Hello out there in LOD land! Here's the scoop. Occasionally after rain my door locks develop a mind of their own and lock and/or unlock. This usually stops on its' own accord once they dry out. Lately, they have been doing this without rain or wetting. It has rained hard for a week or so non-stop here in the Atlanta area, but has had enough time to do its' customary drying out. What gives? Anyone else with this problem, did you replace the module? Can the module be watersealed so it doesn't happen again? If not water, what else can cause this to happen?
self-activating door locks
- Thread starter mag1119
- Start date
Frankie X
Registered
RE: self-activating door locks
More information would help a lot here.
What year is your Mark? I've read your other posts about coil problems, so I assume it's '97 or'98, but there's differences in the harnesses and modules between years.
When does this problem occur? Do you only see it happen when the car is parked, or do the locks pop up and down while you're driving?
Do both locks go up and down or only the driver's door?
Is the door ajar light on at the wrong times?
Do the interior lights come on when the locks start doing the crazy thing?
On 2nd Gen. Marks, the lock functions are multiplexed through the DDM (Driver's Door Module), the SCIL (Steering Column/Ignition/Lighting Module), some Instrument Cluster circuits, and finally, the PCM controls some of the Security/Anti-theft functions.
I don't think you realize how big a question you're asking. It needs to be narrowed down!
More information would help a lot here.
What year is your Mark? I've read your other posts about coil problems, so I assume it's '97 or'98, but there's differences in the harnesses and modules between years.
When does this problem occur? Do you only see it happen when the car is parked, or do the locks pop up and down while you're driving?
Do both locks go up and down or only the driver's door?
Is the door ajar light on at the wrong times?
Do the interior lights come on when the locks start doing the crazy thing?
On 2nd Gen. Marks, the lock functions are multiplexed through the DDM (Driver's Door Module), the SCIL (Steering Column/Ignition/Lighting Module), some Instrument Cluster circuits, and finally, the PCM controls some of the Security/Anti-theft functions.
I don't think you realize how big a question you're asking. It needs to be narrowed down!
RE: self-activating door locks
It's probably the Driver's Door Module (DDM) getting wet. As is stated, you probably have a '97 or a '98 Mark VIII, which is known as a Generation 2 Mark. A Generation 1 Mark would be the '93 - '96 year cars. Gen 1's have the door lock module in the trunk and usually well away from water.
The Driver's Door Module is in the driver's door (fancy that) and controls mainly the door locks. It controls and is connected to the door lock switches and the keyless entry keypad switch assembly which is mounted on the driver's door handle. It is unclear by the EVTM whether the remote keyless entry is handled by the DDM or the SCIL (Steering Column/Ignition/Lighting) module. The SCIL module usually sends signals to the DDM to lock the doors when you are going 3 mph, for example, but for main control of the locks, it's the DDM. The SCIL module is also mounted in a place that is hard to reach by water. (Fully open the instrument panel glove box and it is on the right hand side).
I think the best course of action would be to remove the DDM which is a very simple thing to do and get it waterproofed. Disconnect the battery ground connection first (8mm socket if stock). Remove the driver's door panel (don't forget to remove the small light on the lower left side of the door. It just prys out. There is a screw that has to be removed in there). There is also a screw in the center below the armrest with a plug that also has to be removed. Disconnect any connectors and remove any switches that are in the way of removing the panel and the module is on the top right side. After you have removed it, take the circuit board out of the plastic case. See if it is wet in any area. Dry it if it is, using a paper towel and a hair dryer. If it was wet, then after drying, take some rubber cement and coat the whole circuit board (top and bottom) in a light coat of the cement, leaving the connections dry. After the rubber cement has dried, put it back in the plastic case and re-install it in the car. When you do, make sure the connectors are waterproof too. Wrap them in some plastic wrap and seal them with duct tape to keep the water out. It may be easier to connect the connectors and waterproof them before mounting the DDM. Re-connect the battery ground connection. This should help keep your locks from dancing.
I had a heater blower problem with water getting into the blower speed controller module and used this proceedure to cure the problem. The blower seemed to have a mind of its own. Starting and stopping whenever it wanted. After a post, I found out that water was getting through the seal between the outside air intake and the A/C - heater plenum. The water would get inside and drip down the outside of the blower housing into the speed control module. Since it is mounted flat, it would fill up with water and the blower would act up. After replacing the module, I decided to waterproof it as above and have had no problems with it over 2 years now.
