I replied to a different post about this subject and found no answer....So I'll post it as a question for all. I did the sensor lowering. I did the back by the instructions listed. I did the front differently, but can't get it lower than it currently is since the sensor is completely compressed the way I have it right now. The instructions on the FAQ/How-to page did not mention that some brackets have a slot cut out in them, so moving the bracket isn't necessary. I left the bracket in the factory position, loosened the ball socket the sensor is attached to, and rasised the ball socket to the maximum position in the slot. BUT, the sensor was then completely compressed. I assumed that would "slam" the car, but I tried it out to see what it looked like. I was dissapointed. It has nearly 2" of gap from fender to tire. The back is right around 1/2" with plenty more where that came from to work with. So, how can I get the car lower in the front? Moving the bracket won't compensate for the sensor already being at it's maximum compression. At least it feels like it's completely compressed. I also get the "check air ride suspension" fault on the info center when I get over 65 for any length of time. If I shut it off and restart then stay under the drop down speed, I'm fine. I think it's because the car isn't level, since the back drops and the front is down as far as the sensor lets it. Correct me if I am wrong here ok. I want the front lower if anyone can guide me to it. Thanks
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What's the fix if it don't go lower?
- Thread starter jjmoriset
- Start date
GRAND_LS 400
Registered
RE: What's the fix if it don't go lower?
I don’t really understand what you actually did, but if the compressor was truly compressed, your front end would be touching the ground. Btw, when compressed, the sensor is like 3inches long. You have to drill below the factory middle slot (on the bracket), and then use the TOP slot in the FRAME to hang it on there….. don’t know if im making sense, but that’s how I did it.
I don’t really understand what you actually did, but if the compressor was truly compressed, your front end would be touching the ground. Btw, when compressed, the sensor is like 3inches long. You have to drill below the factory middle slot (on the bracket), and then use the TOP slot in the FRAME to hang it on there….. don’t know if im making sense, but that’s how I did it.
RE: What's the fix if it don't go lower?
It sounds like you did it right to me. With sensor lowering, what you are trying to do is compress the sensor completely. The error is probably because of what you already expect, a problem with the rear being too low.
The sensor lowering mod is different from car to car. Some will get a 1" drop, some will get 3". I don't really know how to explain it, but that is what I have found over the last few years.
To get it to go lower you will have to dump out some air by using the solenoids - OR - you can be the guinea pig for the "magic box". Either way, you're going to have to access the suspension computer and splice some wires.
What wheel/tire combo are you running?
Kale
It sounds like you did it right to me. With sensor lowering, what you are trying to do is compress the sensor completely. The error is probably because of what you already expect, a problem with the rear being too low.
The sensor lowering mod is different from car to car. Some will get a 1" drop, some will get 3". I don't really know how to explain it, but that is what I have found over the last few years.
To get it to go lower you will have to dump out some air by using the solenoids - OR - you can be the guinea pig for the "magic box". Either way, you're going to have to access the suspension computer and splice some wires.
What wheel/tire combo are you running?
Kale
RE: What's the fix if it don't go lower?
From your description you just made it go as low as the factory settings will allow. You have to drill the hole and move the bracket up. You might have to put a jack under the control arm to give the sensor some room to reattach. I just did mine, and I thought I wouldn't be able to get that sensor back on, but jacking up the control arm makes the upper control arm go up also, thus giving some more space to work with. It will go lower if you drill that puppy.
From your description you just made it go as low as the factory settings will allow. You have to drill the hole and move the bracket up. You might have to put a jack under the control arm to give the sensor some room to reattach. I just did mine, and I thought I wouldn't be able to get that sensor back on, but jacking up the control arm makes the upper control arm go up also, thus giving some more space to work with. It will go lower if you drill that puppy.
RE: What's the fix if it don't go lower?
I have factory lacy spokes and factory size tires. I just see other peoples lowering jobs and the front tires are in the fenders. I have nearly 2" gap. The back I can adjust for days. I just want the front to get as low as the back can.
I have factory lacy spokes and factory size tires. I just see other peoples lowering jobs and the front tires are in the fenders. I have nearly 2" gap. The back I can adjust for days. I just want the front to get as low as the back can.
