Frozen rotors installed

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logres

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Since I cooked my $25 Autozone rotors with EBC Greenstuff pads, I ended up warping them bigtime. The steering wheel shook like a jackhammer when I hit the brakes. So I put in some plain frozen rotors at $100 a pop. It was worth it. Braking is smooth as ice. The brakes are still bedding-in, but stopping power is slowly returning to normal. I'll update in a few weeks.
 
J said:
Frozen rotors? I've never heard that term....what are they?
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Cryogenic rotors... they freeze them in order to make the metal stronger blah blah. Usually this is done on super high peformance sports cars ... not sure as to what quality standards the regular stuff is held to.

To the OP, check back in 6 months and let us know how the brakes are.

Mark VIIIs are notorious for brake vibrations and I have had very bad luck sorting them out.
 
My brakes didn't vibrate with those Raybestos Cross drilled/slotted.....but I bet you 100 bucks they vibrate now that Adam has it. He's notorious for being a late braker.

Cryogenic freezing huh....never heard of it, haha.
 
logres said:
So I put in some plain frozen rotors at $100 a pop.
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I know a bit about metallurgy, I can tell you that cryo freezing is complete a waste of money. The only thing it can do is give you a slight improvement in a sub-par metal, if any. Also, many of the cryo treating companies don't have a controlled temperature ascent, soak, or ramp up which is very critical to any metal harding processes. Also, I have specifically asked this question to a metallurgist with 30+ years of experience and very into motor sports, he can't believe the marketing these cryo companies come up with. You are better off going with a higher quality rotor with better process control and metallurgy to begin with. It's likely that the "frozen" rotors you have were just better a better metal initially than the $25 autozone specials. I bought some quality US made rotors for my 95 after having many warping issues with cheap rotors. I always did a through break in process and the cheap ones would warp in short time. I haven't had a problem since I spent a little more money on a better made rotor.

There's my .02
 
95blklsc said:
I know a bit about metallurgy, I can tell you that cryo freezing is complete a waste of money. The only thing it can do is give you a slight improvement in a sub-par metal, if any. Also, many of the cryo treating companies don't have a controlled temperature ascent, soak, or ramp up which is very critical to any metal harding processes. Also, I have specifically asked this question to a metallurgist with 30+ years of experience and very into motor sports, he can't believe the marketing these cryo companies come up with. You are better off going with a higher quality rotor with better process control and metallurgy to begin with. It's likely that the "frozen" rotors you have were just better a better metal initially than the $25 autozone specials. I bought some quality US made rotors for my 95 after having many warping issues with cheap rotors. I always did a through break in process and the cheap ones would warp in short time. I haven't had a problem since I spent a little more money on a better made rotor.

There's my .02
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Oh, so now someone speaks up! ;)

My research didn't turn up much public opinion, so I just forked over the money. In hindsight I probably should have thrown the question on the board prior to buying them.

Oh well; at the very least I can be the Mark guinea pig for everyone else.
 
Well think of it this way, although the cryo treatment may not be worthwhile, they hopefully started with metal better than the AZ units. If you don't have warping problems in the future you can't ask for much more. You will just be more informed for next time around.
 
I've had EXCELLENT results with NAPA rotors and Centrics brake pads. These pads don't squeal and leave minimal dust. The NAPA rotors are really Bendix and since I switched to these I've never had any warping issues. Compare the rotor wall thickness on these to most others and you'll see why they last.
 
I've been running Frozen Rotors on the front for over 2 years. Love them.

They get dirty fast and the steering wheel does it's wabble thing. But a few "almost anti-skid" active braking and they clean up nice.
 
I've had some experience with cryogenic parts such as industrial gears and cutters for shaft and tunnel boring machines. I could not discern any major difference over other quality non-treated components. In actual practice it is best for thinner sections subjected to fatique rather than heavier duty applications.

Personally, I'd be slightly skeptical of frozen rotors, but it may prove itself over time. The price seems comparable to other choices out there.
 
lol You guys need to pony up and get some real brakes! :)



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How much did those run ya? Are the 14" rotors? I have a 13" cobra set up now which is great but I keep thinking about going further sometime in the future.
 
Here is the parts list. Phenomenal stopping power. Extremely expensive when compared to the retail value of a 98 Mark VIII. Money well spent to me, since there are no plans to ever sell the Mark. :)


M2300X Ford Racing/Brembo 13in 2000 Cobra R Front Brake Kit

136-2261002 Baer Eradispeed Extreme Plus 2 piece Front Brake Rotors for 1999-2004 Mustang Cobra

DP31031C EBC Brake Pads for 2000 Cobra R/Brembo Brakes

9904HABA Front Hub and Bearing Assembly for 1999-2004 Mustang Cobra

136-2262001 Baer Eradispeed Extreme Plus 2 piece Rear brake rotors for 1999-2004 Mustang Cobra

YR3Z1109AA Rear Hub for 1999-2004 Mustang Cobra IRS

E9DZ1215A Rear Wheel Bearing for 1999-2004 Mustang Cobra IRS

BR57B Rear brake pads for 1994-1998 Lincoln Mark VIII

F&R Hardened ARP racing wheel studs

Napa rear Mark VIII calipers

Big Ed's Rear Caliper Relocation Kit

F&R Classic Tube SS Brake Line Kit

eradispeed-plus-two-image.jpg


397-M-2300-X.jpg
 
mlschultz said:
lol You guys need to pony up and get some real brakes! :)
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Can't be certain, but I have a feeling that pad material and rotor quality can improve braking just as much as installing bigger brakes.

I'd be interested in seeing a 70-0 mph braking distance test in both scenarios.
 
I can tell you that it is night and day difference. Tell you what, since I have pretty much have 2000 Cobra R brakes on my Mark with upgraded Baer rotors that have the following features, l have posted below what I found doing a google search for some published write-ups.

Keep in mind this is a single stop. YMMV. :) We all know what will happen to the stock Mark brakes after a couple panic stops... :) Don't follow me too close now... :)


GT3: Braking 60-0 mph, ft 98

2000 Cobra R: Braking 60-0 mph, ft 109

GT2:Braking 60-0 mph, ft 110

Z06: Braking 60-0 mph, ft 111

2003 Cobra: Braking 60-0 mph, ft 121

1998 Lincoln Mark VIII: Braking 60-0 mph, ft 122

Baer Eradispeed Extreme Plus 2 piece Front Brake Rotors:

- Dramatically reduced weight
- Increased heat absorption
- Faster thermal recovery
- High resistance to stress cracking
- Increased friction, low wear, from proprietary iron specification
- Greater airflow efficiency through curved vane or Kangaroo™ port design
- Location of holes directly behind vane structure to arrest and limit migration of stress fractures from cross-drilling
- Elimination of out-gassing
- Greater bite or initial onset of friction
- Equalized pad surface wear
- Improved wet weather performance
- Brilliant rust resistant surfaces
- Dynamic visual impact
- Limited Lifetime Warranty Against Warping
 
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Have you ever had a chance to compare them with the factory 03 cobra brakes? Thats what I have on my 97 w/13 inch rotors and the factory rear calipers with a bracket set up and cobra rear rotors. The braking difference between that and my 95 with factory brakes is amazing to say the least.
 
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