Thermostat - 180 vs 160

A

AbrahamLincoln

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Ok, im all about the thermostat mod lately - I don't live in pennsylvania, where it gets hot, but not nearly as hot as socal or texas. I went on blueovalchips.com and see that they only offer the 180 degree... and there has been some discussion on pros and cons vs each.

what i've learned, is that most people are pro 160, and havn't had any problems... and theres those with 180's who post that the 160 will give you slightly worse gas milage and less hp? im lost. im leaning towards the hypertech one from summit - 160...

i know the owner of boc is lonnie right? he sells a 180 and ran a 13.2 he brags! NA very impressive - im assuming he runs what he sells - soooooooo im on the fence.

Tommy was helping me to find the stant one. I went to advance auto where they sell stant, they said stant doesnt make it anymore or they can't get them?
 
I have the 160, but if yours is a daily driver and not at the track much, I would suggest the 180 for the reasons you stated.
 
lets not get daily driving mixed up with street... i get from point a to point b quickly :) im on the fence i have like 500 bucks in my pocket right now and im fuddled with what wires underdrive pullys t stat to get... if i wanted daily driving ide buy a honda...

ford racing are a good price, but for a wee bit more theres those livewire's from supercoupe performance...

you guys are running low 13's whats your secret?
 
500 bux! :eek: Have you also considered a meziere electric water pump? Was reading up on them earlier... sounds like a nice mod that would compliment your plans!
 
AbrahamLincoln said:
you guys are running low 13's whats your secret?
Click to expand...

No secrets here.

The 160 T-stat will not do much different than the 180 other than the track. The 180 should even have the chip programmed to turn on the cooling fan 10* - 15* earlier for full benefit.
 
AbrahamLincoln said:
ford racing are a good price, but for a wee bit more theres those livewire's from supercoupe performance...

you guys are running low 13's whats your secret?
Click to expand...

If you want the best wires, you'll get Nology.

Lonnie and JP are running low 13's due to a million mods, not just a couple. They've pretty much changed out everything except for the block and heads. We're talking over $10K and hundreds of hours of work. They're secret is that they have the money and time to undertake the work.
 
im having my lms chip reflashed by pdq very soon to tweak to my mods... interesting about the electric water pump, how much hp does that free up? i dunno i told my tuner that i was going to run a 160 tstat and he said he would make it more aggressive for the colder t stat (including the i 1 step colder plugs)
 
what did that demon kit do for you? hp wise? vs that electric water pump under drive pully? i can't figure out what im going to do... stall converter is very tempting too.
 
frees up 11 rwhp, application for mustangs. not bad but for 350 ish, ill look for other stuff, if my water pump would go bad tomorrow, def would purchase.
 
Driller would be the man to ask about these, as i believe he has one. Heres a couple of links:

http://store.summitracing.com/partd...N=700+400027+-145241+-128300+115&autoview=sku

http://www.meziere.com/displaycategory.aspx?id=244,128,394

Notice on the Meziere site, they list several models for the Ford Modular, best ask about which is best for you.

Good thing about this mod, from what i can tell, is that you are replacing your old, worn pump with this electric type that is more efficient, frees up some HP and is simple to fit, allowing you to run your stock serpentine belt route. Only draw back i can see is the price of it!

Still, worth considering as a future upgrade. (reckon i will get one of these sometime) Anyway, im sure Driller can tell you more.
 
im looking for good relatively inexpensive mods that give dollar per dollar hp. underdrive pullys gotta be one of them. i was thinking about running a 50 or 100 shot, i understand you need two step colder plugs, but if not run 1 step colder... i see drillers running the 2 step colder plugs, i dont see any power adders though? makes me one to go with those. i just want to be able to run low 13 with some juice.
 
I suppose the only true way to find out if those Nology wires work is to dyno test them, back to back, against new stock wires.

I was rattling my brain trying to work out how they work. I came to the conclusion that the internal capacitor in each wire must store the electricity from the wasted spark and then fire on the next go. (kinda confirmed my theory when i looked on their site)

Maybe on 'waste spark' ignition systems, such as ours, they can work? Certainly an interesting concept...

http://www.nology.com/hot.html

Mind you, the way they have explained it on that link doesn't quite support my theory. I don't see how a capacitor can boost anything without already having some energy stored (like from the waste spark) Dunno... confused now! Lol.
 
