Need help with CEL codes 214, 327, 565

[ovysimac]

I have a CEL with the following symptom: Engine (at operating temp as well as when cold) often stalls from dead stop when pushing the gas pedal; it will not stall if accelerator is depressed SLOWLY. After scanning for codes I got:

• KOEO: codes 327, 565
• CM: codes 214, 327

The OBD-I scanner book says to fix the KOEO codes before moving forward to KOER scanning. The book also describes these codes as:

1. 214 - cylinder identification circuit failure
2. 327 - EGR valve position circuit below min. voltage
3. 565 - canister purge solenoid circuit failure.

I don’t have any Mark VIII repair literature besides the somewhat cryptic 1993 FORD Shop CD, so before going any further (or even worse, getting my indie involved) I’d like to ask all Mark VIII gurus for some advice, as this forum is a trove of very useful information:

1. The obvious question is: are these codes described correctly in my OBD-I book? If not, please give me the correct description of each code.
2. For each code, what action should I accomplish to eliminate the problem. Step-by-step instructions would be ideal. I’m not that mechanically talented and as I age my patience with fixing cars grows ever short…

Car is actually my daily driver and because I don’t have to smog it I learned to ignore the CEL but I’d like to fix this stalling/CEL.
Thank you all for your support/advice.

 

[driller]

When dealing with multiple codes, I was always told to clear the CEL and check for the first code to come back.

Quite honestly, I don't see any of the posted codes causing the stalling symptoms you describe. It sounds more like a lean tip-in issue. Having said that, I would first check the TPS for smooth responsiveness, clean the MAF sensor and look for any possible vacuum leak.

 

[chris2523]

you probably need a DPFE.
they do occasionally cause idle or running issues.
on a 93, you'll have to replace the connector as the plastic uses the newer style. the old one is probably metal housing still.

you could unplug it and see if it changes.

as i recall, it used to be standard operating procedure to question the DPFE first with most any egr related codes.

 

[ONLYTONY]

I did the jumper test on my 95, and it came up EGR. Got my OBD-1 tester back, and it came up DPFE. Got one from RA. They have 2 different DPFE's, and you have to get the one that matches your plug. The vacuum hoses just make it on length

 

[billcu]

A quick way to test to see if the DPFE is opening the EGR valve at the wrong time, and causing the stalling, is to disconnect the vacuum line from the EGR valve, plug it, and drive the car to see if it still stalls.

 

[ovysimac]

Bill,

I did just that (disconnected the vacuum line from the EGR and plugged it) and the engine was running like crap (very rough, as in 5-6 cylinders) so I did not even take it out of the garage for a drive to see if it would stall (meaningless at this point); I just plugged the vacuum line back to the EGR. The car runs as before ( smooth but sometimes stalls from dead stop). Oh well, at least I grew used to it (been driving it like this for the last 10 -15 thousand miles, so no biggie...).

As to accessing the DPFE, I tried to remove the air cowl covers, disconnected the hood links, propped the hood straight up and the only thing I achieved is cracking my windshield. No matter how many cushions I put between the hood and windshield (a rolled carpet and an old sheepskin seat cover), the darn lower edge of the hood which before removing the plastic covers rested on them now after removing them it rested on the cushions because the hood is very heavy, the lower edge found its way against the lower edge of the windshield, cracking it.

SO BEWARE!!
IF YOU EVER REMOVE THE AIR COWL COVERS AND INTEND TO REST THE HOOD AGAINTS THE WINDSHIELD, NO MATTER WHAT CUSHION YOU USE IT WILL CRACK YOUR WINDSHIELD! PROP THE HOOD VERTICALLY SO THAT IT DOES NOT TOUCH THE BOTTOM OF THE WINDSHIELD, OR SIMPLY TAKE THE HOOD OUT COMPLETELY.

How in the world can a normal person (with regular hands) access this DPFE? I read your post from June 2016 but I can't reach to the darn DPFE to try and replace it.

 

[chris2523]

the 1st time, i removed the hood and cowl.
the 2nd time, i pulled the engine.

 

[billcu]

If it still ran bad with the vacuum to the EGR disconnected, there might be a problem with the EGR valve. The EGR valve should be open only when vacuum is applied. I would test that too. Just apply vacuum to the EGR, when the car is idling with a hand pump, to check that it's working. With vacuum it should idle bad, without vacuum it should idle fine.

 

[ONLYTONY]

I just changed the DPFE on my 95. Just removed the cowl, and wiper motor, and it wasn't that hard to do. I didn't un hook the hood. I put a couple of moving blankets over the engine, and climb right in and lay down to do the job, easier for this old fart.
EDISON once, said, Never stand, when you can sit, and Never sit, when you can lay down. Sorry to hear about your windshield.