xmsn seperator plate modification

9

93LINCMK8

Registered
I have a couple questions just to make sure I understand what I read in the tech articles.

On a '93, can you upgrade to a deep sump pan and filter without changing any thing else?

Do the modifications to the seperator plate work on a '93 or do you have to get a '99 VB? Can you get an already modified sep plate for the '93?

Those of you who did an accum upgrade, did you have certain symptoms to urge you to do it? I mean was it shifting funny?
 
I did the upgrades to my Blue 93 this Spring.

Yes, you can upgrade to the deep sump pan and filter.

Yes, the modifications can be made to the 93 valve body without replacing it. I drilled the holes in the valve body from my 93 with no issues. Although it sounds like the most intimidating part of the process, it's actually the easiest part.

I upgraded both the 1-2 and 2-3 accumulators. I had no symptoms to speak of; the car shifted normally. However, when I removed the 1-2 accumulator, both the upper and the lower springs were broken.

The separator plate modification (JMOD) is the single best modification I've done to any of my cars. It is incredible how differently the transmission shifts. I have plans to do my other Mark VIII's this Fall.

Good luck!
 
My tranny shifts weird. From what I read it feels like maybe the accums are leaking so I'm hoping the new type help that and mine also has what I guess they mean by the FLARE when doing a 4-2 auto shift, which the article said that the #9 and #11 hole will fix. I just hope that it's not too far gone for these mods.

I just want to make sure that I drill the right holes in the right places. Are they the same for the '93 as they are in the article? They are using T-Bird VB's after all.
 
You should be extremely careful of forced down shifts from 4th to 2nd, as this is one of the weak points of the tranny, as a matter of fact you should try and avoid it. You can do so by just pushing the botton and stay in 3rd if you think you need to drop into 2nd.
 
ditto.

I never do a 4-2 shift unless I want to see stuff from under the car in my rear view mirror. I always turn OD off then shift. Its almost a reflex. Heck, I turn OD off are part of starting up the car. OD is usually only on when I go above 65 with cruise on.
 
It kinda does it automatically when I go to pass someone on the highway but I'll try to stay away from that from now on. I mean sometimes it seems to kick down further than it should.

Another question... I've never heard of a size x drill bit. Where do I get those? I didn't see any at Harbor Freight when I got the snap ring pliers kit. Are they special auto related drills? I don't want to drill the wrong size.

What's the deal with the prices on some of these parts? I just picked up the lower 1-2 spring. It was $42! The upper 1-2 was $12 and the 2-3 was $5. Is it made out of Platinum or what. I don't see anything that special about it.

The article said to leave it out to firm up the shift. How firm will it be and is it cool for normal driving. I don't plan on racing it but I might take it to the track just to see what it will do.

Anyways, I didn't get an answer on if the hole positions in that article are the same for a '93 separator plate. I don't want to make a mistake.
 
The separator plates are the same.

Usually the accumulator spring will break causing an abnormally hard shift under heavy throttle but otherwise shifts OK. The same is the result of leaving the lower spring out. It is too much for some people and OK for others. It's a personality thing.
 
The letter size "X" is .397" diameter. As an alternative you could probably get away with using a 25/64 drill (.3906" dia.) and just let it wobble a little, unless you have a really warn electric drill that has some shot bearings, and then it should be about right.
 
Last edited:
The lower spring was a little weak I think. If I leave that one instead of putting the new one in or leaving it out completely, will the effect be somewhere in between?

Do I have to get a new separator plate gasket if the VB is fairly new?
 
Gaskets- yes you do dot want to have a leak,
Spring-I left mine out for the firmer shift, I don't think it is real harsh unless you are always mashing your motor for full power shifts. It can make your tires chirp under those conditions. "Don't ya just luv it" !!
 
OK. Thanks. I think I am going to try just the accum upgrade for now and see how that works for me. Maybe I'll try the J-mod later.
 
Do it all now, you will be doing yourself a favor as you have the pan down etc, and you don't need to respend the $5.00/qt for the Mercon V. If you are worried about the firmer shifts then reread Jerry's paper. The firmer shifts actually increase your tranny life by reducing the slippage. Don't forget to drain the Torque convertor while you are there also.
 
I agree w/boss, I went on the light side of the j mods. IMO the trans still took to much time between gears. pulled it apart again(I hate drippy automatics can't seem to avoid the mess/bath!) went the full on route. in normal driving 1/4-1/2 throttle shifts are firm but not neck snapping. above 1/2 throttle it will bark the tires but still not as bad as my 4x4 c-6 w/ b&m stage 3 shift kit (460 w/ ford racing low rise duel quad, 500 cfm AFB carbs it actually gets better milage than the POS spread bore!) I don't drive my mark hard normally typically 1/4-1/2 throttle. so its perfect for me!
 
Well, I got all the accum parts and the two plate gaskets. I just need the deep sump pan and filter and the nerve to get started on this job. I am a bit intimidated.
 
Guess what! I just lost 3rd and 4th gear completely. I was on the highway and all of a sudden the tac just jumped to 6,000. I can drive with the OD off but only fast as 2nd gear can take it, it won't shift to third. If I hit the OD button it slips out of gear. What a way to start the summer! I found a re-man tranny from a '93 Mark viii with 40,000 miles on e-bay starting at $200. The problem is that it's in Florida and the seller won't ship, pick-up only.
 
And the saga continues. I just got back from Aamco transmission, they did a free diagnostic, I figured what the heck, there gonna tell me it needs a rebuild anyway.

When they dropped the pan the filter was sittin' in the pan and the o-ring was cock-eyed in the hole. The fluid was trashed of course and it really smelled. When they tried to put the filter back it wouldn't stay at all.

I guess I can get my money back for the accum parts since that would be a waist now.

They say that they think the o-ring goes to a Taurus. Are they interchangable? They found the one that works and put it back together.

How long would a tranny work before it fails without the filter attached? I suppose it would drastically reduce it's life.

Granted, it had shifting problems before but it was working, I mean I went to Nevada and back with no problems. Once on the highway it would cruise just fine.

If the last guy to work on it, which was less than a month ago, didn't use the correct parts, could he be responsible for it failing so quick? I'm wondering if I have a case, even if it wasn't perfect when I brought it in.

If it was perfect and all I wanted was a service and they installed the wrong part and the filter fell off who knows when, wouldn't it still have failed pretty soon anyway?

I understand that installing parts I brought in were not warrantied by the shop, but they were warrantied by the manufacturer. But the filter was provided by the shop. Shouldn't they still be responsible for THEIR work?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top