Misanthropy
Information Junkie
My car has ran through 2 alternators in 2 days and has had trouble in the past. Also some weird light flickering going on. Any quick suggestions before I go into more detail?
Bad Mojo
- Thread starter Misanthropy
- Start date
Do you have a voltmeter? I would test how much power is being put out by the alternator, then how much the battery is showing. Sounds like a bad ground somewhere. Where did you get the alternator from? I wouldnt touch anything other than an OEM or NAPA alternator. (at least here in Sac)
Misanthropy
Information Junkie
First one was my PA performance 130 output, before that it was like 5 oem ones and the one I put in after was OEM. OEM is just 125. Could my amplifier ground be messing it up?
If I blew a PA alternator, I'd be looking at my other areas of the electrical system, like the grounds.
jamies98lsc
Registered
what kind of stereo system are you running and what kind of aftermarket amps are we talking about? if you are pushing serious amp power, thats your problem. you may need a second alternator or some farad caps.
Misanthropy
Information Junkie
ok so here is the deal, it didn't blow the alternator on there. When I start the car the voltmeter tells me that the car is charging strong, then after about 10 seconds it it drops to low charge. Could a bad ground be doing this? if so any chance you know the common spots or should the manual show it?
Did you verify this with a volt meter?
+1 for Jamie....in the 4 years I had my car I went through 12 alternators (no joke) and I found the culprit to be the 2 15" subs/amp setup I had. I cut the box in half and ran only one 15" sub and got a smaller amp and it helped but it didn't fix it. I didn't have any issues until I installed the stereo system.
I found that the alternator would fail most often when I would go on WOT runs. I tried capasitors and they didn't help, heck they made it worse for some reason.
Ooooohhhh....I forgot. I also purchased a smaller (the smallest I could get) pulley from Napa and slapped that on there, this helped emensly with charging at idle. It was 9 bucks or something....
+1 for Jamie....in the 4 years I had my car I went through 12 alternators (no joke) and I found the culprit to be the 2 15" subs/amp setup I had. I cut the box in half and ran only one 15" sub and got a smaller amp and it helped but it didn't fix it. I didn't have any issues until I installed the stereo system.
I found that the alternator would fail most often when I would go on WOT runs. I tried capasitors and they didn't help, heck they made it worse for some reason.
Ooooohhhh....I forgot. I also purchased a smaller (the smallest I could get) pulley from Napa and slapped that on there, this helped emensly with charging at idle. It was 9 bucks or something....
Misanthropy
Information Junkie
I am just running a 200 watt cheapy to my aftermarket speakers. TV deck and that's it, no high output anywhere.
To add a little more 2 it, my car lights (all of them) would rapidly flash on and off when the auto dimmer was on and a loud clicking noise like it was the
alarm. When I rolled the switch to the off position the noise and flickering stopped. This is weird because my auto dimmer hasn't even kicked the lights on for quite some time now(around when my new climate control module I pulled from the junkyard lights went out.)
Oh and the sound would cut in and out on the stereo, but it would stay on. For some reason When I got the we had to rewire the whole entire thing, bypassing the stock amp in the trunk due to the fact even just hooking the old wires to the new amp wouldn't work.
To add a little more 2 it, my car lights (all of them) would rapidly flash on and off when the auto dimmer was on and a loud clicking noise like it was the
alarm. When I rolled the switch to the off position the noise and flickering stopped. This is weird because my auto dimmer hasn't even kicked the lights on for quite some time now(around when my new climate control module I pulled from the junkyard lights went out.)
Oh and the sound would cut in and out on the stereo, but it would stay on. For some reason When I got the we had to rewire the whole entire thing, bypassing the stock amp in the trunk due to the fact even just hooking the old wires to the new amp wouldn't work.
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The amp alone is enough extra draw to make the Alt overheat while trying to charge at idle. Throw in the A/C and power windows and it will toast the regulator. That is what failed on 90% of my alternators until I ran a capasitor, then it made molten metal out of the windings on 2 of my alts.
