Transmission replacement

J

Jker

Registered
Hey guys. Long time....

I searched around but I still have a question. My 93 ate the direct clutch in the tranny. Rather than rebuild, I'd like to replace.

I have a line on a 2003 'Stang trans, but I did come accross a notation about the VSS. IF the 2K3 trans has no provisions for a VSS, what is the work around? Is there a way to make this work? I already know about the harness, TCC, MLPS, and was ready to pull the trigger on this deal, so any info would be appreciated.

Also, what's involved with dropping the K Member? The engine will stay "in" the car, and be supported from the top, but I'd like to pull the K Member to replace my motor mounts, oil pan gasket, and maybe install a set of kook's headers.

Thanks
Jker
 
RE: Transmission replacement

k-member is pretty easy. You need to support the engine, drain the air from the struts and unbolt them from the lower control arms, remove the bolt holding the upper ball joint to the spindle and separate them, disconnect the steering shaft, disconnect the ABS sensors, disconnect the power steering lines (you can do this after you start to lower the k-member, they're easier to get to), remove the brake calipers and hang them on the chassis so you don't have to disconnect the lines. Then there are 8 reverse-torx bolts holding the k-member in, and two bolts for the motor mounts (right one from the rear, left one from the front). Down she comes. Make sure you have a jack under there. Once you have the k-member out the headers aren't too bad.

My k-member is out as we speak, i just dropped it this weekend. I probably spent 4-5 hours in the garage Saturday and 3-4 in the garage Sunday, but that includes building a tool to support the engine from the top, and removing my drivers side header. Yours might be harder though if it's never been out, i had mine out last year.
 
RE: Transmission replacement

There's an electronic device called a speed-cal you can get to make your speedo work. I don't know much about it but I think it hooks into the electronics on the trans and throws a speedometer signal to your computer. dallasmustang sells 'em I think.
 
RE: Transmission replacement

A speed cal will not correct the fact that sme 03 transmissions do not have teeth on the output shaft for the speedo gear. The speedcal will make an 8 tooth unit work. If you buy a trans that does not have teeth on it you have to change output shafts. The 98 markVIII output shaft is the most desireable and will not require a speedcal.
Alan
 
RE: Transmission replacement

You'll probably need to reuse the extension housing and speed sensor off your current trans as well.
 
RE: Transmission replacement

That's what I was wondering about. Whether or not there even was a spot for a speedcal to be placed.

I R-E-A-L-L-Y do NOT want to tear into a 2K3 tranny to swap output shafts. Is there another alternative, or should I just say Forget about it, and get a pre 2k3 trans.

Opinions?
 
RE: Transmission replacement

I don't know what all is involved in swapping output shafts so i can't really say. But any '98-up tranny should be good for your purposes.
 
RE: Transmission replacement

Well, output shafts are swapped from the front, meaning the pump, and all the clutch packs, OD Band, OD Server, the valve body needs to come down also, that's all i can remember so far....All that stuff needs to come out, THEN you can get the output shaft out. Re-assemble in reverse order. But I am not going to do that. Call me a chicken, say I have no balls, or whatever, I'll keep looking for another trans.

And thanks for the info on the K-MEMBER. I'm going to pull that tonight.
 
RE: Transmission replacement

Yea, if it's that involved to swap output shafts, you might as well be rebuilding the frickin' tranny at the same time.

Good luck!
 
RE: Transmission replacement

If you release the strut from the lower control arms, as suggested above , the strut stays inside the fender. No need to mess with the airlines, unless you release the top of the strut instead.
 
RE: Transmission replacement

Thanks. I'll leave the struts bolted in up top, and just un bolt them from the lower control arm.

Didn't get around to droping the K Member last night. I tore the rear out instead, to get it ready for my trac loc and 4:10's.

The search continues for a suitable tranny. I'd rather not rip into a good tranny, just to replace the tailshaft. Knowing my luck, I'd forget something.
 
RE: Transmission replacement

[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
If you release the strut from the lower control arms, as suggested above , the strut stays inside the fender. No need to mess with the airlines, unless you release the top of the strut instead.
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YOU STILL NEED TO DRAIN THE AIR. Just thought i'd put that in all caps so nobody would miss it. You might get a little bit of a rude surprise if you disconnect the struts from the control arms without draining the air out of them. But you can leave the lines attached, just pull the solenoids halfway out and they'll drain.

I think i mentioned the power steering lines. There are two that need to be undone, and when you do it all the power steering fluid is going to come out so have a pan ready. One of the hoses that is clamped on in the front i believe going to the PS cooler, needs to be disconnected, and the two bolts holding the line that goes to the rack need to be removed. You can lower the k-member most of the way out of the car then disconnect that line at the rack, there should be enough slack when you remove the two bolts.
 
RE: Transmission replacement

[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
Here's some videos on our tranny, disassembly and assembly, including the output shaft:http://www.mn12performance.com/mn12...mn12-techinfo/trans-tech/4r70w-assembly.wmvIn case you get some courage :+
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DOH! In "Case" I get some courage....as in, don;t be afraid to get into the case.

My concern is, 1, have my old output shaft that Iguess I could theoretically swap into the new trans, but didn't they change somewhere down the line?

My other issue is, Sure, I could rebuild what I have, but I'd have a rebuilt peice of crap, unless I buy a new MD, a new Direct Clutch drum, better valve body, better stub shaft, etc, and if I buy all that crap, I'll wind up spending more than what I can get the other 2003 'stang trans for. I mean, I'm all for doing things myself, when it makes half way decent financial sense, but in this case, it doesn't. Just get a newer trans with all the updates, do the jmod, and add a 3200 PI Stallion. Done. Gone.

Hey, I'm doing the rear, adding gears and a trac lock, plus I rebuilt the FM145 in my Bronco II last winter. I'm no stranger to gear oil, tranny fluid, and dirty finger nails.
 
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