problem w/ new Kooks headers
- Thread starter LincolnMan
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14.6@97MPH
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RE: problem w/ new Kooks headers
My bad, you're right...........Johnny's car has Chris's Long-Tubes not Dan's. Dan's are modeled after Chris's, right?
Either way, his car sounds great.
Ken
My bad, you're right...........Johnny's car has Chris's Long-Tubes not Dan's. Dan's are modeled after Chris's, right?
Either way, his car sounds great.
Ken
unstoppable
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RE: problem w/ new Kooks headers
No, Dans are copied off of Ponies Macs.
Mine were BBKs.
No, Dans are copied off of Ponies Macs.
Mine were BBKs.
Sierra3
Registered
RE: problem w/ new Kooks headers
Im running the ART headers now on a 2001 SVT cobra motor, mine came with the bungs for the O2 sensors welded and filled then jethot coated. I'll be leanghthing my O2 sensors, and putting them in the header collectors in front of my X-pipe to dual magnaflows.
What would be the optimal spacing i should tell the exhaust guy where i want them inserted. How far back from end of long tube header should they be put for optimal reading?
Other than smashing in my drivers floorpan with a flat piece of steel, and sledge, they fit perfect. (after you buy the flaming river joint) I just wish they had an inch more down angle for clearance when the engine twists. Then i wouldnt of had to "modify" my floorpan ;-) Im happy with them, they look great. Now we'll see what they perform like soon.
1995 DK BLUE Lincoln Mark VIII
1998 DK BLUE Chevrolet 1500
SOLD ;( 1979 WHITE Trans AM w/455
2004 BLACK HONDA CBR 600RR
Im running the ART headers now on a 2001 SVT cobra motor, mine came with the bungs for the O2 sensors welded and filled then jethot coated. I'll be leanghthing my O2 sensors, and putting them in the header collectors in front of my X-pipe to dual magnaflows.
What would be the optimal spacing i should tell the exhaust guy where i want them inserted. How far back from end of long tube header should they be put for optimal reading?
Other than smashing in my drivers floorpan with a flat piece of steel, and sledge, they fit perfect. (after you buy the flaming river joint) I just wish they had an inch more down angle for clearance when the engine twists. Then i wouldnt of had to "modify" my floorpan ;-) Im happy with them, they look great. Now we'll see what they perform like soon.
1995 DK BLUE Lincoln Mark VIII
1998 DK BLUE Chevrolet 1500
SOLD ;( 1979 WHITE Trans AM w/455
2004 BLACK HONDA CBR 600RR
RE: problem w/ new Kooks headers
Chris can back me up on this. I have the Magnaflows on and they sound good until I step on it. Then it has a popping sound, like a card in the spokes. That's simply because of the flow through design. They work similar to glass packs. There's this metal mesh on the inside and it makes that sound. Mine did that on the dyno. Scared everyone out of the shop when it ran. They said it sounded cool once they knew the car wasn't going to blow up. By the way I put 250 down in third gear, with Dennis' chip, LMS long tubes that Chris put in and 2.5" with two free flow cats and single X. No rear gear change yet. I am selling this car right now, though if anyone wants to make arrangements with me. I live in AZ.
Chris can back me up on this. I have the Magnaflows on and they sound good until I step on it. Then it has a popping sound, like a card in the spokes. That's simply because of the flow through design. They work similar to glass packs. There's this metal mesh on the inside and it makes that sound. Mine did that on the dyno. Scared everyone out of the shop when it ran. They said it sounded cool once they knew the car wasn't going to blow up. By the way I put 250 down in third gear, with Dennis' chip, LMS long tubes that Chris put in and 2.5" with two free flow cats and single X. No rear gear change yet. I am selling this car right now, though if anyone wants to make arrangements with me. I live in AZ.
RE: problem w/ new Kooks headers
Yea Jason you have the same problem I do. The car is fine at idle, but once you push the throttle at anything other than WOT, it has a car in a bicycle spoke sounds.
