Winter storage

B

Brett

Registered
Today I rented a space to park my Mark VIII over the winter and thought I would ask for opinions on storage proceedures.

The area that I will be parking in is an old barn that has been converted to store cars. The floor is crushed gravel with a concrete
laneway in the middle and parking spots on either side.

I will have the Mark undercoated/oil sprayed before it is stored.

Vehicle will be stored Nov 2003 until at least May 2004, (winter last a long time here in Canada).

Last year I put the old tires and rims back on and just parked in an outdoor fenced area with the battery connected and air ride off and a car cover.

After extensive body work, I will now keep the car indoors for the winter.


My questions are:

What do members think of lifting the car up on axle stands versus just sitting with air ride off? (The tires and rims are used only to park over the winter and drive to and from parking)


Should plastic sheeting be placed under the car versus just parking on the crushed gravel floor? (The building is very dry, in fact a little too dusty and the Mark will have a cover)

Will the battery removal cause any computer problems?

What is the best fuel level for a six month storage?
(Last year I filled it with Sonoco 94 Octane and started it every few weeks, this year I may not be starting the car, so was thinking of Stabalizers and Sonoco 94 at about 1/4 tank)

Any other comments, suggestions would be appreciated.
 
RE: Winter storage

Fill it all the way with fuel. That is an absolute must, because you want to avoid condensation in the tank. You may consider adding some sta-bil, but it really isn't necessary. The only reason to lift the vehicle would be to protect the tires, but if they're just used to store it, don't bother lifting it. I'd disconnect the battery, i don't think you'll have any computer problems from doing that. Just clean it up real good, park it, and pull the battery.
 
RE: Winter storage

I wouldn't worry about raising the car. I think that was a theory to extend the life of coil springs and keep the tires from touching the ground but in my experience neither has any real benefit for a 6 month storage.

The plastic sheeting won't help. Spraying the underside with oil (not undercoating)is a very effective tool for cars in the moisture and rust belt areas. Keep the oil away from the airbags.

No problem with battery removeal.

Any fuel is fine. Run the tank low then fill it just before storage. You won't have any problem there.

My biggest concern would be who will be parking beside you, Is there controlled access to the building (only car owners can get in) and do they have any rodent/mice controls in place. Definitely use a high quality car cover $120-150 price range. It wouldn't hurt to change the oil right before it goes in storage.
Also you may consider placing blocks under the frame so if/when all the air leaks out the car will come to rest on the blocks and not the bump stops. This will keep it farther away from the ground too.
 
RE: Winter storage

I'd wait until spring to change the oil. That way, any water that ends up in the oil from condensation during the winter will be removed. I don't think it will matter how dirty the oil is sitting in the oil pan all winter.

I regularly spray the rust-prone areas of my car with WD-40. It seems to work great for me. I asked a guy in the paint group here at TACOM, and they say that tests don't show that WD-40 prevents corrosion. The explanation he gave for that was that the aerosol propellants are corrosive, and they counteract the rust-preventative qualities of the WD-40. So i buy it in a jug and dump it into a spray bottle, rather than use it out of the can.

I asked my dad what he does when he stores his boat for the winter. He fills the tank all the way with gas and doesn't use any fuel stabilizer. He hasn't had a problem with that yet.

No matter how long winter may seem in the middle of January, it really isn't that long to store a car. Last year i washed my car and parked it in the garage. Didn't do anything special with it, even fill it with gas. Whenever the roads were nice and dry enough to drive my lincoln on, i pulled it out and took it for a long enough drive to let it warm up.
 
RE: Winter storage

Randy:
A winter car is not an issue at my house, I own the following:
1990 Delta 88, 1995 Windstar GL, 1998 Windstar LX, and the Mark VIII.

I drive the Mark VIII only in the summer and the 98 Windstar all year round.

My wife drives the 95 Windstar, and my son drives the Delta 88.
 
RE: Winter storage

Last year I changed the oil the day I put the car in storage and then again when I brought it out in the spring. I figured it only cost a few dollars so why not be safe.
 
RE: Winter storage

I just dropped the Mark off at Ziebart to have it sprayed with a
non drying oil based product and be washed and waxed.

I plan on putting the Mark away in mid Oct. and after the oil spraying only an oil change and the winter tires/rims will be reguired before storage.

As for the safety of the parking, the barn is used exclusively by car clubs and collectors. Spaces are set to allow opening of the car doors on either side. The owner lives on the farm, so access is controlled, but entry is discouraged as he is very concerned about "His Cars".

I had to bring my Mark out and be interviewed before I could rent a spot.

Rent is only $30CDN ($20 US) per month!
I have paid for 1 spot for 6 months, but I will ask about 1 1/2 spaces.

I asked about rodents and was told that there had not been any in the barn in the last few years. The cars that where in the barn showed now signs of damage. I plan on putting a poison bait packet in a plastic pan on the floor.

I have a good quality cover and will use either blocks or axle stands to relieve some of the weight off the car and provide a stop in cause of a air leak.
 
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