ud pulleys

4.6mark

4.6mark

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to install underdrive pulleys i would need to purchase a puller to get the crank pulley off right? just want to double check so im not trying to pull it off for hours and getting frustrated.
 
Yes, I've do so many of these I could probably do them in my sleep. On the Gen 1s from 93 - 95 you don't have an air pump discharge pipe and diverter valve to contend with. The 96 and Gen 2 you will. This piping is sometimes a real bear to get out of your way. It crosses over in front of the crank dampener and the valve sits directly in front of it. The Steeda pulley will fit but you have to pull the piping and valve away from the engine so they don't rub. The pipe will bend some but it's a bear since it's some kind of stainless.

The fan has to come out on both Gens and then the puller will slip right in. Now one trick is to leave the belt on and or even have someone apply tension to the belt while you break the alt. and water pump bolts loose. The alt. and crank will need a pneumatic impact or a good electric one to break the bolts loose. I don't know of a small electric on that would fit in there though.

Now on all the Marks I've dealt with after the swap they have had some problems with charging because the alt. is slowed down and these cars use a lot of electrical power at idle or stop lights. If you don't have a lot of stop lights to deal with then you'll be ok. If not, you will need to have your idle raised or put the stock alt. pulley back on.
 
driller said:
Beware of cheap pullers!
Click to expand...

I see I need to start proof reading my posts again...lol

Yes JP is very correct in what he said. DO NOT USE the standard gear pullers that have 2 or three prongs that pull from the outer edge. Those are gear pullers and not harmonic dampener pullers. Any of your parts stores will have the correct pullers just make sure you get the good ones. These are usually the ones that also supply the installer tool with a bearing to reinstall the dampener.
 
The stock alternator pulley with a Steeda crank pulley will give you charging issues at idle - not good for most instances.

You can fix this with an overdrive pulley(smaller) from PA Performance or FordFuelInjection. :)
 
I went through that myself besides other's vehicles. I think I have about 9 different size alt. pulleys now trying to fix the problem. Even with the idle increased by the time you get to the correct size they start to slip and eat the belt. I'm also running a 225 amp alt. I may have gotten them mixed up but the one I have on now seems to work as long as the battery is good. Leave the car sit for a few weeks and as soon as you idle to a light alarms start going off until you bring the rpms up.

I tried getting some custom made for the company from Reichard. They agreed but I had to supply the measurements. I supplied everything and even sent up a few pulleys for examples. Called them every month on the progress and each time it was give me a couple more weeks, we have a contract with Toyota and we can't keep up with the order. Then it was well if you were to buy say 1500 of them.... In other words they weren't interested in a little time company when they just hit it big with Toyota. A year of this and I gave up on them. It would certainly be nice to have one of their Ultra Grip pulleys. I have a new machine shop in mind that I may see what they will do for me.
 
If I remember right the stock one is 2-5/8" and the one I run is 1-7/8" diameter. I think a 2" or even a 2-1/8" may be just right, but it would need to be tested to be sure.

It would be cool if one could get a ultra-grip pulley.
 
I have all those, running the 48mm produces too much slip. I've even reclocked the tensioner and belt changes. The 225 amp takes a lot to turn it and there isn't enough rap around the pulley to get a good grip. So I'm running the 57mm now. But then the car isn't driven anymore until I get a chance to replace the TC and transmission so it's on the back burner to figure out.
 
seems like alot more work then i imagined do you think its worth all the trouble for the gains? or would i be better off just getting a chip instead.
 
You get around 5 - 8 hp from the pulleys besides the quicker rate of engine acceleration. Where as you will pick up more hp from custom programming the EEC. It's up to the individual and what they are willing to spend.
 
im willing to do the work and they are cheaper than a chip so i think ill manage. thanks for the info its helped me alot
 
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I'd think that it would make the most sense to do it WITH the chip, so you could raise the idle and take care of the whole thing. Yeah, it's more expensive for both of 'em, but I think it's worth it.
 
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