I have the same problem but I think its wiring, because mine started clicking all fast so i got out and pounded the back corner light and bam fixed the american way. Anyways your brake lights should of turned on, that jackass must of been tailgating, I would of beat the guys ass but thats just me.
Turn signals again....FINALLY!!!
- Thread starter Brad
- Start date
RE: Turn signals again....FINALLY!!!
I think the fast clicking might have been a cracked filament in the bulb,or a loose wire,that was fixed by it banging back in contact.I have had the fast clicking and it was a burned out bulb.Harleys and railroad cars are about the only things you can fix with a hammer.
sleeper
Former LOD President
RE: Turn signals again....FINALLY!!!
I had the same problem with my '90 thunderbird back in the day. They were intermittant at first, then they totally quit. I drove around using hand signals for a few weeks until i got my first Mark. When i went to sell the thunderbird, i had to fix the turn signals. I found the flasher relay that you're talking about and headed to the junkyard. $5 later, plus another $10 for a two-knob radio to put in the car to sell it, my turn signals worked.
I had the same problem with my '90 thunderbird back in the day. They were intermittant at first, then they totally quit. I drove around using hand signals for a few weeks until i got my first Mark. When i went to sell the thunderbird, i had to fix the turn signals. I found the flasher relay that you're talking about and headed to the junkyard. $5 later, plus another $10 for a two-knob radio to put in the car to sell it, my turn signals worked.
Pauls dropped 8
Registered
RE: Turn signals again....FINALLY!!!
ray, wanna sell me one of your multifunction switches? my hazards havent worked since i bought the car.
ray, wanna sell me one of your multifunction switches? my hazards havent worked since i bought the car.
RE: Turn signals again....FINALLY!!!
Guys,
Don't panic on the multifunction switch until you try the fix that worked for me. I was told to spray an electronic cleaner in the emergency flashers switch on top the steering column. I was sceptical but did it anyway. After exercising the flasher switch a few times they started working. The key is to spray behind the switch and imediately exercise it. Don't drown the switch and clean as the overspray in might stain the finish?
Good luck and if this fails check the signal relay behind and to the left of the glove box after you remove it.
The MF switch const about $45 bucks on line at RockAuto.
Good luck,
Bobber
Guys,
Don't panic on the multifunction switch until you try the fix that worked for me. I was told to spray an electronic cleaner in the emergency flashers switch on top the steering column. I was sceptical but did it anyway. After exercising the flasher switch a few times they started working. The key is to spray behind the switch and imediately exercise it. Don't drown the switch and clean as the overspray in might stain the finish?
Good luck and if this fails check the signal relay behind and to the left of the glove box after you remove it.
The MF switch const about $45 bucks on line at RockAuto.
Good luck,
Bobber
RE: Turn signals again....FINALLY!!!
I dunno if you tried this, but I have found that many times the local parts store will have those relays for a lot less. I also have a problem with my turnsignals dieing on me on occation, but have pulled the bulbs out in the taillights to find the bases melted. Anyone else have a problem with this? One situation I was informed of is if it's a short, the Mark VIII will sometimes try and give the bulb more juice or something along those lines. I don't know exactly how smart the electrical system is in these cars, but I know that it tells me when something is wrong with my car (compressor, taillight out, etc.)
I dunno if you tried this, but I have found that many times the local parts store will have those relays for a lot less. I also have a problem with my turnsignals dieing on me on occation, but have pulled the bulbs out in the taillights to find the bases melted. Anyone else have a problem with this? One situation I was informed of is if it's a short, the Mark VIII will sometimes try and give the bulb more juice or something along those lines. I don't know exactly how smart the electrical system is in these cars, but I know that it tells me when something is wrong with my car (compressor, taillight out, etc.)
RE: Turn signals again....FINALLY!!!
PHRANQUY,
I am also getting information from my favorite mechanic that it may be a grounding problem. It seems that there are to few grounds in the instrument cluster and that shared grounds could be a problem. I have had a temporary condition where the temp control and displays slightly flickered in intensity. No one has found the problem yet so I quit trying. It also hasn't happened for a while, go figure.
