Tire Size
- Thread starter redn8
- Start date
MaddShadez
Registered
RE: Tire Size
Norm, I'm Highly rrecommmending them. Supposedly your only supposed to get 30,000 miles out of them with easy driving, but I drive Like I stole it, and at 40,000 miles I still have good tread left. Just never ever ever drive them in the snow. It's almost gotten me killed several times. I wish it was always summer here, right now it's around 40-45 degrees. Last week it was 75.
Norm, I'm Highly rrecommmending them. Supposedly your only supposed to get 30,000 miles out of them with easy driving, but I drive Like I stole it, and at 40,000 miles I still have good tread left. Just never ever ever drive them in the snow. It's almost gotten me killed several times. I wish it was always summer here, right now it's around 40-45 degrees. Last week it was 75.
RE: Tire Size
I checked them.
http://www.1010tires.com/images/tires/toyo_proxes_T1_S_large.jpg
A lot pricey $186
I checked them.
http://www.1010tires.com/images/tires/toyo_proxes_T1_S_large.jpg
A lot pricey $186
RE: Tire Size
im tellin yah, stick with the firehawks 186$ a piece but its one hell of a tire, one thing to note, 255 is the max you can stick on your stock rim, you can fit wider tire, but you wont be able to turn it all in or all out... i tried from personal experience 255s are the only ones that will let you turn just fine.
im tellin yah, stick with the firehawks 186$ a piece but its one hell of a tire, one thing to note, 255 is the max you can stick on your stock rim, you can fit wider tire, but you wont be able to turn it all in or all out... i tried from personal experience 255s are the only ones that will let you turn just fine.
RE: Tire Size
Norm,
My '97 came with Dunlop SP5000 245/50-16s on stock rims. They scrubbed the anti-sway bar in the front when I turned to the lock in either direction. The ride was harsher than normal, and not decisively more responsive than the stock size that I replaced them with. They followed ruts on sagging asphalt roads with a vengeance. They looked good from the rear or front, but did not fill the fender wells because they are smaller in diameter than stock. The speedometer was out-of-calibration too.
I decided to replace them with the stock size 225/60-16 Bridgestone Potenza RE730. I would have put the Dunlop SP5000s back on in the stock size, but the tread pattern on the 60 series is different than the SP5000s that I had in the 50 series. Go figure. They looked too much like a passenger car tire to me.
I couldn't have been happier with the Bridgestone Potenza RE730 in stock size. I really like the way that they look on the Mark VIII. They are sporty, yet not adolescent. They filled the fender well much better than the 245/50s so they looked much better from the sides. The tread pattern looks great from the front/rear too. They gave me a comfortable ride, traction was excellent even in the rain, and didn't follow ruts in the road. They seemed to be wearing very well for a Z-rated tire, but I sold the car before I could get 10,000 miles on them. I wish that I could have thought of a way to keep them for use on my '98. I will buy them again. I highly recommend them. Here's what they look like: [link:www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Bridgestone&tireModel=Potenza+RE730+Gen.+2|Bridgestone Potenza RE730] There is one added bonus to these tires; they don't have those aggrevating ridges on the sidewalls that trap dirt and are hard to clean.
I know that you're looking forward to using this opportunity to improve your Mark VIII, but I think that changing the tire size is a mistake. The only size, other than stock, that I would consider is 235/55-16, but they are hard to find.
Norm,
My '97 came with Dunlop SP5000 245/50-16s on stock rims. They scrubbed the anti-sway bar in the front when I turned to the lock in either direction. The ride was harsher than normal, and not decisively more responsive than the stock size that I replaced them with. They followed ruts on sagging asphalt roads with a vengeance. They looked good from the rear or front, but did not fill the fender wells because they are smaller in diameter than stock. The speedometer was out-of-calibration too.
I decided to replace them with the stock size 225/60-16 Bridgestone Potenza RE730. I would have put the Dunlop SP5000s back on in the stock size, but the tread pattern on the 60 series is different than the SP5000s that I had in the 50 series. Go figure. They looked too much like a passenger car tire to me.
