Scil

[driller]

The way I understand it, if you replace the SCIL you have 2 options. One is to reprogram the key using a Star tester with a 15 minute procedure or without the Star tester using the 45 minute procedure. Otherwise I assume the SCIL is tied to the original key(s) that was paired with it.

 

[budpytko]

Looks like I'll be trying the 45 min procedure to see if that works..... Today or tomorrow....I'll report back. Got to pull and reinstall the "new" SCIL...... again!

BTW - Thanks, JP!

 

[driller]

Reading further, apparently you need TWO keys reprogrammed for the initialization of the SCIL?

Key Programming —Key Initialization Sequence
NOTE: The following procedure must be performed when replacing the steering column/ignition/lighting (SCIL) module.

NOTE: The SCIL module requires two keys to be programmed before it will allow the vehicle to be started. If a SCIL module is replaced the technician must inform the customer to program any additional keys.

Insert the first key into the ignition and turn to RUN or START.

The theft indicator will turn on for three seconds, then off for one second, then on for up to one minute. (This indicates that the first key was programmed.)

Insert the second key into the ignition and turn to RUN or START.

Verify that the theft indicator will turn on for three seconds, then off to show that the second key is programmed.

NOTE: If the theft indicator flashes in place of the three second prove out, retry the above procedure keys were not programmed. (Otherwise there is a system problem, defective key, wiring or transceiver problem).

Start the vehicle.

Once you have two keys programmed, you may program "spare" keys...

Key Programming —Spare
NOTE: The steering column/ignition/lighting (SCIL) module requires two keys to be programmed before it will allow the vehicle to be started. If a SCIL module is replaced, the technician must inform the customer to program any additional keys.

NOTE: The SCIL module has a maximum capacity of eight keys.

NOTE: The encoded vehicle keys must have the correct mechanical key cuts for the vehicle.

Cycle the ignition switch from OFF to RUN using a programmed key. After the anti-theft indicator is lit solid for three seconds, remove the key.

Within 15 seconds, insert a new encoded key into the ignition switch and turn the key to RUN or START.

If the SCIL module has accepted the key, the anti-theft indicator lamp will illuminate for three seconds and the SCIL module will allow the vehicle to be started.

Repeat the procedure if additional encoded keys are to be programmed.

If the programming is not successful, the anti-theft indicator lamp will:

Flash for 15 minutes if no encoded key is located and programmed. The key is either damaged or is a non-encoded key. (Try an alternate encoded key.)

Flash for 15 minutes if the key code is received but the engine is disabled. The key was not programmed successfully. Repeat the procedure.

Flash for 15 minutes if the programming is unsuccessful, the new key was not inserted within 15 seconds, all eight key memory locations are full or the key is not an encoded key. Repeat the procedure if the key is not encoded or may not have been inserted within the 15-second window.

I'm so glad at times like this I have a "dumb" Gen1 car. LOL

 

[budpytko]

Upon thinking about the consequences of reprogramming my present keys to the new SCIL, I've decided to await the original key that went with that SCIL and just keep the two keys I have for the old one as thta's the one that's in now and seems to be working.

I will tape the original key to the NEW SCIL and if (when) it decides to act up again, I'll just stick the new one in and hold IT'S key near the ignition and hope it'll unlock it so my key can start the car. If worse comes to worse, I have an UNCUT key I can have programed to the new SCIL.

I ALMOST wish I had a Gen I now!

 

[budpytko]

Here's another hint on the electrical problem I've been having....Took the Lincoln to upstate NY this past week,,,just got home today. Once I knew I was going to make it home ok....NO prob on the trip up OR back - until I tried this.

Just before going into the Baltimore Harbor Tunnel (5 miles from home) , I switched on the AUTO-HEADLIGHTS. Went into the tunnel and a when the headlights were supposed to come on, bam! Electrical failure!

Drove home, parked it in driveway, pulled the ground side cable off battery.... unloaded car, sorted the mail, went back out reconnected the ground cable - - everything works!

Now it the problem the headlight switch (auto lamp side)?, the HIDS? Or possibly the SCIL module?

 

[logres]

Here's another hint on the electrical problem I've been having....Took the Lincoln to upstate NY this past week,,,just got home today. Once I knew I was going to make it home ok....NO prob on the trip up OR back - until I tried this.

Just before going into the Baltimore Harbor Tunnel (5 miles from home) , I switched on the AUTO-HEADLIGHTS. Went into the tunnel and a when the headlights were supposed to come on, bam! Electrical failure!

Drove home, parked it in driveway, pulled the ground side cable off battery.... unloaded car, sorted the mail, went back out reconnected the ground cable - - everything works!

Now it the problem the headlight switch (auto lamp side)?, the HIDS? Or possibly the SCIL module?

Could also be a short somewhere...but let's hope not.

 

[budpytko]

New Information: Got Mike's ignition key and had my ignition key copied WITHOUT the security chip in it. Replaced the SCIL with Mike's and set Mike's key on top of keyhole. Car started ok. Took car for a drive and it ran fine! While out, took car to Battery Warehouse to have battery/alternator tested because of my flickering BATT light in dashboard. It tested fine. Tester had me leave headlights on and shut off engine. Whrn he said to start the car the electrical system did the SAME thing as when I had my original SCIL in.....removed ground to battery, turned off the headlights, reconnected battery ground - started right up! My problem is NOT the SCIL!

Now I have to run down what else it might be..... most likely a ground problem....SOMEWHERE. Or maybe with the aftermarket HID's or their relays....???? What a pain in the arse!