Strange acceleration and shift.
- Thread starter Be2lose
- Start date
I posted info regarding my tranny with my programming...nothing misinformed there. As I said before, I am not an expert in this area, and how Lonnie decides to program my tranny is his business.
And who followed my bad information, and how did they do it exactly? I didn't read anywhere that someone had changed there shift points and broke their tranny.
And I didn't mention anything about your car. I made an assumption based on how Lonnie programmed mine. If it differs from how yours is programmed, that is between you and him.
Honestly, where is this coming from?
Thanks all!, I'm glad Lonnie knows what he is doing and I have you guys to explain it to me!!
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ROFL
Just look up the P71 package.
Stiffer springs front/back and stiffer shocks front/back
3.55 rear gears with trac-lock
Dual Exhaust
MMX Driveshaft
Engine Oil Cooler
200 amp alternator
Dual Exhaust
It really doesn't offer any extra performance only durability.
Or the choppers.
I will assure you that our cars do NOT have a trac-lok.
Heck...I don't think they have gears either.
Lonnie
Blue Oval Chips
You’re in 3rd at that speed and it's downshifting into 1st. Your WOT 1-2 shift should be completed before 6200 though. You really need to do the Jmod or put a complete valve body in if it's taking that long to complete the shift. I think I was telling you or it may have been another Gen 2 customer that these cars run out of steam quickly NA where as the Gen 1 will keep pulling. This is due to the intake manifold difference. With your 3.73s it helps to carry the car farther into the rpms but nothing like a Gen 1 would. So what is happening is your shifts are taking to0 long to complete and taking you well past any useable power. The fix is to take care of the valve body or send the chip back and I’ll lower the shifts. Your TC has a drain plug on it, if the fluid hasn’t been changed in awhile or you don’t know the history of the vehicle I would drop the pan, change the fluid and filter, drain the TC and put in fresh Mercon V.
Now as for the heated debate here; the WOT 4 - 1 is bad. There's no 4R70W or 75W that will hold up to this or the WOT 3 - 4. Nothing I build or sell will hold up to this and why my programming is set up the way it is. This is a sure way of snapping the stub shaft. Going to a hardened shaft will not stop this either since with that shaft the damage continues on into the rest of the trans vice just the shaft breaking. There’s plenty of examples laying around the shop where people thought they had a bullet proof trans or didn’t think this was bad for the trans.
The Mustang is now running 9.7s @142 mph and still fully automatic. There's a lot of programming in it to keep it from shifting into 4th and saving the trans from destruction.
Hey Lonnie, after more tests and reading what others have to say here, I'm pretty sure it is od when this happens. Once I get to about 42 it shifts into OD and does not down shift until I slow to around 32. If Im in this range and go wot it does what I described. although now I realize it is down shifting at redline(to what gear I dont know).
It was not me that you were talking to about this.
I have changed the trans fluid twice. At around 60,000 (first time it was changed)and just a week ago at 90,000.
I don't know anything about auto-trans and the mechanic I use when I cant or dont want to do the work does not know what the Jmod is.
I would like to upgrade the trans instead of reprograming the chip, but I'm not sure who can do it. Does anyone know of a good mechanic in the S.F. Bay area?
It was not me that you were talking to about this.
I have changed the trans fluid twice. At around 60,000 (first time it was changed)and just a week ago at 90,000.
I don't know anything about auto-trans and the mechanic I use when I cant or dont want to do the work does not know what the Jmod is.
I would like to upgrade the trans instead of reprograming the chip, but I'm not sure who can do it. Does anyone know of a good mechanic in the S.F. Bay area?