I couldn't have been happier with the Bridgestone Potenza RE730 in stock size. I really like the way that they look on the Mark VIII. They are sporty, yet not adolescent. They filled the fender well much better than the 245/50s so they looked much better from the sides. The tread pattern looks great from the front/rear too. They gave me a comfortable ride, traction was excellent even in the rain, and didn't follow ruts in the road. They seemed to be wearing very well for a Z-rated tire, but I sold the car before I could get 10,000 miles on them. I wish that I could have thought of a way to keep them for use on my '98. I will buy them again. I highly recommend them. Here's what they look like: [link:www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Bridgestone&tireModel=Potenza+RE730+Gen.+2|Bridgestone Potenza RE730] There is one added bonus to these tires; they don't have those aggrevating ridges on the sidewalls that trap dirt and are hard to clean.
I know that you're looking forward to using this opportunity to improve your Mark VIII, but I think that changing the tire size is a mistake. The only size, other than stock, that I would consider is 235/55-16, but they are hard to find.
BadSax
enjoys 3 martini lunches
RE: Tire Size
Many people (including myself) have asked "How the heck can I get the great Gen2-style climate control unit into my Gen1?"
Well, here's what you need and how to do a proper R&R.
1) What you need:
a climate control unit (EATC) for a 1996 Lincoln Mark VIII. The '97-'98 Mark VIII ones look similar, but they will NOT work. Other Ford EATCs look similar, but they will NOT work. You must get the 1996 Mark VIII unit!
2) How to do the swap:
The following step-by-step instructions were noted as I did the swap in 2002. I hope this helps you, since the service manual leaves out some relatively important steps!
1) Disconnect negative battery cable.
2) Engage emergency brake, place shifter in 2 or 1.
3) Gently pry up the wood trim around the shifter, and remove the trim. You will need to pop it up and pull toward the rear of the car in order to disengage the tabs that hold the front of it in place.
4) Now you will see two small hex screws that were covered up by the shifter trim - remove these.
5) Gently pry up the wood trim panel that goes around the radio/climate control. (I started in the upper LH corner, and worked clockwise).
5) Once the trim is fully loose, the lighter/traction control/defroster wires will keep the trim from falling anywhere. Disconnect the gray connector to allow full removal of the trim panel. (You're going to need the room!).
6) Remove the 4 hex screws holding the EATC in place by using a socket or torx bit. (Don't mess with the integrated clips holding the faceplate to the EATC - it doesn't help with anything and they're really fragile).
7) The HARDEST part. If your harness is like mine, you will just *barely* be able to pull the EATC out of its hole, so that there's about 1/2 in. gap between the back of the EATC unit and the dash. This is all the room you get - unless you remove your console...)
You need to disconnect 3 things from the back of the EATC to fully remove it:
A) Black female connector (farthest one on the LH side of the unit)
B) Gray female connector (just to the right of the black one)
C) a flexible vacuum block/colored vacuum lines assembly. (a little bit to the right of the gray connector, and closer to the top of the EATC.)
A) Black connector - in the 1/2 of space you have to work with, push down (with a screwdriver) onto the top of the connector. You need to release the catch that holds the connector into the EATC. While you're doing this, with your other hand, reach in through the hole in the dash beneath the EATC and try to pull the connector out. This will only happen if you are able to release the catch from the top, while simultaneously 'pushing' it out of the unit from the bottom.
B) Gray connector - Same as black connector.
C) Vacuum block/lines - You do not need to memorize colors or positions. The thing comes out an an assembly. (Wish someone had told me!) Unfortunately, it is secured on two plastic posts, with factory speed nuts applied at what seemed like 100ft-lbs/. You need to remove the speed nuts (3/8" I believe), and then you can remove the flexible vacuum assembly. I used needle nose vise grips to get them loosened, and then used the 3/8 socket with just my fingers to get them off. Once the speed nuts are off, gently peel the vacuum line assembly off the EATC.
8) The EATC is FINALLY removed!
9) BTW, on 1995s, now is a good time to clean the dust off of your in-car temperature sensor. It's the dusty thing that's usually covered up by your Lincoln insignia on the wood trim.
10) Install is reverse of the removal.
I hope this helps someone in the future. Just remember that you only have a tiny bit of space to work in, and that the vacuum lines come off as a group by unscrewing a retainer from the back of the EATC.
The new unit looks and works great!!
Ok, time for my $.02 although it may feel like a few rolls of quarters...
I run 235/60's Michelin Pilots... one size wider, and a little taller since they are still a 60% sidewall. I love them. Anyone who has ever ridden in the car with me can tell you that these tires get quite a workout. In fact, you should ask Frank about the dunkin' doughnuts drive thru... Or John about the carwash incident... then you'll know exactly what I'm talking about.
