Chapter 2 - The Intake

I am most likely going to get flamed for posting this, but it's possible.

ONLY AT your own RISK !

FIRST you have to shut off the fuel safety switch in the trunk. You could also disconnect FPDM that is on the passenger's side trunk.

SECOND Vacuum everything out of the intake ports.

THIRD move and clamp or zip tie everything out of the way including the belt if you left it in place.

Then and only then CRANK AWAY.

Alternatively, if there is any way to get a wrench on the crank bolt, you could turn the engine over by hand and avoid any possible headache ;)

Wouldn't it be easier/wiser to just turn the crank with a socket and breaker bar?

I would still vacuum the intake ports.

Ok, I'm totally gonna turn the crank... I never thought about that...
3 of the 4 cylinders on both sides had the intake valves closed, so it was easy to clean those. But I didn't want to mess with the 2 cylinders with open valves.

everything was vacuumed multiple times, and since I bought an air compressor, I was able to blow everything out also...

Pics to follow... :D

Thanks!

:D -J
 
The SeaFoam will help in the clean up, but a good carb cleaner may be better. I used some Gunk brand cleaner and had to go back and get more. You can find toothbrush sized wire brushes that will help tremendously.

Just remember the gasket surfaces - they are soft and easily gouged. Don't use a wire brush on the gasket surfaces. A plastic scraper is best on the gasket surfaces.

You can clean somewhat in the intake ports towards the valves, just be sure you dont leave any loose stuff behind.

I should have bought WAY more of those little brushes...
I did pickup a 6 gallon air compressor/tank so that I can blow the crap that is down there out. I like the Gunk cleaner, but it's a good thing I ordered new lower gaskets because the cleaner made the gaskets expand and pop out.

Way to go, Joe! :wave022: Try some Grey Goose when cleaning those parts. Makes the job a lot more tolerable. :wink: :cool:

Oh drinking hasn't been a problem... :D

the mystery plastic part is the broken ear/tab from the air box.
notice you only have 3 bolt holes?
That is probably why/where the debris is entering from

need to replace that broken end of the air box

but.. JOB WELL DONE, diving into this issue.

You can see the seafoam WAS working, but the IMRC's simply had too much crap burnt into/onto them.

10 points for figuring out what the plastic thing was :D I'll add you to the list of people I'm buying drinks for at Carlisle... :D
I agree, the seafoam was working, but it probably would have been a dozen bottles later before anything was 'clean'... :D

Thanks!
:D -J
 
2066963570039881733S600x600Q85.jpg

Uncleaned... you can see the primaries are a lot cleaner then the secondaries.

2328280240039881733S600x600Q85.jpg

After the initial scrubbing with the wire brushes and vacuuming.

2920715910039881733S600x600Q85.jpg

Close up.

2195628710039881733S600x600Q85.jpg

Clean IMRCs :D :D :D

So when you use the Gunk cleaner, I bet they assumed you would use it in a slightly more well ventilated area then your kitchen... I didn't really realize how bad it was until I walked outside, tasted fresh air, and then walked back into the house...

Thanks!

:D -J
 
Make sure that you clean and put some light oil on the injector o-rings before you try to put them back in the plates.
 
Make sure that you clean and put some light oil on the injector o-rings before you try to put them back in the plates.

I was going to use a soft cloth, any thoughts on what a good oil would be?

Thanks!

:D -J
 
Another probably unenlightened question... :D

Does it matter which was I turn the crank?

Thanks!

:D -J
 
Another probably unenlightened question... :D

Does it matter which was I turn the crank?

Thanks!

:D -J

That reminds me of when my dad did some engine work on my brother's '75 Volvo station wagon. He didn't quite put everything back together correctly, so the engine ran in reverse! It ran poorly, but exhaust was indeed coming out of the intake...and the tail pipes were indeed sucking in air.

I'd love to hear if that has happened to anyone here.

Sorry for getting off topic, but I figured it would be interesting reading.
 
i plan on taking my intake off in a week and replacing it with a cobra intake, but im also thinking of going into it a bit further and taking the heads apart and cleaning everything in there, maybe even tear the whole motor apart and rebuilding it piece by piece after i paint everything from the pan up
 
i plan on taking my intake off in a week and replacing it with a cobra intake, but im also thinking of going into it a bit further and taking the heads apart and cleaning everything in there, maybe even tear the whole motor apart and rebuilding it piece by piece after i paint everything from the pan up

Ambitious.

If you are going to go through the trouble though, you may as well get a Cobra crank from a salvage yard and get good parts in there.

I'm sure the others can recommend some un-expensive upgrades you can do while it is apart.
 
That reminds me of when my dad did some engine work on my brother's '75 Volvo station wagon. He didn't quite put everything back together correctly, so the engine ran in reverse! It ran poorly, but exhaust was indeed coming out of the intake...and the tail pipes were indeed sucking in air.

I'd love to hear if that has happened to anyone here.

Sorry for getting off topic, but I figured it would be interesting reading.

But how would fuelhave gotten to the cylinders unless there was a large amount of gas in the exhaust?
 
That reminds me of when my dad did some engine work on my brother's '75 Volvo station wagon. He didn't quite put everything back together correctly, so the engine ran in reverse! It ran poorly, but exhaust was indeed coming out of the intake...and the tail pipes were indeed sucking in air.

I'd love to hear if that has happened to anyone here.

Sorry for getting off topic, but I figured it would be interesting reading.

I dunno man I'm putting up the flag on this one
BS-Flag.gif
 
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