I recently heard my first longtube mark VIII that sounded good. It had a single flowmaster dual 3" in and 3" out muffler right below the tranny, and then dual 3" the rest of the way. IT sounded nice and deep, and no raspy sound to it at all.
Yea Jason you have the same problem I do. The car is fine at idle, but once you push the throttle at anything other than WOT, it has a car in a bicycle spoke sounds.
I recently heard my first longtube mark VIII that sounded good. It had a single flowmaster dual 3" in and 3" out muffler right below the tranny, and then dual 3" the rest of the way. IT sounded nice and deep, and no raspy sound to it at all.
Mad1stGen
Registered
RE: problem w/ new Kooks headers
[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
I recently heard my first longtube mark VIII that sounded good. It had a single flowmaster dual 3" in and 3" out muffler right below the tranny, and then dual 3" the rest of the way. IT sounded nice and deep, and no raspy sound to it at all.
[/div]
Did it have LTs as well ? straight pipes ? Did that muffler fit in there fine ? I have a 2.5 in/out there and I scrape all the time in driveways etc.
[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
I recently heard my first longtube mark VIII that sounded good. It had a single flowmaster dual 3" in and 3" out muffler right below the tranny, and then dual 3" the rest of the way. IT sounded nice and deep, and no raspy sound to it at all.
[/div]
Did it have LTs as well ? straight pipes ? Did that muffler fit in there fine ? I have a 2.5 in/out there and I scrape all the time in driveways etc.
Mad1stGen
Registered
RE: problem w/ new Kooks headers
This might be a good option for clearance issues:
http://shop.ivalueinternet.com/bigexhaust/images/small/low_profile_1.jpg
http://shop.ivalueinternet.com/bigexhaust/index.cfm/action/productdetail/product_id/1254.htm
This might be a good option for clearance issues:
http://shop.ivalueinternet.com/bigexhaust/images/small/low_profile_1.jpg
http://shop.ivalueinternet.com/bigexhaust/index.cfm/action/productdetail/product_id/1254.htm
unstoppable
Registered
RE: problem w/ new Kooks headers
I got dual 3 inch to fit.No rubbing, no clearence issues whatsoever.It was tough, yes.But doable.
I got dual 3 inch to fit.No rubbing, no clearence issues whatsoever.It was tough, yes.But doable.
RE: problem w/ new Kooks headers
i have done a couple three in systems and have not had a problem with clearence issues yet. even with a bid magnaflow in the middle too. my setup is on dennis R car, bill G car and i sent a system to joe too. i have sold a couple other ones but i dont remember who they where.
i have done a couple three in systems and have not had a problem with clearence issues yet. even with a bid magnaflow in the middle too. my setup is on dennis R car, bill G car and i sent a system to joe too. i have sold a couple other ones but i dont remember who they where.
RE: problem w/ new Kooks headers
after the kooks install that are showing rust now I went from a hack xx with dynomax ultras I then switched to h pipe hoping to lower the pitch . I then swapped out the ultraflows to mac flowpath ss. the reason I bought the macs was because they are 4 3/4 in. thick I was hoping to have them installed after the cats 2 places said no. they are where the stock muffs are deeper meaner louder but that annoying rasp rattle is still there not nearly as bad. recently I had a nickel size hole where the h pipe meets fixed and the egr threads loosened up I had both welded. eventually I will find an exhaust guy that will say yeah I can do that. moving the muff-s up fixes the rasp problem. dr. gas makes some super thin muffs at 125 each thats the price of a cheap welder.
after the kooks install that are showing rust now I went from a hack xx with dynomax ultras I then switched to h pipe hoping to lower the pitch . I then swapped out the ultraflows to mac flowpath ss. the reason I bought the macs was because they are 4 3/4 in. thick I was hoping to have them installed after the cats 2 places said no. they are where the stock muffs are deeper meaner louder but that annoying rasp rattle is still there not nearly as bad. recently I had a nickel size hole where the h pipe meets fixed and the egr threads loosened up I had both welded. eventually I will find an exhaust guy that will say yeah I can do that. moving the muff-s up fixes the rasp problem. dr. gas makes some super thin muffs at 125 each thats the price of a cheap welder.