RE: What's the fix if it don't go lower?
Today I did redrill and relocate the bracket, BUT the sensor itself is fully compressed and won't allow for it to be reattached to the ball stud unless I move the ball stud down a scosche. Now that I've fiddled with it, the car is level and a bit lower, but not as low as I expected it to go.
Today I did redrill and relocate the bracket, BUT the sensor itself is fully compressed and won't allow for it to be reattached to the ball stud unless I move the ball stud down a scosche. Now that I've fiddled with it, the car is level and a bit lower, but not as low as I expected it to go.
RE: What's the fix if it don't go lower?
I can only suspect vent solenoids are the culprit,your comressor is allowing the vehicle to be raised'however your front vent solenoids may no longer be working,the vent solenoids allow air to escape the suspension system to drop the vehicle upon weight transfer,and speed increased upon reaching 65 mph +.
The strutmaster web page on this site refers you to these very items.
94 White Pearl Mark Owner
I can only suspect vent solenoids are the culprit,your comressor is allowing the vehicle to be raised'however your front vent solenoids may no longer be working,the vent solenoids allow air to escape the suspension system to drop the vehicle upon weight transfer,and speed increased upon reaching 65 mph +.
The strutmaster web page on this site refers you to these very items.
94 White Pearl Mark Owner
RE: What's the fix if it don't go lower?
The thing is they are venting, but mostly at shut down. I can hear them vent and I can measure the gap and it's noticeably lower after a few minutes and more overnight. But every once in awhile I get the error message when I get up to speed. I'm just suspecting that it's because the car wasn't level to begin with. That part is fixed now. Haven't seen that in a few days. I just thought these cars were supposed to get lower than this at maximum lowering on the sensor. Kale cleared that up for me earlier.
The thing is they are venting, but mostly at shut down. I can hear them vent and I can measure the gap and it's noticeably lower after a few minutes and more overnight. But every once in awhile I get the error message when I get up to speed. I'm just suspecting that it's because the car wasn't level to begin with. That part is fixed now. Haven't seen that in a few days. I just thought these cars were supposed to get lower than this at maximum lowering on the sensor. Kale cleared that up for me earlier.
RE: What's the fix if it don't go lower?
There are no dedicated front "vent" solenoids. The way it works is you have a solenoid operated valve at each corner which allows air to go into and out of the bag. To vent, you open a separate solenoid valve located in the same system. All airlines are connected. It is the comination of opening the bag valves, running the compressor, and opening the vent valve that controls the ride height adjustment.
For instance, with the compressor running and the front valves open, the front raises. With the front valves open and the vent valve open, the front drops. It's actually very simple:
http://www.lincolnmarkviii.org/suspension/suspension/m8stocksystem2.gif
Worth mentioning is the fact that it takes 100psi to raise the front. If you have a leaky strut, the pressure inside the bag will drop dramatically and cause the compressor to work much harder to raise the car. So instead of having to go from 110-120psi, you now need to raise the pressure from 60psi to 120psi (the lower amount being determined by how bad of a leak you have). This is why it is so important to replace the airbags when you find out you have a leak.
Kale
There are no dedicated front "vent" solenoids. The way it works is you have a solenoid operated valve at each corner which allows air to go into and out of the bag. To vent, you open a separate solenoid valve located in the same system. All airlines are connected. It is the comination of opening the bag valves, running the compressor, and opening the vent valve that controls the ride height adjustment.
For instance, with the compressor running and the front valves open, the front raises. With the front valves open and the vent valve open, the front drops. It's actually very simple:
http://www.lincolnmarkviii.org/suspension/suspension/m8stocksystem2.gif
Worth mentioning is the fact that it takes 100psi to raise the front. If you have a leaky strut, the pressure inside the bag will drop dramatically and cause the compressor to work much harder to raise the car. So instead of having to go from 110-120psi, you now need to raise the pressure from 60psi to 120psi (the lower amount being determined by how bad of a leak you have). This is why it is so important to replace the airbags when you find out you have a leak.
Kale