I am going to replace my warped rotors next week,I am going to use the 1998 Mark rotors,I went to tire rack and saw the Brembo plain rotors for 41 for front and 35 for rear each rotor...but then I saw for 150 for a set I could get the EBC sport grooved rotors...its not much more $$$ so would you go with the EBC or the plain Brembos?Let me know...also how do I keep my rotors from warping again I hear this a problem with Gen 1 cars.Which pads should I use with each set up ?Thanks for your help
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which rotors?
- Thread starter viiiball
- Start date
RE: which rotors?
I don't know about Gen I cars, but I do know it was a problem with Gen II cars. My car (1998) needed rotors at 3,000, 6,000 and 9,000 miles. Then again at 11,000 miles. The last set (11,000 miles) lasted until I sold it at 22,000 miles they were still great. I think Ford changed them, because I did not change and none of my other cars ever needed rotors. I think I'd go with a new set from Ford, for the MK 8. It seems to me that they did something to fix the problem, as I am sure 10,000 of the 14,000 sold came back for multiple sets, as did I.......
I don't know about Gen I cars, but I do know it was a problem with Gen II cars. My car (1998) needed rotors at 3,000, 6,000 and 9,000 miles. Then again at 11,000 miles. The last set (11,000 miles) lasted until I sold it at 22,000 miles they were still great. I think Ford changed them, because I did not change and none of my other cars ever needed rotors. I think I'd go with a new set from Ford, for the MK 8. It seems to me that they did something to fix the problem, as I am sure 10,000 of the 14,000 sold came back for multiple sets, as did I.......
RE: which rotors?
Go with the the 98 rotors, and if you can afford them get the Ceramix pads. I've been using this combination for about two months with absolutely splendid results. whatever pads you choose, sould seem to be ok, but under no circumstances buy the rotors designed for the 93-95. If I'm not mistaken the 96-98 are all the same, and are a much better product.
Go with the the 98 rotors, and if you can afford them get the Ceramix pads. I've been using this combination for about two months with absolutely splendid results. whatever pads you choose, sould seem to be ok, but under no circumstances buy the rotors designed for the 93-95. If I'm not mistaken the 96-98 are all the same, and are a much better product.
RE: which rotors?
I had my 98 LSC rotors replaced by Ford while it was still under warranty and those rotors still warpped after about 7K or so. That was back in early 2002, so those factory rotors still went bad. I'm using the Raybestos ceramic pads with them. I plan on getting a set of the Brembos from TireRack soon. A friend had warping problems on another car, and the Brembos finally fixed it after many other rotors, so I'm hoping it works on the Mark VIII too.
Watch out for cross drilled or slotted rotors. I knew that cross driller rotors tended to warp and stress crack with heat at the holes. I was reading the web site for one of the companies about pros and cons of slotted vs drilled vs plain rotors, can't remember which one now though. They didn't recommend cross drilled for street because of the stress cracking unless you were really using them for performance and needed the cooling, but were willing to change them frequently. They said that slotted rotors didn't crack or warp as much. But they did heat up more and could be prone to more warping, but braking was usually a little better than standard rotor because the slots let the gases escape and kept cutting a clean edge in the pads with the slots. Due to the heating up and possible warping with slotted rotors, I figured it might be safer to go with a goos set pf plain rotrs since we already seem to have a warping problem on the Mark VIII's.
Just my thinking, but let us know how you do with what you get. I figure the plain Brembos are also a lot cheaper if they do warp than a set of the more expensive slotted rotors.
Bill
98 Mark VIII LSC - Silver - 59K mi
86 Mark VII LSC - Black - 242K mi
More Info In Profile - Member Since Dec 2000
I had my 98 LSC rotors replaced by Ford while it was still under warranty and those rotors still warpped after about 7K or so. That was back in early 2002, so those factory rotors still went bad. I'm using the Raybestos ceramic pads with them. I plan on getting a set of the Brembos from TireRack soon. A friend had warping problems on another car, and the Brembos finally fixed it after many other rotors, so I'm hoping it works on the Mark VIII too.
Watch out for cross drilled or slotted rotors. I knew that cross driller rotors tended to warp and stress crack with heat at the holes. I was reading the web site for one of the companies about pros and cons of slotted vs drilled vs plain rotors, can't remember which one now though. They didn't recommend cross drilled for street because of the stress cracking unless you were really using them for performance and needed the cooling, but were willing to change them frequently. They said that slotted rotors didn't crack or warp as much. But they did heat up more and could be prone to more warping, but braking was usually a little better than standard rotor because the slots let the gases escape and kept cutting a clean edge in the pads with the slots. Due to the heating up and possible warping with slotted rotors, I figured it might be safer to go with a goos set pf plain rotrs since we already seem to have a warping problem on the Mark VIII's.
Just my thinking, but let us know how you do with what you get. I figure the plain Brembos are also a lot cheaper if they do warp than a set of the more expensive slotted rotors.
Bill
98 Mark VIII LSC - Silver - 59K mi
86 Mark VII LSC - Black - 242K mi
More Info In Profile - Member Since Dec 2000
RE: which rotors?
Cool, now I have more hope that the Brembo's will help get rid of the warpping. I've been using the ceramics in front on my 98 LSC, I've been happy with them.
Wanna hear about bad prices? I just had to buy a set of rear rotors for my 86 LSC. No one carries the normal rotors anymore, just the "heavy duty" version. So you can't get the $30 rotors that I got a few years back. Now they are all $60-$70 each. And the best part, what I bought a few years back as the cheap standard rotor, it is now the same thing as the supposed "heavy duty" rotor, it just costs twice as much! Gotta love it! Before, the heavy duty rotor was totally cast, not composite, and had directional cooling vanes. Now it's just the same as the old cheap rotor with straight cooling vanes, but I really don't have much other choice. I had a caliper stick, and a pad really gouged one rotor up. I may still be able to get it turned, but I figured I'd go with new rotors now anyway, and save the old ones in case I have to turn those if prices get higher in the future.
Bill
98 Mark VIII LSC - Silver - 59K mi
86 Mark VII LSC - Black - 242K mi
More Info In Profile - Member Since Dec 2000
Cool, now I have more hope that the Brembo's will help get rid of the warpping. I've been using the ceramics in front on my 98 LSC, I've been happy with them.
Wanna hear about bad prices? I just had to buy a set of rear rotors for my 86 LSC. No one carries the normal rotors anymore, just the "heavy duty" version. So you can't get the $30 rotors that I got a few years back. Now they are all $60-$70 each. And the best part, what I bought a few years back as the cheap standard rotor, it is now the same thing as the supposed "heavy duty" rotor, it just costs twice as much! Gotta love it! Before, the heavy duty rotor was totally cast, not composite, and had directional cooling vanes. Now it's just the same as the old cheap rotor with straight cooling vanes, but I really don't have much other choice. I had a caliper stick, and a pad really gouged one rotor up. I may still be able to get it turned, but I figured I'd go with new rotors now anyway, and save the old ones in case I have to turn those if prices get higher in the future.
Bill
98 Mark VIII LSC - Silver - 59K mi
86 Mark VII LSC - Black - 242K mi
More Info In Profile - Member Since Dec 2000