Honestly....a stock Mark draws too much power. I would go to Reibes, talk to Rich, mention my name and tell him you want to get the smaller 6 rib pulley. You can change it without removing the alternator.
Honestly....a stock Mark draws too much power. I would go to Reibes, talk to Rich, mention my name and tell him you want to get the smaller 6 rib pulley. You can change it without removing the alternator.
Misanthropy
Information Junkie
about how much will one cost?
nm 9 bucks or so
nm 9 bucks or so
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Misanthropy
Information Junkie
Anyone know the ground points for the alt?
Misanthropy
Information Junkie
k thanks again. I hope I can get this figured out soon !
Misanthropy
Information Junkie
Would a relay kit help?
I wouldnt buy a alt from Kragen. I would only use a NAPA or oem IMO. It wouldnt hurt to put another ground from the block to the frame, and one from the negative side of the battery to the frame. How big is the ground on your amp? How long is it? Where is your amp grounded to? What size wire did you run to your amp from your battery? It sounds like it could be a mixture of a bad ground and your alternator not being able to keep up with your sound system. If you run a cap, you want to run 1 farad per 1000 watts. Some people even put a second battery in the trunk to help. Dont go cheap on the car stereo equipment, you will regret it later.
Misanthropy
Information Junkie
Well I completely took off the power from the sound system. I will see how the other new alternator from kragens works. This one was from autozone.
I still think its weird how the engine will idle high at start up(for some odd reason producing more output from the alt,) but then when the car slows down it drops. Even after opening up the throttle the output stays low.
I still think its weird how the engine will idle high at start up(for some odd reason producing more output from the alt,) but then when the car slows down it drops. Even after opening up the throttle the output stays low.
I'm a Napa guy all the way, but the Alternator I recommended from Kragen is GOOD stuff.
Hows that saying go.....? "Well...theres your problem!" Haha! Autozone is JUNK!
Mine was the same way....I believe its because of the diodes in the alt, mine had three, and when one goes it doesn't charge more with the higher rpms. This directly effects the regulator.
PA Performance alternators are some of the best. AutoZone or Advanced Auto alternators are some of the worst.
Make sure you have good battery terminals - replace the tin OEM crap. Check and clean your grounds, especially the ground to the engine block. Examine your battery cables for corrosion. Lastly, run a separate heavy gage wire and fuse directly from the alternator to the battery or power distribution box.
Have your electrical system checked for amperage draw. Start with no accessories on and AC off so the cooling fan is off. With the ammeter hooked up, record your charging amps and voltage at idle. Increase the rpms to 2000 and record the volts/amps. Then turn on the AC so the cooling fan activates. Then turn the AC to mac so the cooling fan goes to max. Continue with other accessories such as lights, stereo, etc... keeping the rpms at 2000. Flickering lights usually indicate a high amperage draw or even worse, a short to ground.
If you run a smaller pulley on the alternator it will definitely help charging at idle but you will run the risk of overspinning the alternator if you hit the rev limiter often.
Make sure you have good battery terminals - replace the tin OEM crap. Check and clean your grounds, especially the ground to the engine block. Examine your battery cables for corrosion. Lastly, run a separate heavy gage wire and fuse directly from the alternator to the battery or power distribution box.
Have your electrical system checked for amperage draw. Start with no accessories on and AC off so the cooling fan is off. With the ammeter hooked up, record your charging amps and voltage at idle. Increase the rpms to 2000 and record the volts/amps. Then turn on the AC so the cooling fan activates. Then turn the AC to mac so the cooling fan goes to max. Continue with other accessories such as lights, stereo, etc... keeping the rpms at 2000. Flickering lights usually indicate a high amperage draw or even worse, a short to ground.
If you run a smaller pulley on the alternator it will definitely help charging at idle but you will run the risk of overspinning the alternator if you hit the rev limiter often.
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Misanthropy
Information Junkie
I am really worried its a short then... finding it is gunna suck.