My tranny has been shifting erratically since I can remember. After researching forever it seems I figured it was the MLPS. When I looked underneath the lines weren't that far off, maybe a 16th or even a 32nd. I lined them up exactly and drove it. There might have been a slight change but I really couldn't tell. It still does it a little. Should I move it a bit more? Could the switch be off a little itself? Or maybe the slight improvement was in my head. Could the valve body not be working properly? Just my luck, everything was saying MLPS!
MLPS Alignment
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Would a 94 mlps on a 93 be much of a problem? The guy talked about the connectors not matching and had to do something to it to make it work. I don't know if it was a 94, or other year, mlps but why would he have to modify the connector if it was for the 93? Like I said earlier, I lined up the marks but it didn't stop the irratic shifting. Another thing is that it doesn't pop out of gear while cruising but when I take my foot off the gas to coast or slow down it seems to go into neutral and then it has to rev slightly to get back into gear. Is this the torque converter or what?
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The updated MLPS has the red gasket and does need to be re-pinned for a 93. The factory MLPS had no gasket and moisture leak in causing the electronics to short out.
Does it shift funky, neutral out, slip, shudder? Have you done a complete fluid drain and re-fill using Mercon V? How many miles on it?
It does shift funky though it doesn't just pop out of gear to neutral, it seems to go into neutral when I take my foot off the gas, making it rev a bit when applying the gas again. It also seems to go into 3rd and maybe 4th too early or at low speeds. No I haven't drained fluid yet but plan to soon. It has something like 30,000 since the rebuild. Who knows what he might have done to it but it hasn't been quite right since. Warranty is done. It also kinda surges slightly at very low speed.
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If your just cruising down the road and it goes into neutral that is an indicator of bad MLPS. Doesn't sound like your problem.
I would definitely drain trans and TC and refill w/Mercon V. That may "fix it" and may not. Others had said it worked for them. Main problem with our Marks is the Mercon III fluid eating up friction lining in the TC.
You can also scan for trouble codes and see if any trans related are stored. Also, if not done already, I would invest $50-$75 in a plate style 24k GVW trans cooler.
Check out the thread below. May help you narrow down what is going on.
http://www.markviii.org/htdocs/dc/d...ic_id=44554&mesg_id=44554&listing_type=search
I feel your pain. The trans in my 93 has 140xxx on it and is going south. Got a low mile 96 trans in the garage to swap once it warms up.
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Yes, but it was cheap and local. If I had the $$$ I would get a custom built w/all the goodies and a stall converter. But, you can only spend what you got. I like the roof over my head and food on the table
That's a nice article and helps explain alot. I hope it is that simple. I do need to change the fluid and filter anyway. Sounds like I might have that pre-mature lock-up. Would changing the lock-up schedule raise the 2000rpm's @ 75mph in OD, resulting in lower fuel economy? One thing though, It feels like it locks up pre-maturely well under 37mph, more like 15-20mph. Maybe I have both problems. What do one of those SCT chips go for and is it hard to install? I have never messed with the computer on a car.
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When you drive in city/town traffic do you leave OD switch on? Try it w/OD off. I never switch on OD until I can cruise 55+ and always off in city/town.
You may also try putting it in 2nd manually from a dead stop, and run it up to 40-45 then let off and manually shift to third. Then into OD at 55-60. How do the shifts feel, solid/short, soft/long?
Did you have your trans rebuilt or a National chain reman trans?
You may also try putting it in 2nd manually from a dead stop, and run it up to 40-45 then let off and manually shift to third. Then into OD at 55-60. How do the shifts feel, solid/short, soft/long?
Did you have your trans rebuilt or a National chain reman trans?
I have the OD off in the city also. It seems to shift fine if I am steady running up to cruising speed. The problem is when I am in traffic, the slow down and speed up under 45mph. Sometimes it does shift into second kinda hard and sometimes OK, depends on acceleration.
Under normal accel second to third is a bit soft/long. It was rebuilt by a guy in Nevada that supposedly specializes in 4X4's. I wanted a Jasper reman w/75,000 mile warranty but I was out of the country so I couldn't supervise and he had it apart and ordered parts before I knew it. My dad doesn't remember if he told him about the Jasper or just told him to fix it. Now I have a one year warranty that is long past expired!
IF YOU WANT IT DONE RIGHT, DO IT YOURSELF!
Like I said before, I think I have the symptoms of both "shudder" and pre-mature lock-up. Only mine happen under 37mph. How can it go into 3rd at 10-15mph?
Under normal accel second to third is a bit soft/long. It was rebuilt by a guy in Nevada that supposedly specializes in 4X4's. I wanted a Jasper reman w/75,000 mile warranty but I was out of the country so I couldn't supervise and he had it apart and ordered parts before I knew it. My dad doesn't remember if he told him about the Jasper or just told him to fix it. Now I have a one year warranty that is long past expired!
IF YOU WANT IT DONE RIGHT, DO IT YOURSELF!
Like I said before, I think I have the symptoms of both "shudder" and pre-mature lock-up. Only mine happen under 37mph. How can it go into 3rd at 10-15mph?
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Sounds the same as mine. I'm pretty sure I have a bad tc.
When you feel it hit 3rd have you manually downshifted to 2nd? One way to check.
When you feel it hit 3rd have you manually downshifted to 2nd? One way to check.
Today I had another tranny guy check it out. He ran the codes and the only one that came up was a bad IAC. I hope that's an easy one.
When the guy drove it he said that it is not "slipping" as far as it being a bad tranny. He said that the shift between 2nd and 3rd was very long and soft, a sign of low line pressure, making it slip while going into 3rd. Yet it is a hard shift from 1st to 2nd.
Also, he gave a term for the symptom of going into 3rd at such a low speed, he called it "gear stacking".
So, rather than $2,000 for a complete rebuild, I think I am leaning towards just a valve body rebuild for $400-$500, the regular service (filter and fluid change) included.
He also said that he is not so sure about the theory of "shudder" and "pre-mature lock-up" as far as the torque converter is concerned. He said the torque converter is mainly a fluid transfer mechanism.
What do you guys think?
When the guy drove it he said that it is not "slipping" as far as it being a bad tranny. He said that the shift between 2nd and 3rd was very long and soft, a sign of low line pressure, making it slip while going into 3rd. Yet it is a hard shift from 1st to 2nd.
Also, he gave a term for the symptom of going into 3rd at such a low speed, he called it "gear stacking".
So, rather than $2,000 for a complete rebuild, I think I am leaning towards just a valve body rebuild for $400-$500, the regular service (filter and fluid change) included.
He also said that he is not so sure about the theory of "shudder" and "pre-mature lock-up" as far as the torque converter is concerned. He said the torque converter is mainly a fluid transfer mechanism.
What do you guys think?
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I've had a "high performance" converter suffer pre-mature lock-up so bad that my car would sometimes stall when I wasn't moving. It's usually caused by a bad TCC solenoid ($25 part) but can be caused by the converter as well.
And the converter IS a fluid transfer mechanism...until it locks up. Then you have direct drive (to a certain extent).