rearend

C

cruisincapri80

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So, apparently i need to tear into the rear end in my car wondering what parts are worth buyin and installing at this point and what are a waste of time and money. Will be ordering 4.10's a driveshaft and some sort of locker when my other car comes back from the shop. I want to do this and be done with it so the motor and trans mods can start next. I was wondering whatto do about the half shafts that have to be worn out after 200k and then what boshings or other things should be replaced while I'm there.
Thanks a bunch in advance. This site has been a huge help and without it i would have given up on this car long ago.
 
RE: rearend

I may be biased. :+

I would first ask what the intended use is.

For infrequent track use, I would suggest a simple Ford traction-lok setup for the differential. Cheap enough used and easily rebuilt.

Here's what I bought when getting 4.10s...

1 M-4209-G410 - 4.10 ring and pinion
1 M-4210-B - Installation kit
2 axle seals
2 axle bearings
2 axle nuts
1 M-4700-B - track-lok rebuild kit

Then you need gear oil, friction modifier and speedo gear.

You can purchase half-shafts from Raxles.

My '93 currently has 4.30 gears with a Detroit Truetrac limited slip gear type differential and stock half-shafts.
 
RE: rearend

Will a trak-lok out of a straight axle 8.8 work? I've read that it needs machining to work and that you can put it right in. what about all the bushings and everything else back there. I rebuilt the front end but have yet to do anything with the back other than brakes. I know it needs the upper shock mounts and I'm guessin a whole slew of other parts. I was kind of wondering if any kits existed that include everything. Also i read somewhere the mmx driveshaft was no longer available any success with the other driveshafts?
 
RE: rearend

[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
Will a trak-lok out of a straight axle 8.8 work? I've read that it needs machining to work and that you can put it right in.
[/div]

Let's answer one topic at a time. ;)

The differential(trak-lok) from a straight axle 8.8 Ford rear will work with or without modification, you decide.

The Mark VIII halfshaft has a groove cut into the splines of the axle near the end of the shaft that slides into the differential. There is a circular clip(NOT a "C" clip) fits this groove. While sliding into the differential, this clip compresses into the groove as the shaft is slid in until it exits the other side. The "IRS" differentials have the inside edge of the spider gear tapered to allow the same compression of the clip upon removal of the shaft, but it does provide resistance in the shaft removal.

With me so far?

On the straight axle differentials, the inside if the spider gear is not tapered and is square shouldered. If the halfshaft is installed with the circular clip, one of two things happen... either the clip cannot be compressed upon removal because of no taper and the halfshaft cannot be extricated or the clip does not slide all the way through to the inside and it is not holding the halfshaft in the differential.

So if you use the regular 8.8 differential(NON-IRS), technically you need tapered side gears for the halfshafts or you need to modify the side gears by machining a taper on the inboard side...

OR...

you simply remove the circular clips from the halfshaft before installation. What holds the halfshaft in? Examine the complete assembly after the hub is put back on. The hub is attached to the halfshaft with a locking nut. The halfshaft cannot exit the hub. The hub is fixed to the car with the upper/lower control arms. IMHO the halfshaft is not at any risk escaping the differential unless you routinely 'catch air' with the rear wheels.
 
RE: rearend

Thanks for the clarification. Sounds like i'll just remove the "circular" clips and install my axles sounds liek a way to save a little money on a pretty expensive project. The car has yet to make it to the strip but hopefully this summer after a few mods i'll get it out there. The nearest strips is a couple hours away or i def would be there alot more. so the only thing left to figure out is which drive shaft to order and what to do about all the misc bushings and other things back there. I'm looking at starting at the back of the car and making my way to the front going through everything as I go. Thanks for the info.
 
RE: rearend

Hmmm.. nice write-up. With a standard T-Lock, I left my clips in, and the half shafts slide right back out. So I guess the clips remain compressed inside the differential side gears, and don't catch on the far side of the side gears. No vibe issues, so I guess/hope all is well. I did have to press on the hubs to install the control arm bolts.. felt "springy". I'm guessing there must be a spring inside the CV joints to help keep them centered. One more thing.. if you buy rebuilt half shafts (~$100 each), be sure they're Ford original. There's some aftermarket half shafts out there with smaller shaft diameter and obviously inferior sized CV joints. Could be T-Bird SC shafts are the strongest.

mark
 
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