Replacing control arms?

[sal329]

Ok so last night work was slow so I took my car in the shop up on the lift and went to replace the front control arms. Started on the driver side as I heard this was the biggest pain. I took the fender liner off looking for the access hole, there was a hole in the fender but I could not get enough room in there to allow me to actually move the socket wresnch at all. So I went at it from the top, it was a pain but it came off. Then I tried taking the arm off, then realized the strut needs to come out. Took that off. Well finally the old arm was off. Now to get the lower one out. I was told these are easy so I fiugred I was in the clear.
Well Disconnected the sway bar end link, then tried to remove the nut that holds the strut rod in, NO luck at all. After trying for a while I decied to call it a night as the techs were all gettin ready to leave it was almost 2 am. Well the upper arm is replaced. How the heck do I do the lower arms? Is there a write up anywhere? Would a haynes manual have the info I need? I could order one from the local Advanced.

Thank everyone

 

[budpytko]

Did you do a search? Did you check out the help sections available from the main page? I'm not saying they ARE there, I am just suggesting to look.

 

[J]

I'll do a write up on it today for you....I got pictures from when I did mine. You need an airgun to get the lower strut rod off at the control arm, and you need to loosen the inside nut before trying to remove the front one on the portion of the strut rod that goes to the K member.

 

[sal329]

I have access to a lift and air tools. I work at a dealer (not Ford), I figured this would be easier then doin it in the driveway like I have heard many people on the boards doin. No dive here lol. I even had 2 techs tryin to help (not that they are the brightest ones). I would appreciate the write up big time.

 

[J]

Ok.....on its way.

 

[J]

**All pictures of the driver's side.**


Ok....first you get the car ready to tear down.....wheels/lift/tools.

Next you remove the sway bar end links at the spindle....

Next you remove the lower strut bolt.....

Next you loosen the lower control arm nut at the lower ball joint.....leave it partially on so you don't mess up the threads. Next you take a hammer to the part of the spindle that the ball joint slips through and use a pry bar to pry down on the lower control arm and up on the spindle, essentially separating the two. Or you can use the ball joint fork tool, but that always tears the boots.

Use the hammer to hit right below where the nut is...see the spot where it was hit previously and notice the balljoint is loosend?

Next loosen the lower control arm nut at the K member...

Leave the bolt in until everything is loose....

Next take off the rubber steering stop......

And remove the big nut on the rear of the strut rod arm pictured here...(lower right)

Now...if you're not going to replace the strut rod bushings at the K member, don't worry about the rest of this. To replace the lower control arm, now you can just remove the lower control arm bolt to the K member, and swing it down and pull it off the strut rod. If you are doing the bushings....continue below.

Now the tough part....

Loosen the inside nut on the inner part of the strut rod where it attaches to the K member, its too the rear of the K member on each side. You only need to loosen it a half of a turn, this will relieve the pressure on the outer nut allowing you to remove it. This is a picture of the outer nut, the inner will be behind the K member on the right side of the picture....

Now you should have the strut rod out, and can replace the lower control arm and strut rod bushings(I hope you're doing those too.)

You'll need to reduce the size of the metal sleeves they give you with the bushing kits, just compare the sleeves to your old ones and you'll see. I had to cut off about 1/4".

In order to get the front bushings out, you will need to grind the inner portion of the metal washer out, and pry the bushing apart.....

Started grinding....see the inner ring right by the hole, you need to grind off the little washer around that ring in order to release the big sleeve in the rod slips though....

Prying......had to grind way more, lol...

Now, the sleeve needs to be cut in the front also, once you've done this, put it all back together leaving all the bolts loose until you have all the parts installed.

After its all done, get an alignment, PRONTO.

 

[sal329]

Whhat do u use to grind the metal washer?

 

[sal329]

Ohh and GREAT write up I can see where I messed up lol. I will tackle this job once again and complete it lol.

 

[sal329]

And remove the big nut on the rear of the strut rod arm pictured here...(lower right)
[IMG]http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n154/JesterLM/Crap/FrontControlArms007.jpg

.

Any pointers on removing that nut through the control arm, that connects the strut rod? I tried to loosen mine last night and it was not workin at all.

 

[J]

Any pointers on removing that nut through the control arm, that connects the strut rod? I tried to loosen mine last night and it was not workin at all.

I just used my impact gun...1200 ft lbs in reverse.

 

[95blklsc]

Might want to try and heat it up with a torch. It has always been a lifesaver for me in the past with removing tough bolts!

 

[budpytko]

On mine, I just doused it with PB Blaster 2 days before the time I was going to work on it and again the night before.....no sweat with a BFWrench.

 

[J]

PB Blaster is the best! I'd be careful about putting heat on this one, I believe the nut has some threadlocker stuff on it and it may make it harder to remove.....but on the other hand, the nut may expand enough.

 

[frankjc]

This is making me wonder if I should cut the sleeve on my strut rod to LCA bushings. I have some "clunkage" going on, not sure what it is yet, but those bushings do not seem tight enough to me. I am sure I don't have the old sleeves, I had to destroy them to get them off, because of rust, %$@# New England weather does a number on cars, especially being near the ocean.

 

[Roadboss]

Breaker bar and floor jack, let the weight of the car help you break the nut free. A heavy duty adjustable on the wrench flats of the bar.

 

[budpytko]

This is making me wonder if I should cut the sleeve on my strut rod to LCA bushings. I have some "clunkage" going on, not sure what it is yet, but those bushings do not seem tight enough to me. I am sure I don't have the old sleeves, I had to destroy them to get them off, because of rust, %$@# New England weather does a number on cars, especially being near the ocean.

Careful...at one time there were a batch of "oversize" bushings sold that could NOT let you tighten the nut correctly!!!! You may have them. If you even have ANY of the old ones, ,measure, measure, measure again!!!!

 

[frankjc]

I definately think it is not getting tight enough.

 

[budpytko]

The rubber part was okay but the steel sleeve was too long.

 

[J]

Read my write up man....I put it in there that you'll have to cut off 1/4 of an inch of the metal sleeve. :confused-red:

 

[J]

This is making me wonder if I should cut the sleeve on my strut rod to LCA bushings.

Careful...at one time there were a batch of "oversize" bushings

I definately think it is not getting tight enough.

You'll need to reduce the size of the metal sleeves they give you with the bushing kits, just compare the sleeves to your old ones and you'll see. I had to cut off about 1/4".

Read my write up man....I put it in there that you'll have to cut off 1/4 of an inch of the metal sleeve. :confused-red:

I was getting a clunk when driving in reverse and tapping on the brakes. I had to remove 1/4 inch off of the strut rod to K member sleaves.