sole purpose of handicap racing...that way the timing system knew if anyone commited a false start.
I could write a novel on bracket racing, and handicap starts...there are actually timing devices used in many of the "electronics-equipped" cars that cross-over to the slower car's dial-in, and build in a delay for the faster car's reaction time...they call it "cross talk".
many professional sportsman-classed racers use a delay box, a trans-brake, and a throttle stop, all referred to as "timers", or "electronics". They actually react to the TOP amber bulb on a 'full tree' to remove the guessing game, and revert back to a true 'reaction" time.
There are several discussions about some forms of bracket racing switching to what is referred to as "green light racing"...meaning...ALL reaction, and no 'red lights' or false starts.
two cars line up, pre-stage...stage...and then the tree randomely selects the green light.
The main reason why the "multi-amber" christmas tree(starting line tree) was introduced in to the sport was for the sole purpose of handicap racing...that way the timing system knew if anyone commited a false start.
I could write a novel on bracket racing, and handicap starts...there are actually timing devices used in many of the "electronics-equipped" cars that cross-over to the slower car's dial-in, and build in a delay for the faster car's reaction time...they call it "cross talk".
many professional sportsman-classed racers use a delay box, a trans-brake, and a throttle stop, all referred to as "timers", or "electronics". They actually react to the TOP amber bulb on a 'full tree' to remove the guessing game, and revert back to a true 'reaction" time.
RE: reaction time??
[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
they call it "cross talk".
[/div]
Down here that system is known as a "crossover box".
Cross TALK is where both top lights come on at the same time, so the faster car doesnt have to look at the "other side of the tree".
First time I saw X-talk in action I couldn't figure out why the faster cars tree would light the top bulb... then hang for a while before the second amber light would come on.
Took me along time to sort it out, once I figured out it was for the "box class" it all made sense.
[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
they call it "cross talk".
[/div]
Down here that system is known as a "crossover box".
Cross TALK is where both top lights come on at the same time, so the faster car doesnt have to look at the "other side of the tree".
First time I saw X-talk in action I couldn't figure out why the faster cars tree would light the top bulb... then hang for a while before the second amber light would come on.
Took me along time to sort it out, once I figured out it was for the "box class" it all made sense.
RE: reaction time??
[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
The lights are always the same on every run, there's absolutely no reaction in that whatsoever.[/div]
Incorrect..Reaction time is just that "reaction".
Whether the tree counts down with a series of amber lights or if all amber lights come on at the same time, it's STILL a person "REACTING" to the lights.
If you think "cutting a good light" is "so easy"...
I challenge you!
GO to the track, then return here and post your timeslips with 3 consecutive LOW .500 lights
LOW being .510 or below...
I will pay you 50.00 for each .500 light you cut BUT.. they all must be consecutive, meaning in order to QUALIFY. your first Reaction time must be .509 or less or .009 on a LED light system.
you show me 3 back to back .509 or .009 or better reaction times and I'll mail you $150.00!
If what you say is correct then you should be able to pocket ONE HUNDRED AND FIFTY DOLLARS!!!
{drops the guantlet and walks away}
disclaimer - Craig your brother in law is NOT ELIGIBLE!
HAHA
FWIW: to date in over 6000 passes at the dragstrip I have YET to put together three .509's or better in a ROW in competition.
Tommy "i suck at bracket racing" Douglas
[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
The lights are always the same on every run, there's absolutely no reaction in that whatsoever.[/div]
Incorrect..Reaction time is just that "reaction".
Whether the tree counts down with a series of amber lights or if all amber lights come on at the same time, it's STILL a person "REACTING" to the lights.
If you think "cutting a good light" is "so easy"...
I challenge you!
GO to the track, then return here and post your timeslips with 3 consecutive LOW .500 lights
LOW being .510 or below...
I will pay you 50.00 for each .500 light you cut BUT.. they all must be consecutive, meaning in order to QUALIFY. your first Reaction time must be .509 or less or .009 on a LED light system.
you show me 3 back to back .509 or .009 or better reaction times and I'll mail you $150.00!
If what you say is correct then you should be able to pocket ONE HUNDRED AND FIFTY DOLLARS!!!
{drops the guantlet and walks away}
disclaimer - Craig your brother in law is NOT ELIGIBLE!
HAHA
FWIW: to date in over 6000 passes at the dragstrip I have YET to put together three .509's or better in a ROW in competition.
Tommy "i suck at bracket racing" Douglas
RE: reaction time??
[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
Tommy, I think your money's safe. :+ For me, good consecutive lights are 0.0xxYou guys need to explain this cross-talk thing to me more. I'm not getting it.
[/div]
Ok where to start....
In "no electronic/footbrake" bracket racing there is no cross talk.
The tree works just like any bracket tree you have seen.
BUT.. in the Sportsman/Electronic/BOX class they are allowed to use what is called a "delay box" to control the release of the transbrake.