It's probably the Driver's Door Module (DDM) getting wet. As is stated, you probably have a '97 or a '98 Mark VIII, which is known as a Generation 2 Mark. A Generation 1 Mark would be the '93 - '96 year cars. Gen 1's have the door lock module in the trunk and usually well away from water.
The Driver's Door Module is in the driver's door (fancy that) and controls mainly the door locks. It controls and is connected to the door lock switches and the keyless entry keypad switch assembly which is mounted on the driver's door handle. It is unclear by the EVTM whether the remote keyless entry is handled by the DDM or the SCIL (Steering Column/Ignition/Lighting) module. The SCIL module usually sends signals to the DDM to lock the doors when you are going 3 mph, for example, but for main control of the locks, it's the DDM. The SCIL module is also mounted in a place that is hard to reach by water. (Fully open the instrument panel glove box and it is on the right hand side).
I think the best course of action would be to remove the DDM which is a very simple thing to do and get it waterproofed. Disconnect the battery ground connection first (8mm socket if stock). Remove the driver's door panel (don't forget to remove the small light on the lower left side of the door. It just prys out. There is a screw that has to be removed in there). There is also a screw in the center below the armrest with a plug that also has to be removed. Disconnect any connectors and remove any switches that are in the way of removing the panel and the module is on the top right side. After you have removed it, take the circuit board out of the plastic case. See if it is wet in any area. Dry it if it is, using a paper towel and a hair dryer. If it was wet, then after drying, take some rubber cement and coat the whole circuit board (top and bottom) in a light coat of the cement, leaving the connections dry. After the rubber cement has dried, put it back in the plastic case and re-install it in the car. When you do, make sure the connectors are waterproof too. Wrap them in some plastic wrap and seal them with duct tape to keep the water out. It may be easier to connect the connectors and waterproof them before mounting the DDM. Re-connect the battery ground connection. This should help keep your locks from dancing.
I had a heater blower problem with water getting into the blower speed controller module and used this proceedure to cure the problem. The blower seemed to have a mind of its own. Starting and stopping whenever it wanted. After a post, I found out that water was getting through the seal between the outside air intake and the A/C - heater plenum. The water would get inside and drip down the outside of the blower housing into the speed control module. Since it is mounted flat, it would fill up with water and the blower would act up. After replacing the module, I decided to waterproof it as above and have had no problems with it over 2 years now.
Frankie X
Registered
RE: self-activating door locks
Mark, If you have access to an OBDII scan tool that can talk to all multiplexed modules, both the DDM and SCIL are capable of generating fault codes and holding them in memory. That's one choice.
Mr. John has the right idea. The DDM is in a very vulnerable location, so sealing it is always a good plan, but you mentioned that the problem is now occurring without wetting.
I asked you those questions because I've seen a large number of bizarre things with multiplexed locks:
Water entry into the keyless entry pad on the door is very common. If this is the case, the doors have a greater likelihood of erratically locking than unlocking. The interior lights (illuminated entry function) will probably come on when not demanded. If the water allows an unlock to happen, it's usually only the driver's door.
The inside plastic of the lock switches themselves distort with age and high ambient temperatures, allowing the contact points to just...barely... touch without being pressed. Besides the water clue, can the problem sometimes appear to be related to bumps or jarring of the car while driving?
On that note, the main function ground for the DDM is G300 (an eyelet-and-bolt ground), which is located behind the driver's kick panel where it joins the step plate. Look for looseness or corrosion; if that ground is broken and then re-connected, sometimes the locks will snap up and down.
Look carefully at the convolute harness that goes between the doors and the body. Be sure both ends are properly sealed.
On a few occasions, I've seen internal malfunctions in the SCIL related to Autolocks. If this is the case, the locks don't often go up and down. You'll just hear the actuators in the doors pulling down: lock, lock, lock, repeatedly. This will set SCIL codes.
I hope this helps. Between the bunch of us, we should be able to solve your problem!
