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Alright I'm done. Enjoy your message board, since it has become what Cal's board has been for a while now...just a bunch of flame wars. I've enjoyed all of the friendly members, and I hope that for your sake, it returns to what it once was. Thank you Sharon, JP, and Bud especially...

My wife just got an iPhone 3GS today for $50 + two year plan. (there was a catch...see below) Beat that! You'll never get a Mac JP. Those are for artists, musicians, small business folks, etc. An analogy: there are some who don't like 300 hp cars; it is for those people that...

Yes, anyone can do it.

LOL

By the looks of it, installing an illegal immigrant behind the dashboard is now cheaper than installing the control modules needed to operate the climate control.

Lonnie at blueovalchips.com can help...for a nominal fee of course. He should be able to email you a program that you can load into the XCal.

+1...though figuring out just how much to torque down the end links is not as easy as the instructions indicate. Doing what they say is not enough; I had to torque them down quite a bit more for some reason I do not now remember - they made noise, or something like that.

Yes...good thinking. That old rubber bushing has got to be going bad on a lot of Marks by now.

That makes sense. I was thinking into the future, when my channel goes bad ten years from now and replacements are gone. May have to just grind and Bond-O the thing in place if that happens. It's a hack job, but I did the same thing on the rusted out trunk channel of my 85 T-Bird, and it came...

Yes, his design is far superior. Kind of like the front sway bar. Bolts on both sides of the bracket. The end link will break before those brackets do. Not only did I shim them, but I used two nuts on each bolt...the nuts tended to back out on their own over time. Now for the jokers...

No, the end links should be fine. Poly can take an enormous amount of abuse.

Good questions. I expect mine to pass emissions (it did VERY well two years ago), but he can fail me for the AFPR. So I would need to buy a regular FPR, put it on, and retest. I though about doing this pre-emptively, but then decided not to. The test and repair centers seem to have bad reps...

Not only do I have to get a smog check again, I have to go to a TEST ONLY center...reserved for the top 15% of polluting models on the road (not volume weighted). I can understand why they required my old 85 5.0 T-Bird to do this, but why a Mark VIII? They should put swastikas on these places...

Check out this site, which says all tires over 6 years old should be tossed, including the spare: http://www.aa1car.com/library/tire_expire.htm How do you like those apples? You can apologize anytime.

Stick it in your ear...I read the description. What's with all you folks bashing me? Stored rubber tires will still go bad over time, just like milk or eggs. I guess you missed the news report on tire dealers selling old tires. Dealers are supposed to take tires off the racks when they reach...

Sounds like an intermediate clutch, but that's a wild guess. Someone else may have more insight.

Makes me glad cars in southern Cali don't have problems with rust or corrosion.

I haven't done it, but I would look into putting metal tape around the outside (and inside if needed), fill the inside with epoxy, remove the tape after the epoxy hardens, sand and paint. I did that with my upper intake tube and it looks factory.

Lash is what some folks refer to as a negative force on a propulsion system...in this case the drivetrain. When coasting, the car is moving the drive train components rather than vice versa, so all the gears are pushing on the other side of the teeth. If there is damage on that side of the...

Fuel pump wouldn't be gear or speed specific...and would reveal problems under open throttle rather than coasting.