There are two displays on the crossover delay box, in one display you put YOUR dial in.. in the other display you enter your opponents dial in IF your opponent is the slower car.
The crossover box subtracts the difference between YOUR and HIS dial in and adds the time it takes for the tree to "drop" and that is how long the delay box WAITS before releasing the transbrake button.
For instance, your dial in is 13.00 and mine is 14.00 that is a 1 second difference, PLUS the .500 between each amber light on the tree.
Now you have your X-over programmed and you go to the line.
Rather than looking at your TOP BULB you look at your opponents top bulb, as soon as you see it.. you release your Transbrake button, the delay box counts down and releases transbrake.
With a Cross TALK system, you dont look at your opponents "top light" because with X-talk enabled BOTH top lights come ON at the same time.
That makes it alot easier for the driver to focus on "his side" of the tree.
Weird thing for the spectators that see BOTH top lights come on at the same time.. then the faster cars tree will PAUSE until the difference in the dial-in numbers has elapsed, THEN the tree functions normally.
IMHO- all this electronic mumbo jumbo is for the birds.
I like to DRIVE my car, not depending on some mathamatical equation to determine WHEN my car should leave the line.
ALSO.. It's probably FREAK me out while I was "waiting" for the transbrake to disengage.
I see alot of these people do STUPID stuff in the first 60 feet, like DRIVING ALL OVER THE TRACK, probably because they were NOT PREPARED, and got SUPRISED when the transbrake released.
Imagin' you are steering the car, and your passenger has the throttle control... your READY, but really dont know exactly WHEN your passenger is going to HIT THE GAS!
ALL of a sudden BAM the car leaves and catches you by suprise!
Not to mention the VIOLENT LAUNCH created by the transbrake, I find it all quite "unsettling"..
Which is why I'm a DYED IN THE WOOL FOOTBRAKE RACER!
Around here most people have stickers on their car that say..
"FOOTBRAKIN' is REAL RACIN'"
[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
Tommy, I think your money's safe. :+ For me, good consecutive lights are 0.0xxYou guys need to explain this cross-talk thing to me more. I'm not getting it.
[/div]
Ok where to start....
In "no electronic/footbrake" bracket racing there is no cross talk.
The tree works just like any bracket tree you have seen.
BUT.. in the Sportsman/Electronic/BOX class they are allowed to use what is called a "delay box" to control the release of the transbrake.
There are two displays on the crossover delay box, in one display you put YOUR dial in.. in the other display you enter your opponents dial in IF your opponent is the slower car.
The crossover box subtracts the difference between YOUR and HIS dial in and adds the time it takes for the tree to "drop" and that is how long the delay box WAITS before releasing the transbrake button.
For instance, your dial in is 13.00 and mine is 14.00 that is a 1 second difference, PLUS the .500 between each amber light on the tree.
Now you have your X-over programmed and you go to the line.
Rather than looking at your TOP BULB you look at your opponents top bulb, as soon as you see it.. you release your Transbrake button, the delay box counts down and releases transbrake.
With a Cross TALK system, you dont look at your opponents "top light" because with X-talk enabled BOTH top lights come ON at the same time.
That makes it alot easier for the driver to focus on "his side" of the tree.
Weird thing for the spectators that see BOTH top lights come on at the same time.. then the faster cars tree will PAUSE until the difference in the dial-in numbers has elapsed, THEN the tree functions normally.
IMHO- all this electronic mumbo jumbo is for the birds.
I like to DRIVE my car, not depending on some mathamatical equation to determine WHEN my car should leave the line.
ALSO.. It's probably FREAK me out while I was "waiting" for the transbrake to disengage.
I see alot of these people do STUPID stuff in the first 60 feet, like DRIVING ALL OVER THE TRACK, probably because they were NOT PREPARED, and got SUPRISED when the transbrake released.
Imagin' you are steering the car, and your passenger has the throttle control... your READY, but really dont know exactly WHEN your passenger is going to HIT THE GAS!
ALL of a sudden BAM the car leaves and catches you by suprise!
Not to mention the VIOLENT LAUNCH created by the transbrake, I find it all quite "unsettling"..
Which is why I'm a DYED IN THE WOOL FOOTBRAKE RACER!
Around here most people have stickers on their car that say..
"FOOTBRAKIN' is REAL RACIN'"
RE: reaction time??
[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]For me, good consecutive lights are 0.0xx [/div]Actually .0XX is a good light!
[/div]
If I'm running 0.100 or higher reaction times, I'll adjust my 'reaction' to the tree accordingly. Now if I'm running reaction times of 0.099 or less, I've found I cannot adjust my reaction to the tree without risking a redlight. What I have started doing with .099 and less lights is adjust my position in the box to compensate. With this approach I quit 'adjusting' when I get in the neighborhood of 0.030 seconds.
Of course, all this is moot if I can only get 3 runs or so in.
[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]For me, good consecutive lights are 0.0xx [/div]Actually .0XX is a good light!