Mark, If you have access to an OBDII scan tool that can talk to all multiplexed modules, both the DDM and SCIL are capable of generating fault codes and holding them in memory. That's one choice.
Mr. John has the right idea. The DDM is in a very vulnerable location, so sealing it is always a good plan, but you mentioned that the problem is now occurring without wetting.
I asked you those questions because I've seen a large number of bizarre things with multiplexed locks:
Water entry into the keyless entry pad on the door is very common. If this is the case, the doors have a greater likelihood of erratically locking than unlocking. The interior lights (illuminated entry function) will probably come on when not demanded. If the water allows an unlock to happen, it's usually only the driver's door.
The inside plastic of the lock switches themselves distort with age and high ambient temperatures, allowing the contact points to just...barely... touch without being pressed. Besides the water clue, can the problem sometimes appear to be related to bumps or jarring of the car while driving?
On that note, the main function ground for the DDM is G300 (an eyelet-and-bolt ground), which is located behind the driver's kick panel where it joins the step plate. Look for looseness or corrosion; if that ground is broken and then re-connected, sometimes the locks will snap up and down.
Look carefully at the convolute harness that goes between the doors and the body. Be sure both ends are properly sealed.
On a few occasions, I've seen internal malfunctions in the SCIL related to Autolocks. If this is the case, the locks don't often go up and down. You'll just hear the actuators in the doors pulling down: lock, lock, lock, repeatedly. This will set SCIL codes.
I hope this helps. Between the bunch of us, we should be able to solve your problem!
RE: self-activating door locks
Thank you once again, gentlemen!
I now know where to begin. Frankie, the lights or anything else aren't acting in concert with this culprit. When I lock the car, sometimes it will unlock immediately, sometimes I will play "lock and unlock - gotcha!!" with it, and sometimes it will stay locked for hours without unlocking. Sometimes while driving, the autolock will lock the doors, only to have them unlock, or keep going through this series for a couple of miles and then it locks and stays.(until I get out and try to lock the doors!)
However, this morning when I looked at the car, it was still doing the dance, and the front bags were slammed. I started the car and of course it raised as normal, so I shut the system off to see if it was leaking air. It has remained up on all fours, so at this point I don't think it has a leak. This is the first time the car has continued to lock-unlock all night, what has happened in the past is it would unlock itself and just stay unlocked. I imagine the all night action somehow caused the bags to vent, am I right?
Thank you once again, gentlemen!
I now know where to begin. Frankie, the lights or anything else aren't acting in concert with this culprit. When I lock the car, sometimes it will unlock immediately, sometimes I will play "lock and unlock - gotcha!!" with it, and sometimes it will stay locked for hours without unlocking. Sometimes while driving, the autolock will lock the doors, only to have them unlock, or keep going through this series for a couple of miles and then it locks and stays.(until I get out and try to lock the doors!)
However, this morning when I looked at the car, it was still doing the dance, and the front bags were slammed. I started the car and of course it raised as normal, so I shut the system off to see if it was leaking air. It has remained up on all fours, so at this point I don't think it has a leak. This is the first time the car has continued to lock-unlock all night, what has happened in the past is it would unlock itself and just stay unlocked. I imagine the all night action somehow caused the bags to vent, am I right?
Frankie X
Registered
RE: self-activating door locks
Wow!! More and more interesting!
I hate dealing with intermittants when I'm at work because the only sure way of diagnosis is to actually do any required testing while the problem is actually occurring. In this case, the car is very far away and I'm forced to rely only upon my crystal ball!
If it's that repetitious, I doubt it's the keypad.
Mrjohn may very well be right about the DDM, but if it kept the locks activating all night, water and/or corrosion damage has probably gone too far; replace this one then seal the new one.
Repeated action usually indicates distorted lock switches to me. Here's an experiment to try: if the locks begin a consistant up/down that gives you some time to play, pop the switchplates off the doors and unplug each lock switch and see if the action stops.
I asked you if the door ajar light ever comes on. I ask again.
The reason? The air suspension could be a clue-- it does a height check every time it sees a door open and close. This is triggered by the "door ajar" switches in the latches. If they have become stuck in their notorious "halfway" position, you may get this action:
VDM (Vehicle Dynamic Module) gets an Ajar signal from the SCIL and does a height check, performing a test vent.
