Crank no start

Jamesvinar

New member
Whats the best way to diagnose on this? Im thinking crank because that seems to be the common but bow can i single it out from the cam sensor?
 

tixer

Lincoln Evangelist
The car will still run with a bad Cam sensor.

It won't run, with a bad Crank sensor.. :)
 

chris2523

New member
its not that hard to replace.
remove the belt and the three compressor bolts, move the compressor over a bit, remove bolt, switch sensor, put it back.
 

tixer

Lincoln Evangelist
The part i'm more concerned about is that its on a hill and 100+ outside
Block the tires.. :D

Also. Take a good close look at the harness as it connects to that sensor. Mine was damaged at one point - pinched between the sway bar and the A/C compressor, crushing the wires. I had to splice in a new chunk of wire.
 

Jamesvinar

New member
Still trying to rule out anything else before i do this.

Although i did hear that when the crank sensor isnt sending a signal the check engine light will stay kn during the crank and the tach wont move
 

Jamesvinar

New member
Still trying to rule out anything else before i do this.

Although i did hear that when the crank sensor isnt sending a signal the check engine light will stay kn during the crank and the tach wont move
 

tixer

Lincoln Evangelist
Interesting thought. Although I have experienced this failure, I don't recall any specific observations of dash lights.

But I was stranded on the Iowa/MN border at the time, and very angry about it. So.. there's that.. :D

The connector itself is actually pretty easy to reach and disconnect, if you feel like fiddling with it. Often this problem stems from oil exposure from leaky gaskets higher up on the engine. It may just need a good cleaning.
 

Jamesvinar

New member
So today i wiggled it and it started right up so i took it home. Sunday i plan on replacing the sensor and cleaning up down there though
 

Jamesvinar

New member
Any idea how hard the sensot is to replace? I know the procedure with the ac compressor and everything but my cars a little bent up down there and everything om these cars are usually hard to get
 

driller

El Presidente
I would suggest thoroughly cleaning the harness connection and using some dielectric grease on the connection as a first approach. If the no-start symptoms continue, I would then consider replacing the harness connector by splicing in a new pigtail.

Only after those attempts at a solution fail to resolve the situation would I replace the sensor.

Should you decide to replace the crank position sensor, (once the AC compressor is out of the way) there is one bolt that holds the sensor in place. It is easy to remove the bolt and pull out the sensor. A 1/4" drive 10mm socket and ratchet should do it. Clean the area around the sensor location and do not allow any debris in the engine.

There should be an o-ring seal on the body of the sensor that you want to lubricate upon assembly. I've had one before where the bolt twisted off, so be sure not to over torque it and use some anti-seize on the bolt when you replace it.
 

Jamesvinar

New member
Personally i think if im going under there i may as well replace it, its a weak point on these cars.

I did notice that the negative terminal on the battery was loose so maybe thats the true source here...
 

driller

El Presidente
Personally i think if im going under there i may as well replace it, its a weak point on these cars.
The sensor is nothing more than an inductive pickup... nothing seriously there to go bad.

My theory is most that are replaced ends up fixing the issue not because the crank position sensor itself was bad but you in effect renewed 1/2 of the connection with the new sensor.

You can accomplish the same without removing the AC compressor by cleaning any corrosion from the connection and assuring a good seal with dielectric grease and/or replacing the pigtail.
 

Jamesvinar

New member
I went under there, looked for where all the AC bolts were and said nope. cleaned the contacts with a wire brush, put the grease on it and it started.
 

MarkVIIIMarc

New member
If it ever acts up again, it is not THAT bad of a job especially compared to the oil filter adapter plate gasket.

There was a pretty decent write up on here. When I did mine on the parking lot at work I made it harder by not taking the correct path to the AC bolts. I think I tried from top and bottom instead of through the wheel well. Going back together I saw the MUCH easier way to do it.

My recommendation is to set a fan to blow on you while you work on the car one evening with a big mug of ice water.
 
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