Two In One Change Spark and COolant

Pure Distilled Water

Pure Distilled Water

Ahhh, California. I too use less than 50/50 for the same reason. I buy distilled water at the store, and never use tap water.

Heres an item for debate: on my iron block cars, I have used 100% distilled water with soluble oil added for corrosion prevention and water pump lubrication. Looks like milk. It freezes at 32F, but that's OK around here, especially in a garage.

http://www.itwfpg.com/rustlick/machining.html
 
OK (I guess) for an iron block, but what are your heads made of? Same thing goes as if the block was aluminum.....If it were me, I'd be using 50/50, at least for the higher temp boil-over protection.
 
logres said:
But...water conducts heat better than coolant, so it will remove heat from the engine faster.
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How much faster?
I dont know, but it would seem to me if you want to remove heat keep the fan running, use a cooler t-stat and get a bigger radiator.
 
Be2lose said:
How much faster?
I dont know, but it would seem to me if you want to remove heat keep the fan running, use a cooler t-stat and get a bigger radiator.
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Those will all work, but changing the fluid is much easier and cheaper. As for how much faster, water has a conductivity of 0.60 W/mC, coolant is at 0.25. 50/50 is at 0.41. Going to 15% coolant vs. 50% increases cooling efficiency by about 35%. Throw in some watter wetter and you're doing better than any radiator upgrade alone could do. Check out the link below:

http://www.redlineoil.com/whitePaper/17.pdf

The t-stat does not improve cooling efficiency, it only lowers operating temperature.
 
Overheating isn't your problem, and if it is its not because of the inefficiency of the 50/50 mixture. You need that higher boiling point and a pressurized system.
 
Be2lose said:
Well I though that was the point. Removeing heat or never letting get there.
Since your Redline link I have read alittle about ther products. Are you or have you used WaterWetter?
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Yeah...it dropped my operating temperature greatly when in hot stop-and-go traffic (thermostat completely open). I used to run the temp up to the "O" on the gauge with the AC on and 95+ degrees outside. Now it never gets above the "R". 99.9% of the time, it runs on the "A", but that's with a 180 tstat.
 
KyleH said:
Overheating isn't your problem, and if it is its not because of the inefficiency of the 50/50 mixture. You need that higher boiling point and a pressurized system.
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Let me clarify.

Water Wetter is not a repair, merely a patch. If the car is overheating, it needs to get fixed. If you don't have time to take it to the shop, or don't have the money to fix it right away, then Water Wetter is a very good stop-gap.

I use Water Wetter so that I can run at high rpms for twice as long as I used to before having to cool down.
 
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