Anyway, they fill the fender a little better because of their extra size. They have a cool looking sidewall. They handle great, especially in the rain. They're crap in the snow though... not that you'll have to ever worry about that I suppose.
-Joe
Many people (including myself) have asked "How the heck can I get the great Gen2-style climate control unit into my Gen1?"
Well, here's what you need and how to do a proper R&R.
1) What you need:
a climate control unit (EATC) for a 1996 Lincoln Mark VIII. The '97-'98 Mark VIII ones look similar, but they will NOT work. Other Ford EATCs look similar, but they will NOT work. You must get the 1996 Mark VIII unit!
2) How to do the swap:
The following step-by-step instructions were noted as I did the swap in 2002. I hope this helps you, since the service manual leaves out some relatively important steps!
1) Disconnect negative battery cable.
2) Engage emergency brake, place shifter in 2 or 1.
3) Gently pry up the wood trim around the shifter, and remove the trim. You will need to pop it up and pull toward the rear of the car in order to disengage the tabs that hold the front of it in place.
4) Now you will see two small hex screws that were covered up by the shifter trim - remove these.
5) Gently pry up the wood trim panel that goes around the radio/climate control. (I started in the upper LH corner, and worked clockwise).
5) Once the trim is fully loose, the lighter/traction control/defroster wires will keep the trim from falling anywhere. Disconnect the gray connector to allow full removal of the trim panel. (You're going to need the room!).
6) Remove the 4 hex screws holding the EATC in place by using a socket or torx bit. (Don't mess with the integrated clips holding the faceplate to the EATC - it doesn't help with anything and they're really fragile).
7) The HARDEST part. If your harness is like mine, you will just *barely* be able to pull the EATC out of its hole, so that there's about 1/2 in. gap between the back of the EATC unit and the dash. This is all the room you get - unless you remove your console...)
You need to disconnect 3 things from the back of the EATC to fully remove it:
A) Black female connector (farthest one on the LH side of the unit)
B) Gray female connector (just to the right of the black one)
C) a flexible vacuum block/colored vacuum lines assembly. (a little bit to the right of the gray connector, and closer to the top of the EATC.)
A) Black connector - in the 1/2 of space you have to work with, push down (with a screwdriver) onto the top of the connector. You need to release the catch that holds the connector into the EATC. While you're doing this, with your other hand, reach in through the hole in the dash beneath the EATC and try to pull the connector out. This will only happen if you are able to release the catch from the top, while simultaneously 'pushing' it out of the unit from the bottom.
B) Gray connector - Same as black connector.
C) Vacuum block/lines - You do not need to memorize colors or positions. The thing comes out an an assembly. (Wish someone had told me!) Unfortunately, it is secured on two plastic posts, with factory speed nuts applied at what seemed like 100ft-lbs/. You need to remove the speed nuts (3/8" I believe), and then you can remove the flexible vacuum assembly. I used needle nose vise grips to get them loosened, and then used the 3/8 socket with just my fingers to get them off. Once the speed nuts are off, gently peel the vacuum line assembly off the EATC.
8) The EATC is FINALLY removed!
9) BTW, on 1995s, now is a good time to clean the dust off of your in-car temperature sensor. It's the dusty thing that's usually covered up by your Lincoln insignia on the wood trim.
10) Install is reverse of the removal.
I hope this helps someone in the future. Just remember that you only have a tiny bit of space to work in, and that the vacuum lines come off as a group by unscrewing a retainer from the back of the EATC.
The new unit looks and works great!!
Ok, time for my $.02 although it may feel like a few rolls of quarters...
I run 235/60's Michelin Pilots... one size wider, and a little taller since they are still a 60% sidewall. I love them. Anyone who has ever ridden in the car with me can tell you that these tires get quite a workout. In fact, you should ask Frank about the dunkin' doughnuts drive thru... Or John about the carwash incident... then you'll know exactly what I'm talking about.
Anyway, they fill the fender a little better because of their extra size. They have a cool looking sidewall. They handle great, especially in the rain. They're crap in the snow though... not that you'll have to ever worry about that I suppose.
-Joe
LINCOLNBOY
Registered
RE: Tire Size
on my 95 cougar w/ stock 15" rims (what size were they 5 1/2 or 6 i cant remember) but i had 255/60/15 w/ no problems at all. sharp & fast turns were fun.
on my 95 cougar w/ stock 15" rims (what size were they 5 1/2 or 6 i cant remember) but i had 255/60/15 w/ no problems at all. sharp & fast turns were fun.