Drivers Power Seat Not Moving

S

steve

With "LOD" Since 1997
So my 97 has been my wife's primary car to get her to work for over a year now. She told me the other day that the drivers seat no longer moves, not sure if she did anything or its just went since it is old.

So I checked it out today. The passenger side works. The drivers power lumbar works. When I go to move the drivers seat, forward, back, up down, recline, incline, no movement, also no moment when I push the seat back forward but I can hear the relay click each time I move the buttons. I also hear the relay click when i used my FOB for the seat memory.

So where do I go from here to get to a fix?
 
driller

driller

El Presidente
FWIW, the same happened on my '96 passenger side. After removal and disassembly, I could find nothing wrong. In frustration, I sat the seat frame back in place and after plugging all the harness connections back in it worked as it should. I reassembled everything and it has been fine since.

I can only guess one of the harness connections went flaky and the act of unplugging it and plugging it back in fixed it.

I hope you can be so lucky. :)
 
B

billcu

Head Moderator
Also, the Gen 2 seat has a fuse under the seat you might want to check. I'm not sure what it protects, as I don't have my gen 2 wiring manual here today.

If that and the wiring checks out ok, it might be the seat control module if multiple motors don't work.
 
S

steve

With "LOD" Since 1997
billcu said:
Also, the Gen 2 seat has a fuse under the seat you might want to check. I'm not sure what it protects, as I don't have my gen 2 wiring manual here today.

If that and the wiring checks out ok, it might be the seat control module if multiple motors don't work.
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If the fuse was blown I wonder if I would still hear the click of the relay? My wife said her FOB driver 2, (that was never used for like 15 years) is not set for easy entry like mine. She said it just stopped moving. I know she was playing around with the car seats for the kids after I added the tether anchors. So she was probably just using the seat back to move the seat forward to get back there.

What stinks is the seat is low to the floor, would be nice if it was stuck in the high position to get my big hands under there easier and to see better.
 
Sierra3

Sierra3

New member
Steve, mine did that too when my control module shorted out and died. You can unbolt the rear two nuts and tip the seat forward and slip a 2x4 under there sideways under the rail to get access to the pigtail connections. (i ride with my seat on the floor also, all way down.) I had to hot wire mine to go rearward to clear the front nuts to take seat out and replace the control box under there. Also that outer cover slips up quite far, you just have to work your fingers underneath and slide open the hook and loop tape that holds it tight. I have little hands, but its definitely easier to see with that cover moved up and out of the way.
 
S

steve

With "LOD" Since 1997
Jeff, thanks for the tips. Hopefully I will get a chance this weekend to look into it deeper. Lucky for me it is stuck in the position for my wife, so she can continue to drive the Mark.

If it is the control module, do you know the availability and price range?
 
Sierra3

Sierra3

New member
Think i paid like 80.00 for it on ebay. When you need a part now and cant wait, you burn that sucker up and pay for it. haha I laugh at some of those prices those guys are getting on there, but when you need it you need it. The old story of supply and demand applies. Short supply and high demand, better be prepared to get raped. Better off to hunt one yourself at local savage yards and U pull it places. I think a reasonable price would be around 30.00 to 40.00 for that controll box. Considering dealership had them for around 200.00 new. Its not rocket technology in there. Just a whole bunch of surface mount ICs and banks of little relays that give out on certain functions. Happened to my 2004 Tahoe z-71 seats exactly same symptoms you are having. The relays cost like 6.46 (ordered from ebay) and to send it off and get repaired is like 126.00. So if youre good with electronics, and carefull, yank it yourself and solder in a new relay. Or just send it off to the repair guys and pay them the fee. Considering all the time i waited for mine to be stuck in customs from china (the relays) i could have sent the tahoe seat box to those guys and had it back in there alot quicker. Those seats are gear drives, so you can pull the box and send it off while the wife still is driving the car around. Make sure shes happy with the seat position, and yank the module out to send it off.
 
S

steve

With "LOD" Since 1997
Update, I have not been able to dive into this with snow and ice every weekend, but now the passenger side is not working. Since only my wife drives it and she was cleaning out the car we just discovered it now.

No snow or ice in the forecast so hopefully i can investigate more on Sunday. In the mean time i have a trans fluid leak up front, maybe be line to the radiator or external trans cooler i had put on 15 years ago. Sending it to a shop since i have no time or desire to lay on a cold floor if needed.
 
S

steve

With "LOD" Since 1997
UPDATE: seats are working. Both fuses were blowing, so the tech replaced them with self resetting breakers. Seats are working, if there is still an issue the recommendation was to replace the modules.

The good news was the tech found a $100 bill under the drivers seat. :D
 
S

steve

With "LOD" Since 1997
enriquei said:
Better news is the tech was honest enough to tell you.
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yes, his father owns the shop and the father lives in my town. He is a neighbor of a common friend, and also Filipino like my wife. Nice people and his shop has a good reputation. What is nice i drop the car off at his house, he takes it in to the shop then drops it back off at my house.
 
S

Steve_C

New member
Steve,
Good info, thanks!
I have the same problem with my drivers seat. When you say tech replaced both fuses, you are referring to the ones under the seats?
Thanks
 
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