I am told if the flashers quit or the "door Ajar" alarms happen again to biring it in. Guess I will wait until next time? By the way, the mechanic says the 95's and older do not have enough memory to store alarms that clear. That sucks, makes me look like the whinner I am.
Bob
PHRANQUY,
I am also getting information from my favorite mechanic that it may be a grounding problem. It seems that there are to few grounds in the instrument cluster and that shared grounds could be a problem. I have had a temporary condition where the temp control and displays slightly flickered in intensity. No one has found the problem yet so I quit trying. It also hasn't happened for a while, go figure.
I am told if the flashers quit or the "door Ajar" alarms happen again to biring it in. Guess I will wait until next time? By the way, the mechanic says the 95's and older do not have enough memory to store alarms that clear. That sucks, makes me look like the whinner I am.
Bob
RE: Turn signals again....FINALLY!!!
In my 95 T-bird, it was the third brake light that kept going out. Last time I tried to replace the bulbs, the entire housing had melted to the point that I couldn't even get one of the bulbs out (there were two).
Brad, the quick flashing trun signal is usually a sure sign that the light bulb is out. When you hit it, you probably knocked the filament back together temporarily. Unless there is a problem with the base, I'd just about guarantee that replacing the bulb will fix your problem. Believe me on this. On my 88 T-bird, the headlight would keep going out and then come on when I hit a bump. I thought it was a bad connection or something and so I'd get out and hit the headlight every time it went out. One time I hit it too hard, and knocked the housing loose (broke the mounts). Turns out all I needed was a new bulb (I didn't replace the connector), but I ended up paying for a new housing too. A lesson learned the hard way.
In my 95 T-bird, it was the third brake light that kept going out. Last time I tried to replace the bulbs, the entire housing had melted to the point that I couldn't even get one of the bulbs out (there were two).
Brad, the quick flashing trun signal is usually a sure sign that the light bulb is out. When you hit it, you probably knocked the filament back together temporarily. Unless there is a problem with the base, I'd just about guarantee that replacing the bulb will fix your problem. Believe me on this. On my 88 T-bird, the headlight would keep going out and then come on when I hit a bump. I thought it was a bad connection or something and so I'd get out and hit the headlight every time it went out. One time I hit it too hard, and knocked the housing loose (broke the mounts). Turns out all I needed was a new bulb (I didn't replace the connector), but I ended up paying for a new housing too. A lesson learned the hard way.
RE: Turn signals again....FINALLY!!!
I agree with Darrah. I had a funny problem in a radio that used peanut bulbs as illumination. I kept replacing the bulb only to have it last a week or so. They got so hot the glass turned black. When I finally looked at the socket it was burned to a crisp. The problem apparently was a faulty connection in the socket.
In this case the electrons were arcing in the socket and the element stayed lit only diming occasionally and rebrightening. The deal is the resistance was high due to the arcing and burning of the metal contacts. The dialectric insulator around the socket fried and eventually failed as I tried to replace another bulb.
In the car you need to be sure the bulb fits in the socket tightly, no slack other than during the placement of the bulb. Once in it should be tight.
Another trick is to use a little non-foberoid grease on the lamp socket to protect against oxydation or corrosion.
LOL and be patient, check the sockets closely.
Bobber
I agree with Darrah. I had a funny problem in a radio that used peanut bulbs as illumination. I kept replacing the bulb only to have it last a week or so. They got so hot the glass turned black. When I finally looked at the socket it was burned to a crisp. The problem apparently was a faulty connection in the socket.
In this case the electrons were arcing in the socket and the element stayed lit only diming occasionally and rebrightening. The deal is the resistance was high due to the arcing and burning of the metal contacts. The dialectric insulator around the socket fried and eventually failed as I tried to replace another bulb.
In the car you need to be sure the bulb fits in the socket tightly, no slack other than during the placement of the bulb. Once in it should be tight.
Another trick is to use a little non-foberoid grease on the lamp socket to protect against oxydation or corrosion.
LOL and be patient, check the sockets closely.
Bobber