Whoop! Here's another one! Check and vent.
Another! Check and vent.
Check and vent, check and vent... all night.
Also, if the SCIL is unsure of door status (within its AntiTheft programming) it wil be unsure of what lock position to allow.
This could be an easy and free repair. Just hose both door latch openings with WD-40 to free up the switches. See LOD's Tech pages for the complete procedure.
We still could have some weird ground short within the harnesses that would require hands on testing to find, but let's all stay optimistic!!
Wow!! More and more interesting!
I hate dealing with intermittants when I'm at work because the only sure way of diagnosis is to actually do any required testing while the problem is actually occurring. In this case, the car is very far away and I'm forced to rely only upon my crystal ball!
If it's that repetitious, I doubt it's the keypad.
Mrjohn may very well be right about the DDM, but if it kept the locks activating all night, water and/or corrosion damage has probably gone too far; replace this one then seal the new one.
Repeated action usually indicates distorted lock switches to me. Here's an experiment to try: if the locks begin a consistant up/down that gives you some time to play, pop the switchplates off the doors and unplug each lock switch and see if the action stops.
I asked you if the door ajar light ever comes on. I ask again.
The reason? The air suspension could be a clue-- it does a height check every time it sees a door open and close. This is triggered by the "door ajar" switches in the latches. If they have become stuck in their notorious "halfway" position, you may get this action:
VDM (Vehicle Dynamic Module) gets an Ajar signal from the SCIL and does a height check, performing a test vent.
Whoop! Here's another one! Check and vent.
Another! Check and vent.
Check and vent, check and vent... all night.
Also, if the SCIL is unsure of door status (within its AntiTheft programming) it wil be unsure of what lock position to allow.
This could be an easy and free repair. Just hose both door latch openings with WD-40 to free up the switches. See LOD's Tech pages for the complete procedure.
We still could have some weird ground short within the harnesses that would require hands on testing to find, but let's all stay optimistic!!
RE: self-activating door locks
Hello Frankie, and Mr. John,
Update: I think both of you have the solution for me. I started and raised the car to its' parked position and then turned the air-ride system off. Bags held, no problem. Did the same from simple raised position, bags held. No other sign of them acting up as of now. The interior lights are NOT coming on while the locks' are doing their thing, no "door ajar" signals either, but I decided to try the old spray the lubricant in there anyhow, just to be hopeful!! To my joy, it worked!! Stopped the problem immediately, for about 10 hours then it started again. I knew from prior episodes using the spray fix (when I was getting door ajar signals) sometimes it takes a little while to fully loosen up and several door closings, so I did that. It works as a temporary fix, but then comes back so I figure at the least, the switch in there is probably gone, even though I'm not getting door ajar signals.
It still isn't throwing codes, but I will have it on a Ford OBD II scanner by this weekend. For the most part, it isn't dancing open and closed any more, just opening itself up every now and again. For instance, it stayed locked and parked all night last night with no problem. If I shut the driver's door firmly (sometimes after playing lock/unlock with it until it stops trying to do it right in my face, it seems to read "closed" and ceases for awhile. Other than overnight, this lasts for the few hours I am shopping, or out of the car. I will see what happens overnight again tonight.
If it isn't the sensor/switch in the door (or that alone) I will find out when I troubleshoot the system, as you and Mr. John suggest. I will have the grounds checked, and check the SCIL module too. hopefully I can isolate the problem. Part of me wants to just replace the DDM and go from there, but if it isn't that, replacing it would be a waste. Question: would dielectric seal the water out successfully, the cement seems a one shot deal as far as not messing it up, and I'm admittedly not the best DIY'er around. You know, it may just be that all three parts need replacing (DDM, switch/sensor, and SCIL) but I'm hoping it is just that silly switch. Thank you gentlemen, I will let you know how it comes out.
