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93 Lincoln Mark VIII with JBL Sound – Aftermarket Stereo Installation Eliminating the JBL Amplifier
Here is the link with pictures:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/jos3n8d5a...lation Eliminating the JBL Amplifier.pdf?dl=0
1. Buy a Metra 70+5514 or Scosche FDK8B amp bypass harness. This write-up is for Metra harness. NOTE: ONLY THE PIGTAIL CONNECTORS FROM ANY OF THE HARNESS KIT WILL BE USED AS THEY ARE; THE CONNECTOR-TO-CONNECTOR HARNESS WILL NEED TO BE MODIFIED AS EXPLAINED HEREWITH
2. Start with the original 93 Lincoln Mark VIII JBL wiring diagram. If your aftermarket stereo has 6 or 8 channels, then you will use this original diagram for your wiring.
Original wiring diagram - 93 Lincoln Mark VIII w/JBL
3. If you have a 4-channel aftermarket stereo (front left, front right, rear left and rear right channels), you will need to modify the original wiring diagram as pictured below:
As you see, the right and left woofers (door and rear big speakers) are spliced into a left and right tweeter channel respectively.
4. Remove the original head unit using two U-shaped special pins; Crutchfield will enclose these pins for free along with the bypass harness mentioned at ¶1.
5. Unsnap the connectors from the back of the head unit.
6. Wire the wide pigtail connector that is part of your harness kit to your 12V+power/antenna/ground/illumination/etc. pigtail connector that comes with your aftermarket stereo, following the wiring instructions of your stereo. NOTE: not all of the pigtail wires may be in use in your application; the harness kit comes with wiring instructions. Your aftermarket connector will then plug into the gray DB-14489-E female connector pictured in ¶5.
7. Cut off the other black, square 8-pin female connector to expose the speaker wires. This is the cable that goes into the amp that is installed in the trunk.
8. Splice your aftermarket’s speaker connector pigtail to these 8 wires, making a note of which color wire was connected to which color speaker wire.
9. Open the trunk and expose the JBL amp mounting tray (that is located inside the trunk, under the rear window) by pulling down on the insulation. Then, unsnap the mounting tray by prying down with a screwdriver and lower the tray to expose the amp.
10. Remove the connectors from the back of the amp and then remove the amp.
11. Cut the black connector off the blue F3LF-14… cable to expose the speaker wires that are coming from the dashboard.
12. This is where all Metra/Scosche harnesses FAIL: they instruct you to connect the cables removed from the amp to the amp bypass harness (shown below in ¶13. DON’T DO THAT; it’s like disconnecting a hose from the hose bib and reconnecting that end to the other end of the hose just because the fittings match. No wonder why it took me a while to troubleshoot this. THEREFORE, DO NOT DO THIS:
DO THIS INSTEAD:
13. Cut the “two-connector bypass harness” pictured above in half, or use splicing connectors to splice the speaker wires that come from the dashboard into this harness as described further.
14. Cut the four colored wires (marked below) off the existing connector; these four wires will be spliced to the appropriate speaker wires later. Leave the three yellow and the three black/green wires alone; they are part of the cell phone circuit. The 3 yellow wires are constant 12V (+) and the three black/green are ground.
15. Now the fun part: Inside the trunk, connect each speaker wire coming from the dash board (shown in ¶11) to:
· the LEFT side connector wires shown in ¶13 (this connector will fit the black/red connector shown on the right side of pic in ¶11), and to
· the four marked wires pictured in ¶14.
NOTE: The easiest way would be to make your own note on a blank piece of paper; write which wire goes to which wire because in the trunk you will be contorted (small space) and will get frustrated in a hurry; so, making this note will ensure you don’t screw anything up by mixing up the wires.
16. After everything is done, double check all the connections.
17. Connect the head unit and turn it on. If everything works correctly, use copious amounts of electrical tape to isolate all the spliced wires and then finally install the head unit in the dashboard and the amp tray back in the trunk.
18. Enjoy the music!
NOTE: If your aftermarket unit has USB/MicroSD input and you like to listen to your own music, anytime you turn the stereo on (or the ignition on) the antenna will extend, and when turning the ignite off the antenna will retract (if this was an option on your stock stereo). THIS IS ANNOYING! What I did was installing a toggle switch in-line with the antenna trigger wire. This way, when I listen to my MP3s I flip the toggle switch off and the antenna will stay retracted. If I want to listen to the radio, I just flip the toggle switch ON and enjoy the over-the-air programming.