[/div]
If I'm running 0.100 or higher reaction times, I'll adjust my 'reaction' to the tree accordingly. Now if I'm running reaction times of 0.099 or less, I've found I cannot adjust my reaction to the tree without risking a redlight. What I have started doing with .099 and less lights is adjust my position in the box to compensate. With this approach I quit 'adjusting' when I get in the neighborhood of 0.030 seconds.
Of course, all this is moot if I can only get 3 runs or so in.
BlackIceLSC
Registered
RE: reaction time??
JP...one of these days, I'll get through to ya, and I'll remind you that you were satisfied with a snoozing .59X light.
one of these days....mark my word. Once you start becoming deadly consistent on the tree, you'll look back and say "how could I have been happy with a .580 light?"
trust me.
I try for .520's or better CONSISTENTLY...it aint easy...but once you "learn" the tree, you will being to 'react' instead of "anticipate=guess"
staging is equally as important as when to 'go'. It is vital to put the front tire in a spot in the beams that allows you the confidence to hit the tree with both fists...
any succesful sportsman racer will preach this...you CANNOT change YOUR reaction...you have to change the CAR'S reaction.
example...lets say you "go" when you first see the third yellow begin to illuminate. But your car wont cut better than a .610 light. So YOU try to compensate for that by going a little realier...you just lost. Here's why:
it's called a "reaction time" for that single reason. REACTION. YOU have to react...not guess...not count...not "think" you know when to go...you have to 'react" to the tree....well, waiting for the second yellow to go out, isnt "reacting"...it's guessing, or shooting for the tree...you can do it, but it's impossible to be consitient about it. Some people ask me "when do you leave off the tree in your car?"
did you see my time slip? THAT was after NOT racing my car for over 14 months, and not actually driving down the strip in over a year, AND that was after not racing that particular track in over 6 years....
yet I just put the car in the beams, and took a shot at the tree....LEFT LANE.
http://www.markviii.org/~firenice/sactots2.JPG
it aint a .530, but a .547 helped me in the "heads up" race against Todd's 97 LSC...
I have a time slip of the last time I raced our Dart...I took it out on a saturday morning, burn out, staged shallow, and rolled the dice .502 light. I didnt do any worse than .530 all day....I am not bragging...I am trying to show that once you "find" that spot, you can drill the tree time and time again, and the only thing that will change your R/T is the car's ability to react...slight wheel spin, or hooking up well...
so...one of these days, I will share with you the comments that were drilled in to my head by some of the most respected bracket racers in the country...time slips are proof...once you find your SPOT on the tree, and YOUR spot where to stage the car, you WILL bring home .530's or better consistently...and those R/T's will win 90% of the races....you'll see....that's all I can say... you'll see.
JP...one of these days, I'll get through to ya, and I'll remind you that you were satisfied with a snoozing .59X light.
one of these days....mark my word. Once you start becoming deadly consistent on the tree, you'll look back and say "how could I have been happy with a .580 light?"
trust me.
I try for .520's or better CONSISTENTLY...it aint easy...but once you "learn" the tree, you will being to 'react' instead of "anticipate=guess"
staging is equally as important as when to 'go'. It is vital to put the front tire in a spot in the beams that allows you the confidence to hit the tree with both fists...
any succesful sportsman racer will preach this...you CANNOT change YOUR reaction...you have to change the CAR'S reaction.
example...lets say you "go" when you first see the third yellow begin to illuminate. But your car wont cut better than a .610 light. So YOU try to compensate for that by going a little realier...you just lost. Here's why:
it's called a "reaction time" for that single reason. REACTION. YOU have to react...not guess...not count...not "think" you know when to go...you have to 'react" to the tree....well, waiting for the second yellow to go out, isnt "reacting"...it's guessing, or shooting for the tree...you can do it, but it's impossible to be consitient about it. Some people ask me "when do you leave off the tree in your car?"
did you see my time slip? THAT was after NOT racing my car for over 14 months, and not actually driving down the strip in over a year, AND that was after not racing that particular track in over 6 years....
yet I just put the car in the beams, and took a shot at the tree....LEFT LANE.
http://www.markviii.org/~firenice/sactots2.JPG
it aint a .530, but a .547 helped me in the "heads up" race against Todd's 97 LSC...
I have a time slip of the last time I raced our Dart...I took it out on a saturday morning, burn out, staged shallow, and rolled the dice .502 light. I didnt do any worse than .530 all day....I am not bragging...I am trying to show that once you "find" that spot, you can drill the tree time and time again, and the only thing that will change your R/T is the car's ability to react...slight wheel spin, or hooking up well...
so...one of these days, I will share with you the comments that were drilled in to my head by some of the most respected bracket racers in the country...time slips are proof...once you find your SPOT on the tree, and YOUR spot where to stage the car, you WILL bring home .530's or better consistently...and those R/T's will win 90% of the races....you'll see....that's all I can say... you'll see.