Hello Frankie, and Mr. John,
Update: I think both of you have the solution for me. I started and raised the car to its' parked position and then turned the air-ride system off. Bags held, no problem. Did the same from simple raised position, bags held. No other sign of them acting up as of now. The interior lights are NOT coming on while the locks' are doing their thing, no "door ajar" signals either, but I decided to try the old spray the lubricant in there anyhow, just to be hopeful!! To my joy, it worked!! Stopped the problem immediately, for about 10 hours then it started again. I knew from prior episodes using the spray fix (when I was getting door ajar signals) sometimes it takes a little while to fully loosen up and several door closings, so I did that. It works as a temporary fix, but then comes back so I figure at the least, the switch in there is probably gone, even though I'm not getting door ajar signals.
It still isn't throwing codes, but I will have it on a Ford OBD II scanner by this weekend. For the most part, it isn't dancing open and closed any more, just opening itself up every now and again. For instance, it stayed locked and parked all night last night with no problem. If I shut the driver's door firmly (sometimes after playing lock/unlock with it until it stops trying to do it right in my face, it seems to read "closed" and ceases for awhile. Other than overnight, this lasts for the few hours I am shopping, or out of the car. I will see what happens overnight again tonight.
If it isn't the sensor/switch in the door (or that alone) I will find out when I troubleshoot the system, as you and Mr. John suggest. I will have the grounds checked, and check the SCIL module too. hopefully I can isolate the problem. Part of me wants to just replace the DDM and go from there, but if it isn't that, replacing it would be a waste. Question: would dielectric seal the water out successfully, the cement seems a one shot deal as far as not messing it up, and I'm admittedly not the best DIY'er around. You know, it may just be that all three parts need replacing (DDM, switch/sensor, and SCIL) but I'm hoping it is just that silly switch. Thank you gentlemen, I will let you know how it comes out.
Frankie X
Registered
RE: self-activating door locks
Mark, the SCIL is a very expensive item!!
Not only that, you can't just buy one and plug it in. It contains data relating to your vehicle's ID, options, and operating parameters (this is referred to as the "VID Block"). A very specific scan tool must draw that data out of your old module and transfer it into the new one or not much will work and the new SCIL will spew "Configuration Error" codes.
Let's not go there unless absolutely necessary and complete diagnosis has proven you need it.
For now, stick with the switches and the DDM, as Mrjohn suggested.
If you don't want to coat the circuit board with epoxy, at least seal the box's seams with RTV/Silicone sealer and fill the connector with dielectric paste.
Good Luck!
Mark, the SCIL is a very expensive item!!
Not only that, you can't just buy one and plug it in. It contains data relating to your vehicle's ID, options, and operating parameters (this is referred to as the "VID Block"). A very specific scan tool must draw that data out of your old module and transfer it into the new one or not much will work and the new SCIL will spew "Configuration Error" codes.
Let's not go there unless absolutely necessary and complete diagnosis has proven you need it.
For now, stick with the switches and the DDM, as Mrjohn suggested.
If you don't want to coat the circuit board with epoxy, at least seal the box's seams with RTV/Silicone sealer and fill the connector with dielectric paste.
Good Luck!
RE: self-activating door locks
Hey Frankie,
Boy, you sure are timely!! I was just doing some more troubleshooting when I came inside and found your post. Believe me, I have NO intention of just running out and replacing the SCIL module. As we speak, the local LM parts guys are looking one up, they don't even know what it is seemingly! I just wanted a figure because my next step (since I cannot find anything wrong visably, and checking all the fuses and connectors)is to clean up the connections and replace the fuses involved as per the factory service manual. I figure even if it may not be visable to the eye, it could be malfunctioning. That way, I know that part is done.
I only have the AutoZone Actuon type OBD II scanner, so this weekend I will be taking it to my local Ford trained repair shop. Since I have the website, I only use them in a pinch, but they are a major sized full service Ford/Lincoln shop owned and run by an ex-tech of FMC with more stuff hanging on the walls than most of the actual FMC dealerships. His "specialty" is transmissions, but he has a very deep core of dedicated guys there all certified Ford and some from the assembly plant here in Atlanta. Prices are lower than the dealer, by about a third on most things, and at least he will walk a diy-er like me through what the problem is, and offer suggestions. He is going to do the FLM computer's diagnostics, and run through the ground and wiring because obviously he has the equipment and tools us mere mortals don't. He has been great in the past, and I expect the same for this gremlin. Like I said, the connections and grounds look good to me, I cleaned up what I could, but figured I'd let them take a look before changing or sealing anything. His guys don't have a problem following website advice since they are very familiar with the website, and actually use it themselves. Their diagnostics and the website's experience and you are right, we should get to the culprit. At this junction, I think it is a ground or short that I either couldn't locate, or overlooked. The darned thing isn't doing enough of anything to be pinpointed by me - like you said the worst thing is a darned intermittent!! If you can think of anything else to look into, please let me know.! Not knowing is the frustrating part.
