Spark Plug Wires... well hidden on one end..!

F

flowmaster

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My spark plug wires are in need of replacing so I purchased a set of Autolite's, about $130. I knew from accessing the smaller rectangle covers on the valve covers gained me access to the spark plugs. I changed them about 30K miles back and now with 260K it's time (or past time) for new wires. A year and a half ago as I was changing the plugs I noticed a pool of oil in some of the 'tube' shafts that lead into the plug opening. I noted it but did not take action, but I wish that I had in hind sight. The upper o-ring 'formed' seal in the 7" long flexible plug boot was bad on a few cylinders.
The bad wires can act like you have tranny problems - especially when the car shutters only at two tranny shift speeds, 30-35 and 50-55 MPH. I unfortunately spent $2k on a new tranny (3 year Ford warranty) only to discover the car really has old faulty wires, so I am told.
The simple question I have is..... Where in the heck does the other end go to...? Is the locking connector under the valve cover also - meaning I must pull the valve cover in order to change the spark plug wires..? I found a 1/2" diameter of bundled wires that comes out of the end of the valve cover area - firewall side, but they sure as small looking. Not the 8mm dia... wires each requires that are going back in. I found a drawing that shows coil packs in the area - but not helpful enough.
Before I start the wire set change out, I want to make sure that I have a new gasket set for the valve covers if that is what it takes..


Michael......
 
This may help...

plugwires.jpg
 
Your car is a 97 so it doesn't have spark plug wires.

You have a coil on plug (COP) system.

All you should need to replace are the rubber coil boots.
 
The Drawing by Driller is good, but the COP system needs defining...

The Drawing by Driller is good, but the COP system needs defining...

Bill,

Both Advance Auto parts and Rockauto parts show on there site what appears to be a 'conventional' type of spark plug wires at different lengths. The drawing above (thanks Driller) shows the termination point inside the valve cover. I own an full set of Service manuals, '96 publication, and I was only able to find one drawing indicating the COP system you are referring to in the wiring harness isometric, but it was not clear how they termnate to each cylinder.
Are the 'boots' you are referring to, 'just that' the 6" flex tube portion with the coil pack on top? I have ordered a valve cover gasket set to cover myself before I dive in..... I just want to know ahead of time if I actually have the wrong part - this might be a 'dealer' bend me over part...

Michael

no wonder the engine has clean lines.... Overall this 4.6L 32 valve, was one of the best engines Ford ever engineered..!
 
You do NOT have to remove the valve covers.

Remove the little square plastic bit, grab, and pull. They're push-fit on the spark plugs in the holes just like on the gen 1's.

New boots might fix you up, but it might need new coils also. I replaced all the coils on my car, when I had a miss I could find no fault with the boots.
 
Dave's right, you should inspect the coils as you remove them.

Is the engine misfiring now?

I'd be careful using a 96 service manual to work on a 97 car. Many things changed including the ignition system.

Here's a link to beerdog's post where he had some trouble with some coils on Trixie's car. The photos are missing now but he explains what they looked like:

http://lincolnsclub.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2142
 
Affirmative... The COP units have been located...! Orange seal job..?

Affirmative... The COP units have been located...! Orange seal job..?

Yep, I just pulled the small access cover to the coil packs. Odd that two major auto supply chains had full 'conventional' type of plug wires incorrect for the '97 model. I found a good deal on the COP's from, http://www.niehoff.com/ distributed by Advanced Auto. - only $37.99 vs the $75 bucks from the dealer.
I looked into the spark plug 'well' and noticed that there is a orange colored seal to prevent oil from getting though where the valve cams and lower valve covers come together. I have a few that must be leaking a small amount. This looks like a semi major job to replace those seals via removing the valve covers.....? Anyone 'Done' that one before....?

Michael
Duluth GA
 
I'm sure some have done it before, but unless it's leaking a lot, i wouldn't bother with it. Are you losing or burning any oil?
 
I've done the passenger side. A PITA but not as much as the drivers side I am told.
 
Yep.. Good Point ..If 'she's not burning oil.......

Yep.. Good Point ..If 'she's not burning oil.......

Dave / Sleeper,

Good point... I am not burning any oil it just pools about 1-2 teaspoons after about 30K miles in the spark plug well. I can live with that. In my early 20's I worked as a lineman and we would fill large 3 phase power switch gears with oil to prevent high amperage arcing. Don't really know what the difference in the oils are but time will tell there.

My service manual states the coil packs are a high speed 'Darlington pair' design transistors and the control module can 'retard' a spark to occur in each cylinder from feedback by the anti-knock sensor.

Ford had an very good design team on that '97 engine..!

Michael
Duluth GA
 
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