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im running the MSD coil packs and wires on my car it seemed to pick up a bit when i put them on. the best bang for the buck ive done so far is to take your coil packs off and sand the rust and paint off of the mounts under the coils. i sanded the mounts and the bottem of the coils with just some 80 grit paper and it seemed to help as much as the msd stuff did. think about it that mount is the ground for your coil bad ground = bad power.

i have the MSD stuff, 3200 stall, CAI, single flowmaster exhaust and im down to a 9.4 at 74 mph in the 1/8th with a 2.0 60 foot spinning the tires about 10 feet.
 
3200 stall is one of my next mods. anyways - the package deal offered by performance dist. comes with wires and coil packs - which are meant to work with each other, they are a bit pricey, but im on the fence. One thing I like is that they state you can gap your plugs at .0065 :) you can only do this by getting there supporting wires and coils. Driller, what gap do you run with that package, did you notice any difference with those wires and coilpacks with the two step colder plugs? IMO, i would like to do all the supporting/tune up mods so i can run a 100 shot dry. i got the walboro 255, soon a adjustable fpr... im just curious why you dont run juice driller, your setup looks textbook for it

160 degree T stat
underdrive pullys
Ford racing 9mm
1 step colder motor craft plugs

that was my original setup which one have been fine but nitrious i figure will require some different stuff in there.
im gonna jump over to some cobra 4v forums and see what the hell they are doing.
 
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Need to "really" re-evaluate your chip decision/purchase....

You bought it from ***, but have to send it "somewhere else" to have changes made to it?

You really should steer away from a chip, that comes from a company that "doesnt sell Mark 8 chips" to regular customers.

Then again, this is old news.. I've told you this.. "time and time again"...

How much time are you going to spend, running back and forth between the vendor and the third party who actually "makes the chips"?

Myself.. I like to DRIVE MY CAR, not spend my days troubleshooting issues caused by some "third party" tuner.

you got that thing...WHEN?
and it's been back to the tuner.. HOW MANY TIMES?

If you want to run what the "fast cars" are running it seems you would really want to run the same tune as the fast cars.

...not some cookie cutter third party chip.

Right now you have the money to "recover" from one of your early mistakes.
THAT would be my first step.

Show me a single Mark 8 running a PDQ tune in the 13's and I'll never mention "your chip" again.
 
well met, but again you have the software and make your own stuff and (cough) havn't run a 13 yet :) haha i know your time a "number guy". As I learned more about this particular car, the thing to really do are the inexepensive mods that really give you hp. ill buy a tuner package when the time comes... but im sitting on my hands for now because i think im gonna do up a thunderbird or a sn-95 because i can get away with running a stand alone and a tremec, and lighten up some stuff - i want to see 2900 lbs instead of 4k, and that aint going to happen on markviii... but for now (i mean 1-2 years) im going to take it one day at a time do it step by step.

its like things for fords are done, and have be done for years now. but its a big ? when it comes to the lincoln. If the damned computer didnt control the tranny we'd all be running around with stand alones.

you tube the 600 hp black mark viii, it runs high 11's and that thing has everything done under the sun done to it. that kind of hp doesnt make sense at least to me in a markviii, because its a creeper comfy sleeper. im not sure how far i want to go, but shedding 1000 lbs is 100 hp better handling and braking... he even says, man with all that work im only running high to mid 11's. kicking himself and trying to sell it to put it in a lighter mustang to run 9's.

like i said, i havn't been to the track yet.... soon i will be and im sure itll be more of a learning process about drag racing then about the car. ill be happy to put down a high 14 with what i have done so far. hopefully with 4.10's and juice and some of the supplementing mods and minir bolt ons thats possible. if i can't do it with genes lms then itll be better off in someones car that drives it everyday thousands of miles a month. because makes the pitch that his tune is streetable it promises what it delivers 10-12 crank hp better shifts and cost 100 bucks less than the sct dealer. I'm not unhappy.

but tommy your making 40 whp with your tuning and still in the 14's... and you paid 1000 dollars for that software, ide rather spend 500 dollars on a 100 shot, 500 dollars on a stall converter
 
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