My thanks for your insight, let's keep going until we solve it, hopefully WITHOUT new modules!!
Hey Frankie,
Boy, you sure are timely!! I was just doing some more troubleshooting when I came inside and found your post. Believe me, I have NO intention of just running out and replacing the SCIL module. As we speak, the local LM parts guys are looking one up, they don't even know what it is seemingly! I just wanted a figure because my next step (since I cannot find anything wrong visably, and checking all the fuses and connectors)is to clean up the connections and replace the fuses involved as per the factory service manual. I figure even if it may not be visable to the eye, it could be malfunctioning. That way, I know that part is done.
I only have the AutoZone Actuon type OBD II scanner, so this weekend I will be taking it to my local Ford trained repair shop. Since I have the website, I only use them in a pinch, but they are a major sized full service Ford/Lincoln shop owned and run by an ex-tech of FMC with more stuff hanging on the walls than most of the actual FMC dealerships. His "specialty" is transmissions, but he has a very deep core of dedicated guys there all certified Ford and some from the assembly plant here in Atlanta. Prices are lower than the dealer, by about a third on most things, and at least he will walk a diy-er like me through what the problem is, and offer suggestions. He is going to do the FLM computer's diagnostics, and run through the ground and wiring because obviously he has the equipment and tools us mere mortals don't. He has been great in the past, and I expect the same for this gremlin. Like I said, the connections and grounds look good to me, I cleaned up what I could, but figured I'd let them take a look before changing or sealing anything. His guys don't have a problem following website advice since they are very familiar with the website, and actually use it themselves. Their diagnostics and the website's experience and you are right, we should get to the culprit. At this junction, I think it is a ground or short that I either couldn't locate, or overlooked. The darned thing isn't doing enough of anything to be pinpointed by me - like you said the worst thing is a darned intermittent!! If you can think of anything else to look into, please let me know.! Not knowing is the frustrating part.
My thanks for your insight, let's keep going until we solve it, hopefully WITHOUT new modules!!
RE: self-activating door locks
Frankie,
Part 2: I was re-reading your earlier post to see if I was missing something, check this out: there HAS to be SOMETHING going on in the switches because it has had the bags performing the "test vent" - that is what left me slammed!! Also, when I lubed the switches, the problem went away, albeit temporarily. It is locking/unlocking like it can't tell about the door, although it isn't giving a "door ajar" signal. Opinion, please!!
Frankie,
Part 2: I was re-reading your earlier post to see if I was missing something, check this out: there HAS to be SOMETHING going on in the switches because it has had the bags performing the "test vent" - that is what left me slammed!! Also, when I lubed the switches, the problem went away, albeit temporarily. It is locking/unlocking like it can't tell about the door, although it isn't giving a "door ajar" signal. Opinion, please!!
RE: self-activating door locks
Frankie,
Guess what? With all I was checking and planning to do - I just couldn't get away from your insight about the switches. After testing the bags themselves in every which way possible and finding them ok, I noticed that whenever they slammed - I could still hear the actuators locking and unlocking as though they couldn't be sure of whether the doors were opened or closed just like you said. Saying "should we be locked?", or "are we really locked, yet?" or "should we stay locked?" or "oh what the heck, let's just lock and unlock ourselves all night!" Performing test vents until they totally slammed themselves.
While driving the autolocks would come on, locking the doors - and then unlock them. Maybe lock again, maybe stay unlocked. If I opened and closed the driver's side door while rolling, they would immediately lock themselves again and stay locked for the rest of the drive for the most part. Like I said previously, sometimes I would get a brief reprieve by spraying the locks with a lubricant. Your post said try WD-40. Well, I used to work for a chemical company that sold a very high grade lubricant (with Teflon) so I was never very pleased with WD-40. Then it hit me!! My Tefloned lubricant was leaving a dry residue after it worked, meaning NO staying power or penetration. Perhaps a different lubricant may work better.!
