1995 mark viii. A/C delete. Which one do I use?
- Thread starter Yarko
- Start date
driller
El Presidente
The Mustang Cobra didn't get the 4.6L DOHC until '96.
Jamesvinar
New member
You should be able to go without the pulley, I think what you needed to do was just re-position the tensioner then the 3.8 belt would fit
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IYA3O6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is the one we used on our 94 Mark VIII. Worked perfectly.
tixer
Lincoln Evangelist
Something like this looks like it should work, but it's "unproven" on a Mark, as far as I can tell.
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/4-6l-tech/144830-bye-bye-crappy-c-delete.html
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/4-6l-tech/144830-bye-bye-crappy-c-delete.html
tixer
Lincoln Evangelist
I saw that too, and just spent some time studying the differences in the tensioner, and the photos from that thread.
Without actually attempting it though, it's tough to determine the range of motion required on the tensioner. The only think I can see is that on the "2000+" one, maybe they're "clocking" the tensioner differently? It's really tough to tell from the photos though..
Without actually attempting it though, it's tough to determine the range of motion required on the tensioner. The only think I can see is that on the "2000+" one, maybe they're "clocking" the tensioner differently? It's really tough to tell from the photos though..
tixer
Lincoln Evangelist
Right. You can look up the parts, (and the part for our car) and see the differences. The "3-bolt" attaches to the timing cover with 3 bolts around the perimeter, whereas the "1 bolt" seems to only have a single bolt in the center of the unit. The 3-bolt is indeed the one used on our engines, too.
So assuming there is no "key" in the 1-bolt one, (a big "if") one could rotate it a few degrees either way to make sure the spring tension is correct on the belt. This wouldn't be possible with our "3-bolt" unit.
However, looking at the pictures, the tensioner arm really doesn't change position much from the "before" pic to the "after" one. What I don't know is if it is within the usual range of motion of the arm.
I'd really be tempted to pursue this. Worst case, you're out the cost of a new pulley, and a belt. But you eliminate a couple idlers in the process, and simplify the routing. It seems like the right move, if it can be made to work.
I think it all depends on how much one is in the mood of "tinkering." The sure thing is certainly the "dummy" bracket. It'll get the job done.
So assuming there is no "key" in the 1-bolt one, (a big "if") one could rotate it a few degrees either way to make sure the spring tension is correct on the belt. This wouldn't be possible with our "3-bolt" unit.
However, looking at the pictures, the tensioner arm really doesn't change position much from the "before" pic to the "after" one. What I don't know is if it is within the usual range of motion of the arm.
I'd really be tempted to pursue this. Worst case, you're out the cost of a new pulley, and a belt. But you eliminate a couple idlers in the process, and simplify the routing. It seems like the right move, if it can be made to work.
I think it all depends on how much one is in the mood of "tinkering." The sure thing is certainly the "dummy" bracket. It'll get the job done.
Last edited:
Mad1stGen
Booster
You don't need the a/c delete pulley. You don't need (or want for that matter) 1 bolt tensioner.
Replace the upper idler with a 6 rib one. Then run the belt over it, instead of under.
You might need to clearance the timing cover here and there to allow the belt to pass.
edit:
I dug up a google pic for ya. Don't mind the oil pump or electric water pump. It's easy.
Replace the upper idler with a 6 rib one. Then run the belt over it, instead of under.
You might need to clearance the timing cover here and there to allow the belt to pass.
edit:
I dug up a google pic for ya. Don't mind the oil pump or electric water pump. It's easy.
Last edited: