98 Mark SC Build

Mike, I love the stock gen 2 tips, they look way cleaner than those LS1 tips. The only thing is I would have extended them a little bit more past the bumper cut out for less drone and more of an aggressive look.
 
Wow, Mike first off, exhaust looks great !! And second off, I really disliked those square tips on your car, I didn't want to say anything while they were on the car but now that they are off !!! WORLD of difference, the square shape just doesn’t go with this the smooth curves of a gen 2 but the oval ones look great.

Keep posting those progress pics. I want to know what it runs !!!!
 
Thanks, Guys :) I like the stock tips, and I am very pleased that Todd took the time to make the 2 1/2" pipe fit. I can't say enough good things about him and Bryan. They are the best. :)

The Mark is now on it's way to Joey's shop to have intercooler tubing done. The tubing air flow will run from the compressor across the engine bay to the drivers side of the IC. Then, tubing will run from the passenger side of the IC back through the stock intake area to the shiney pipe leading to the throttle body.

The plan is to have this done by next Monday, and then back to Aric's shop, where he has to take all the parts back off the car that are being powder coated, and send them out the door for about a week to be coated.

Then it should be time to fire the beast up :)

Meanwhile, Aric is working on the Brembo's and Forgeline wheel fitment issues. Might have to go with another wheel that will clear the brakes, or the other way around.
 
My first choice for the fronts are 4 piston caliper Brembo's, made for the 94-03 Mustang, made for 18" rims, and using 14" 2 piece rotors. P/N 1B1.8001A. The rears are getting the stock caliper extension and Cobra rotors.

That is, if Aric can design the rim I posted before to fit. I picked one other rim that is similar in design, from another company, that appears to have more of a bow to allow these brakes to fit, but he is making calls to see what his options are.

If the Brembo's won't make it, then 2 piston Baer, AP, Cobra's, etc. will be used. We just have to wait and see what he can come up with. :)






4piston_f50.jpg
 
Mike you don't need those Brembo gran turisimo brakes unless you are doing some serious road course racing... waste of money in my opinion.
 
Mike I've followed your build and I'm wondering . . .with your obvious concern for quality and performance why didn't you go with after-market heads an a new bottom end?


Steve
 
Thanks, Guys. Todd and Bryan do amazing work.

lol, I think the 6 piston Brembo's are overkill, not the 4 piston. :)

Steve, I had to draw a line somewhere. I have read, and been told by engine builders, the B heads and stock bottom end will safely handle up to 450 rwhp, and live a long and happy life if properly maintained, and tuned correctly.

For now, that much power is just fine with me. If I blow the motor up, you can be sure that the new one will have a forged bottom end and more boost.
 
You can't just give out a number like that and say it will be reliable... there are a lot of factors involved. 450rwhp with a blower is a lot more stress than 450hp with nitrous or a turbo... it takes a lot of horsepower just to run the blower so if you are making 450rwhp it really is making a lot more at the crank. Also, the tune is important (run conservative timing and air fuel ratios), I would say don't go over 400rwhp for a reliable blower setup.
 
46callaway said:
450rwhp with a blower is a lot more stress than 450hp with nitrous or a turbo
Click to expand...

Can't agree with you there.....a nitrous kit is way worse than a blower, AND a turbo, and I'd say a blower is better than a turbo too, because it takes more power to get the turbos going vs. a blower that runs off a belt.

Nitrous is no where close to being as reliable/damage free than a s/c.

46callaway said:
it takes a lot of horsepower just to run the blower
Click to expand...

Hows that? A stock engine car run a blower. A blower is just like running an alternator, its just a bit more draw on the engine, but does NO damage at all. All its doing is forcing air, unlike nitrous that is pushing harmfull gases into the cylinders.

46callaway said:
if you are making 450rwhp it really is making a lot more at the crank.
Click to expand...

This is true...thats why they call it RWHP(rear wheel horse power), more rwhp ALWAYS means more hp at the crank.

I would say for a power adder, a supercharger is VERY reliable, expecially if its not pushing a lot of boost!
 
Here is what Aric has come up with for the brakes, wheels, and tires:

LRS-M2300X Ford Racing/Brembo 13in 2000 Cobra R Front Brake Kit

BB-136-2261002 Baer Eradispeed Extreme Plus 2 piece Front Brake Rotors for 1999-2004 Mustang Cobra

LRS-DP31031C EBC Brake Pads for 2000 Cobra R/Brembo Brakes

OEM-9904HABA Front Hub and Bearing Assembly for 1999-2004 Mustang Cobra

BB-136-2262001 Baer Eradispeed Extreme Plus 2 piece Rear brake rotors for 1999-2004 Mustang Cobra

FoMoCo-YR3Z1109AA Rear Hub for 1999-2004 Mustang Cobra IRS

FoMoCo-E9DZ1215A Rear Wheel Bearing for 1999-2004 Mustang Cobra IRS

OEM-BR57B Rear brake pads for 1994-1998 Lincoln Mark VIII

BE-9698MVIII Big Ed's Caliper Relocation Kit

FORGELINE Forgeline Custom Wheels (2 VR3P 18x10.5 Powder Coated with a polished lip)

FORGELINE Forgeline Custom Wheels (2 VR3P 18x9 Powder Coated with a polished lip)

LUG Custom Lug Nuts

Tires Toyo Proxes 255-35-18

Tires Toyo Proxes 285-35-18
 
mlschultz said:
Tires Toyo Proxes 255-35-18

Tires Toyo Proxes 285-35-18
Click to expand...

Your tire selection may cause problems with the Traction Control system. You need to make sure the they are about the height front/back. So I would suggest a 255-40-18 or 245-40-18<< easy to find. But it may be a bit narrow for a 9" wheel. Although I did run 245s on my 9" wheels and they fit fine.

The COBRA R Brembos are a good choice, but make sure you get the stain-less steel lines as well. Otherwise you may as well go with the regular Cobra Brakes. And save yourself the extra $500
 
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J said:
Can't agree with you there.....a nitrous kit is way worse than a blower, AND a turbo, and I'd say a blower is better than a turbo too, because it takes more power to get the turbos going vs. a blower that runs off a belt.

Nitrous is no where close to being as reliable/damage free than a s/c.



Hows that? A stock engine car run a blower. A blower is just like running an alternator, its just a bit more draw on the engine, but does NO damage at all. All its doing is forcing air, unlike nitrous that is pushing harmfull gases into the cylinders.



This is true...thats why they call it RWHP(rear wheel horse power), more rwhp ALWAYS means more hp at the crank.

I would say for a power adder, a supercharger is VERY reliable, expecially if its not pushing a lot of boost!
Click to expand...

Normally I would agree with you J, but not this time. I've had conversations with Lonnie and some other folks; turbos make safer power than SCs...meaning you can go 475rwhp with a turbo and 450rwhp with an SC. This is because SCs have a lot higher parasitic power consumption than turbos.

And more rwhp DOES NOT mean more hp at the crank. I got 5-10 more rwhp (no extra flywheel hp) from Lonnie's TC because it is the only unit that fully locks up...without burning up.
 
Ok, but we can agree that nitrous doesn't come close to being as safe as a s/c or turbo right?

I guess I was thinking more on the same level as Serge when he said "it takes more horsepower to run a blower", so I'd say it takes way more power to run a turbo than a blower due to the fact you have to rev the engine to spool the turbos.

Thats true...upgrades after the crank won't necessarily give you more HP at the crank, but the majority of the time this holds true. :D
 
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