Vibration noise

T man said:
Is there any way to check these? The T/C is still locking up fine, and i was under the car yesterday changing my oil, and tried to wiggle the tail shaft (there was absolutely no movement)

Tried the same at both ends of the drive shaft, do i have to take it out to check it?

is it possible see if the flex plate is loose without removing the transmission?

Thanks!
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If the flex plate is loose, the vibration will occur in Drive or Park...you mentioned yours only occurs when driving.
 
I don't think you can access the flexplate/crank bolts without removing the tranny. You can check the TC bolts/nuts though.

If you can feel no play in the tailshaft you should be good.

However, the u-joints may be bad and be very difficult on occasion to physically see any play in them mounted in the car.
 
One way to check the universal joints is to index them around so that the joints a in a 6 o'clock 12 o'clock position and try an move each end of the shaft up and down then indexing again to the next set of joints to do the same. You should not feel a bunch of slop.
 
Now that I think about it, my old u-joints seemed good and tight, but after taking them out, they were really worn out. I forgot why I took them out, but I'm glad I did.
 
There are probably a very significant amount of shafts that could use some service work on them (joint replacement), but don't because they are out of sight.
 
well, i drove it down to my mechanic today... He seems very sure that there's a blown bearing or something in the rear end, we're taking it apart tomorrow to see whats up :rolleyes:

thanks guys.
 
so today i got the diagnosis... Blown bearing ate the ring and pinion, they're all chewed up. And the U-joints had some play in them.

Upgrading to 3.73s (because i do alot of highway driving), new U-joints and balancing the shaft, limited slip and rebuild.
 
T man said:
so today i got the diagnosis... Blown bearing ate the ring and pinion, they're all chewed up. And the U-joints had some play in them.

Upgrading to 3.73s (because i do alot of highway driving), new U-joints and balancing the shaft, limited slip and rebuild.
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Upgrading to 3.73s from what 4.10s?

I think I'm the only person who thinks that 3.27s are too short... :D

:D -J
 
BadSax said:
Upgrading to 3.73s from what 4.10s?

I think I'm the only person who thinks that 3.27s are too short... :D

:D -J
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I've still got the stock 3.07 in mine...along with Eaton posi, stage 3 tranny, and carbon-fiber 3000 stall converter.

I am also wierd in this manner...
 
logres said:
I've still got the stock 3.07 in mine...along with Eaton posi, stage 3 tranny, and carbon-fiber 3000 stall converter.

I am also wierd in this manner...
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HA... I'm not alone... :D

Yeah, I like the long gears for hiway travel...
3.73s would be to short IMO for lots of hiway use (although plenty here use them).

:D -J
 
yeah i know what you mean. I want to get the revs up though faster for the stall and because im using a centrifugal supercharger.

The new motor should be able to cruise at 3k rpm for a while.

I would have gone with 4:10s if i didn't go on the highway so much :eek:

...In a few years I want to add an extremely tall 5th gear for cruising and put in a 4:56 rear.
 
Circa 4.10s...
 

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Thats not as bad as i would have expected although i still would like to add a 5th gear for the long haul (i drive about 300mi once a month and cruise at about 90).

Im curious why's the clutch type limited slip more expensive than gear type? Isn't gear type more durable anyway?
 
T man said:
Thats not as bad as i would have expected although i still would like to add a 5th gear for the long haul (i drive about 300mi once a month and cruise at about 90).

Im curious why's the clutch type limited slip more expensive than gear type? Isn't gear type more durable anyway?
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If you shop around, you'll find they cost around the same.

In light of this, I don't know why people would still buy the friction type.
 
ford racing has the clutch type more expensive? I don't understand why because i thought the gear type would last longer and be more of and even torque to both wheels?
 
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driller said:
Circa 4.10s...
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That picture makes me ill... :D

2000 RPM would be my ideal engine speed at 80... :D

:D -J
 
To each his own I guess. There are few roads around here you will do 80 for very long. So for the most part, the rpms is not an issue.
 
T man said:
ford racing has the clutch type more expensive? I don't understand why because i thought the gear type would last longer and be more of and even torque to both wheels?
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Don't buy from Ford Racing. You can find the same unit at your local drivetrain shop for around $300. The mom$pop shops are the best for doing anything with the pumpkin.
 
Im having a mom and pop place put it in. (actually just closed :( but working out of the house now)

They needed it right away because i've been stuck with no car and im too young to rent a car..

I was assured ford racing was top quality and have to agree because after all it is ford racing. Ordered over night.

I'm not happy with $ though.
 
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