Here is the link with pictures:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/jos3n8d5a...lation Eliminating the JBL Amplifier.pdf?dl=0
1. Buy a Metra 70+5514 or Scosche FDK8B amp bypass harness. This write-up is for Metra harness. NOTE: ONLY THE PIGTAIL CONNECTORS FROM ANY OF THE HARNESS KIT WILL BE USED AS THEY ARE; THE CONNECTOR-TO-CONNECTOR HARNESS WILL NEED TO BE MODIFIED AS EXPLAINED HEREWITH
2. Start with the original 93 Lincoln Mark VIII JBL wiring diagram. If your aftermarket stereo has 6 or 8 channels, then you will use this original diagram for your wiring.
Original wiring diagram - 93 Lincoln Mark VIII w/JBL
3. If you have a 4-channel aftermarket stereo (front left, front right, rear left and rear right channels), you will need to modify the original wiring diagram as pictured below:
As you see, the right and left woofers (door and rear big speakers) are spliced into a left and right tweeter channel respectively.
4. Remove the original head unit using two U-shaped special pins; Crutchfield will enclose these pins for free along with the bypass harness mentioned at ¶1.
5. Unsnap the connectors from the back of the head unit.
6. Wire the wide pigtail connector that is part of your harness kit to your 12V+power/antenna/ground/illumination/etc. pigtail connector that comes with your aftermarket stereo, following the wiring instructions of your stereo. NOTE: not all of the pigtail wires may be in use in your application; the harness kit comes with wiring instructions. Your aftermarket connector will then plug into the gray DB-14489-E female connector pictured in ¶5.
7. Cut off the other black, square 8-pin female connector to expose the speaker wires. This is the cable that goes into the amp that is installed in the trunk.
8. Splice your aftermarket’s speaker connector pigtail to these 8 wires, making a note of which color wire was connected to which color speaker wire.
9. Open the trunk and expose the JBL amp mounting tray (that is located inside the trunk, under the rear window) by pulling down on the insulation. Then, unsnap the mounting tray by prying down with a screwdriver and lower the tray to expose the amp.
10. Remove the connectors from the back of the amp and then remove the amp.
11. Cut the black connector off the blue F3LF-14… cable to expose the speaker wires that are coming from the dashboard.
12. This is where all Metra/Scosche harnesses FAIL: they instruct you to connect the cables removed from the amp to the amp bypass harness (shown below in ¶13. DON’T DO THAT; it’s like disconnecting a hose from the hose bib and reconnecting that end to the other end of the hose just because the fittings match. No wonder why it took me a while to troubleshoot this. THEREFORE, DO NOT DO THIS:
DO THIS INSTEAD:
13. Cut the “two-connector bypass harness” pictured above in half, or use splicing connectors to splice the speaker wires that come from the dashboard into this harness as described further.
14. Cut the four colored wires (marked below) off the existing connector; these four wires will be spliced to the appropriate speaker wires later. Leave the three yellow and the three black/green wires alone; they are part of the cell phone circuit. The 3 yellow wires are constant 12V (+) and the three black/green are ground.
15. Now the fun part: Inside the trunk, connect each speaker wire coming from the dash board (shown in ¶11) to:
· the LEFT side connector wires shown in ¶13 (this connector will fit the black/red connector shown on the right side of pic in ¶11), and to
· the four marked wires pictured in ¶14.
NOTE: The easiest way would be to make your own note on a blank piece of paper; write which wire goes to which wire because in the trunk you will be contorted (small space) and will get frustrated in a hurry; so, making this note will ensure you don’t screw anything up by mixing up the wires.
16. After everything is done, double check all the connections.
17. Connect the head unit and turn it on. If everything works correctly, use copious amounts of electrical tape to isolate all the spliced wires and then finally install the head unit in the dashboard and the amp tray back in the trunk.
18. Enjoy the music!
NOTE: If your aftermarket unit has USB/MicroSD input and you like to listen to your own music, anytime you turn the stereo on (or the ignition on) the antenna will extend, and when turning the ignite off the antenna will retract (if this was an option on your stock stereo). THIS IS ANNOYING! What I did was installing a toggle switch in-line with the antenna trigger wire. This way, when I listen to my MP3s I flip the toggle switch off and the antenna will stay retracted. If I want to listen to the radio, I just flip the toggle switch ON and enjoy the over-the-air programming.
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