Blend Door Actuator Removal and Repair (Write-Up)
- Thread starter J
- Start date
Thanks!
Been a long time lurker here. This is my third Mark VIII. Current one is a '98 LSC Black/Gray with all the toys.
Finally tackled the blend door. This write up was great! Had the job done in less than three hours and that was taking time to go to the hardware store.
My black arm was split but some crazy glue and an 89 cent 3/8 copper coupling has it back together and stronger than the factory design. It will sure be nice to have my toes as warm as the seat heaters keep the "boys" on these chilly mornings!
Thanks:wave:
Been a long time lurker here. This is my third Mark VIII. Current one is a '98 LSC Black/Gray with all the toys.
Finally tackled the blend door. This write up was great! Had the job done in less than three hours and that was taking time to go to the hardware store.
My black arm was split but some crazy glue and an 89 cent 3/8 copper coupling has it back together and stronger than the factory design. It will sure be nice to have my toes as warm as the seat heaters keep the "boys" on these chilly mornings!
Thanks:wave:
Actually a coupler with stop. (I should have taken a pic) I cut it in half with a dremel and notched the one side for the bosses on the arm. It is a very snug fit and totally covers the arm where the drive fits in. It slides into the box with no problem.
The stop refers to the indentation on the coupler. It is used to connect two pieces of 3/8 copper water line. It keeps each pipe from sliding in past half of the coupler.
It works out really well. I cut the coupler to the length of each side of the arm (where they usually crack) The one side was notched for the bosses on the arm. It is a very snug fit on the arm, almost a press fit. It will also slide into the box with no interference.
It works out really well. I cut the coupler to the length of each side of the arm (where they usually crack) The one side was notched for the bosses on the arm. It is a very snug fit on the arm, almost a press fit. It will also slide into the box with no interference.
jamies98lsc
New member
good luck finding a 1st gen blend door they have been obsolete for years, none in the country your best bet is a junk yard. i just did my buddies in his 98 for the second time, but when i did it the first time i didnt use a pheral on it, this time i did, and i had the whole thing done is 39 minutes lol i remember when an hour was impressive! having air in my garage at home is very nice, since i dont have my shop no more.
Hvac
Wow how did you think of that this is really good info thank you vary much,I just replaced that actuator 18 months ago and I was beside myself as to what was wrong now,but after seeing your post I was Amazed how you fixed that now Iget to do it all over again knowing there is a real fix,Thanks again cause we like our Mark.Thank you!!! Dennis::thumbsup:
Wow how did you think of that this is really good info thank you vary much,I just replaced that actuator 18 months ago and I was beside myself as to what was wrong now,but after seeing your post I was Amazed how you fixed that now Iget to do it all over again knowing there is a real fix,Thanks again cause we like our Mark.Thank you!!! Dennis::thumbsup:
J
OCCUPY LoD :)
Haha no problem Dennis (and kitty). I give all the credit of the compression fitting to Jeremi (Mad1stGen) He posted a picture in some random thread somewhere and I placed it back in my important information memory bank in my brain for later, next to birthday dates, mothers day ideas, and how to start the lawn mower.
J
OCCUPY LoD :)
Please see here:
Jeremi added some further information. When modifying your actuator, it is recommended you also perform the following modification to the actuator frame and stop.
http://lincolnsofdistinction.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=35012
Jeremi added some further information. When modifying your actuator, it is recommended you also perform the following modification to the actuator frame and stop.
http://lincolnsofdistinction.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=35012
