Replacing sway bar end links

V

ViiiKiller

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Hi, I am about to replace both sway bar links because they are toast and they make squeaking noises at low speeds in parking lots. When replacing them is it easier to have the front end jacked up or both wheels on the ground. I would like to do this today and it looks fairly easy and straight forward.
 
Man, just finished replacing both sway bar links, it was no picnic. I had to soak the part that goes into the sway bar with PB Blaster and keep tapping on the sway bar to finally break the "stiction". By the time I removed both links, they were in shredds, with innards everywhere. The new links were so nice and tight with a slight S shape to them instead of the straight, original ones. Now for a nice test drive, I'm pretty sure the front end won't be so squirrelly at speed like before. I also need to replace both upper and lower arms. I had to remove the wheels for much more access and hammer swinging room which was very limited.
 
Oh man, my Mark Viii is transformed! It rides so nice and smooth and no embarassing squeaks in parking lots. In addition, when I am doing 75 mph and brake hard, it stays straight and doesn't dart left and then right, which was scary as heck. So happy right now. Can't wait to replace UCAs and LCAs.
 
...make sure you replace the bushings that connect the strut rod to the sub-frame, and you will have a new front end! They make a huge difference!
 
Replace both front and rear sets as you will have it all apart anyhow and they aren't that expensive. These are also responsible for holding the front suspension in position also, so don't forget a 4 wheel alignment.
 
its awesome driving a mark with a trashed front end , then you replace it and rebuild the whole thing, and its like getting a piece for the first time!!!!! such an awesome feeling with new suspension!
 
Wirelessly posted (SAMSUNG-SGH-A877/A877UCID3 SHP/VPP/R5 NetFront/3.5 SMM-MMS/1.2.0 profile/MIDP-2.1 configuration/CLDC-1.1)

Where did you get the endlinks? and how much?
 
I bought them from Autozone for $88 a pair. They were Duralast brand with lifetime warranty. They also had a slight S bend in them and both had the same part numbers but one of them had totally sealed boots that were secured by wire and the other one had Zerk fittings on them with boots that were just on there. They Moog too but they were not in stock so I bought the Duralast because of the lifetime guarantee, can't go wrong there.

If you do this job, I'd recommend spraying the old links down with PB Blaster the night before, it'll make the job a lot easier.
 
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