Anybody have Experience replacing a Gen I door latch assembly?

[HOTLNC]

I'm replacing a worn out driver side door latch. This is the latch assembly that is inside the door. This is the part that the inner and outer door handles are normally used used to unlock and open the driver's side door. My unit is so worn out, opening the door is a three step process: 1) Unlock door. 2) Open window. 3) Stick arm outside the car and open the door using the outside handle. The inside handle will only open the door as far as the safety catch.

Anyway, it looks like the lock solenoid and lock lever (that sticks out the inside top of the door) has to be removed from the latch after one disconnects the outside door handle rod. Once this rod is freed, you can then rotate the assembly to take off the pull lock and lock solenoid rod??? Maybe.

If anybody has done this before, I sure would appreciate a step by step. My shop manual really sucks. It just says remove it! I guess if you are factory trained, they give you memory implants to supplement the non-existent manual paragraphs. <sigh>

Thanks.

 

[billcu]

I've had to replace the power lock actuator and it showed the same symptoms that you mention. See if you can open the door in one step after unlocking the door using the switch AND while pulling up the manual lock as far as you can.

 

[HOTLNC]

I've had to replace the power lock actuator and it showed the same symptoms that you mention. See if you can open the door in one step after unlocking the door using the switch AND while pulling up the manual lock as far as you can.

Thanks for the feedback, but it's too late now to try. I found a step by step reference, but that too assumes a lot. By the way,....removing the power lock actuator: was you able to remove the actuator without drilling out the heavy duty pop-rivet? If not, what did you use to replace the monster pop-rivet?

 

[SCTBIRD1173]

Yeah the actuator rivet must be drilled out; I've used button head screws before to hold it in when I didn't have access to "monster pop-rivet gun" A dealer may have the rivet and gun if you have a relationship with any of them.

 

[Sierra3]

Yes they have to be drilled out I think there were three of them holding the whole assembly in there. (Did both of mine). They got the Rivet gun you need at Lowes and Rivets. Not really a monster gun, but bigger than the standard automotive ones. they also come with switchable heads for different size rivets. Now for actual door handle removal, look into the brain implant from the factory. instuctions really do suck in the manuals. Be prepared for a slow process of taping the door over for protection, twisting, freeing, tilting, swearing, and tilting, dropping clips and more swearing at the engineers for a crappy design. That is if youre trying not to damage the door paint. On a junkyard car? Hell, they come off easily with a couple of taps and angle change once the inside nuts are removed.

 

[billcu]

I actually used a big rounded stove bolt instead of a rivet.

 

[HOTLNC]

Well, I've gotten everything disconnected except for the inside door handle cable and the outside key lock rod. I figure If I can get the assembly loose from the key lock, I can remove the cable without having to drill out the rivets on the inside door handle. I'm having trouble bending my hand mid wrist to get the needed motion to remove the rod from the plastic holder on the lock. <sigh>

I think I'll try that stove bolt idea.

 

[HOTLNC]

Got it Out. Another question.

Anybody know the Secret of the Door Ajar Switch? I cannot remove it. I broke the thin washer under the switch body. I've attached a picture. That round tumor sticking out of the right side (Top of the latch) is the switch. Help!

 

[HOTLNC]

Well I found out how to do it on a Ford Truck forum....The switch has to be rotated 90 degrees. The part is keyed on the opposite side of my picture. There is a slot in the black plastic. You lift one edge of the plastic tab (the inner door edge is easier to bend), rotate the switch clockwise 90 degrees and out it comes.

Here is the link: http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1006950-03-door-ajar-indicator-switch-replacement-process.html

 

[Meister]

Seems like a lot of work for something that should be a simple repair. How many miles on your Mark to cause this to fail?

I had to replace the actuator in my '95 Taurus SHO, and had to drill out the huge rivets to get it done. As I had become a regular customer at the dealer parts counter they let me borrow the big rivet gun for a minute to secure the new one.

Best of luck!

 

[HOTLNC]

The car is pushing 290K miles really hard. Yes, the door latch is right up there in the cussing scale just below the level that sits the first generation's idle control valve.

I'm using a one inch .25/20 screw with two nuts to replace the "super rivet" when I install the electric lock activator.

 

[Meister]

I would consider replacing the actuator while your in there too. I wouldn't want to take all of that apart twice!

 

[HOTLNC]

Good point. Thanks

 

[HOTLNC]

Well, it is done. Works really good. The outside lever is still loose. I guess it is going to break one day. I took out the latch assembly without removing the manual pull lock rod and the inside door cable. The key door lock rod has to be disconnected. That takes a triple jointed wrist and a lot of magic words. The door handle rod is held on with a clip. That's easy to disconnect/connect. The outside lock sensor does not have to be removed, but the cable needs to be disconnected on the outside and moved inside and out of the way. I removed it and spent at least two hours trying to get it back on the end of the door lock. I used a 1/4 by 1 inch bolt and two nuts to hold the electric door lock solenoid.

 

[billcu]

Nice job! :thumbsup:

Working inside those doors is not much fun.

Thanks for the tips. I hope I never need to do this though.

 

[HOTLNC]

I can dig that.

My next task is to see why the starboard window will not operate. the window is in the up position. The motor works, but it is apparently not engaging the window regulator gear. Maybe the motor's bracket is bent or something.

Compared to the door latch, the motor is really easy to remove. Also, the service manual is not correct: it says you have to drill holes at the dimples to access the motor bolts. The holes are already there -- no dimples and no hole cutter needed.