I was in my local auto parts store getting some Seafoam, and remembered that they make a penitrant/lubricant as well. Little more expensive, but if it is as good a product as their additives, I couldn't go wrong. Sprayed the locks, and the problem went right away, and at this point has not showed its' head all day thus far. Not one locking/unlocking sequence at all!!! If all holds good until the morning, I will pronounce the patient saved and recovering.!
My point is this: I could NOT get your advice about the switch out of my head no matter how I tried. After I used the first lubricant only to have the problem return, I moved on to look for other solutions. But I couldn't get around the symptoms (test venting and slamming, switch not "knowing" which position was right). I was resigned to the fact that something else was causing the glitch. I am 99% sure it was the switch now, and that my 1st spray just wasn't cutting the mustard. I will wait to pronounce the patient fully cured, but I am glad this simple and relatively inexpensive cure seems to have solved everything. Had I had the F/LM full diagnostic done, they would have found nothing - no codes, and then started tracing down wire by wire and circuit by circuit. If nothing then, you know the next part- "can't find anything, you need to replace _______ and/or______ - fill in the blanks with wires, modules or the like!! Needless to say, let me know when either you and/or Mr. John are in the Atlanta area, dinner is on me!! I'm out, time to drive around Gotham and patrol!!
Frankie,
Guess what? With all I was checking and planning to do - I just couldn't get away from your insight about the switches. After testing the bags themselves in every which way possible and finding them ok, I noticed that whenever they slammed - I could still hear the actuators locking and unlocking as though they couldn't be sure of whether the doors were opened or closed just like you said. Saying "should we be locked?", or "are we really locked, yet?" or "should we stay locked?" or "oh what the heck, let's just lock and unlock ourselves all night!" Performing test vents until they totally slammed themselves.
While driving the autolocks would come on, locking the doors - and then unlock them. Maybe lock again, maybe stay unlocked. If I opened and closed the driver's side door while rolling, they would immediately lock themselves again and stay locked for the rest of the drive for the most part. Like I said previously, sometimes I would get a brief reprieve by spraying the locks with a lubricant. Your post said try WD-40. Well, I used to work for a chemical company that sold a very high grade lubricant (with Teflon) so I was never very pleased with WD-40. Then it hit me!! My Tefloned lubricant was leaving a dry residue after it worked, meaning NO staying power or penetration. Perhaps a different lubricant may work better.!
I was in my local auto parts store getting some Seafoam, and remembered that they make a penitrant/lubricant as well. Little more expensive, but if it is as good a product as their additives, I couldn't go wrong. Sprayed the locks, and the problem went right away, and at this point has not showed its' head all day thus far. Not one locking/unlocking sequence at all!!! If all holds good until the morning, I will pronounce the patient saved and recovering.!
My point is this: I could NOT get your advice about the switch out of my head no matter how I tried. After I used the first lubricant only to have the problem return, I moved on to look for other solutions. But I couldn't get around the symptoms (test venting and slamming, switch not "knowing" which position was right). I was resigned to the fact that something else was causing the glitch. I am 99% sure it was the switch now, and that my 1st spray just wasn't cutting the mustard. I will wait to pronounce the patient fully cured, but I am glad this simple and relatively inexpensive cure seems to have solved everything. Had I had the F/LM full diagnostic done, they would have found nothing - no codes, and then started tracing down wire by wire and circuit by circuit. If nothing then, you know the next part- "can't find anything, you need to replace _______ and/or______ - fill in the blanks with wires, modules or the like!!
Needless to say, let me know when either you and/or Mr. John are in the Atlanta area, dinner is on me!! I'm out, time to drive around Gotham and patrol!!
Frankie X
Registered
RE: self-activating door locks
Hi, Mark!
I'm sorry for the delay, but I'm glad to hear everything seems cool.
I was thinking through a couple of things:
Perhaps the reason you never saw an Ajar message is due to the inherent delay built into this portion of the Multiplexed Network (switch to SCIL, which transmits onward to Message Center)-- as you've probably noticed when everything is working correctly, there's approximately a 1/2 second between the opening or closing of a door and the display on the message center. If the ajar/close signal is very brief, the message center could choose to ignore it, even if it is repetitive.
There's still a small chance it's not the ajar switches.
What are some secondary characteristics of solvent based penetrants?
They displace moisture.
They're non-conductive.
Do you think there's a possibility that, when you're hosing the latches and the fluid is flying around inside the doors, you're coating a portion of harness with a thin film of insulation? I'm visualizing the area that can come in contact with the rearward window track or inner door skin.
I'll keep watching the Weather Network, and when I see rain in the Atlanta region, I'll send you some positive vibes!
Hi, Mark!
I'm sorry for the delay, but I'm glad to hear everything seems cool.
I was thinking through a couple of things:
Perhaps the reason you never saw an Ajar message is due to the inherent delay built into this portion of the Multiplexed Network (switch to SCIL, which transmits onward to Message Center)-- as you've probably noticed when everything is working correctly, there's approximately a 1/2 second between the opening or closing of a door and the display on the message center. If the ajar/close signal is very brief, the message center could choose to ignore it, even if it is repetitive.
There's still a small chance it's not the ajar switches.
What are some secondary characteristics of solvent based penetrants?
They displace moisture.
They're non-conductive.
Do you think there's a possibility that, when you're hosing the latches and the fluid is flying around inside the doors, you're coating a portion of harness with a thin film of insulation? I'm visualizing the area that can come in contact with the rearward window track or inner door skin.
I'll keep watching the Weather Network, and when I see rain in the Atlanta region, I'll send you some positive vibes!
RE: self-activating door locks
Hey Frankie,
As the kids in the neighborhood say in the vernacular, "true dat!!" There is always the outside chance that it isn't just the switches, but is is at least affecting the switches, as evidenced by the remedy. Whatever the problem is - it is causing the switches NOT to read correctly. That is at least temporarily been cured by the penitrant lubricant. Either it is the switches as you suggested, or it is allowing the switches to read correctly. The switches are the only things affected by the spray. If it is coating the harness to some degree, then the coating is insulating against water or whatever has been causing an incorrect read. My guess is it is freeing the switches or displacing the moisture (which is a good thing), as you described. If the switches are at fault and are ready to go entirely, then nothing will prevent this, and when they go, I will replace them. If the temp fix continues to work, then I'm going to ride it out until they fail. If it is insulating against water, that works for me as well.!! I'm hoping I am not coating something that NEEDS conductivity, if I were then it wouldn't function at all. It simply wouldn't conduct and continue or start to fail. I'm sure all the people that use the lubricant fix to free the switches would have noticed and reported this long before MY problem, so I feel pretty sure there. It still is working, knock on wood!! Not ONE lock/unlock sequence at all since the "fix", bags still not moving after parked position. Since it is working now, no need to do a "panic diagnostic" - that cash is better invested in an upgrade, mod, or other improvements.
Hey Frankie,
As the kids in the neighborhood say in the vernacular, "true dat!!" There is always the outside chance that it isn't just the switches, but is is at least affecting the switches, as evidenced by the remedy. Whatever the problem is - it is causing the switches NOT to read correctly. That is at least temporarily been cured by the penitrant lubricant. Either it is the switches as you suggested, or it is allowing the switches to read correctly. The switches are the only things affected by the spray. If it is coating the harness to some degree, then the coating is insulating against water or whatever has been causing an incorrect read. My guess is it is freeing the switches or displacing the moisture (which is a good thing), as you described. If the switches are at fault and are ready to go entirely, then nothing will prevent this, and when they go, I will replace them. If the temp fix continues to work, then I'm going to ride it out until they fail. If it is insulating against water, that works for me as well.!! I'm hoping I am not coating something that NEEDS conductivity, if I were then it wouldn't function at all. It simply wouldn't conduct and continue or start to fail. I'm sure all the people that use the lubricant fix to free the switches would have noticed and reported this long before MY problem, so I feel pretty sure there. It still is working, knock on wood!! Not ONE lock/unlock sequence at all since the "fix", bags still not moving after parked position. Since it is working now, no need to do a "panic diagnostic" - that cash is better invested in an upgrade, mod, or other improvements.