Free ET

KStromberg

Vortech kicked in yo
Just randomly decided to get this out of the way for the most part tonight. I am being drawn towards aluminum Kirkey seats with the possibility of adapting Thunderbird manual tracks. This should be good for approximately 200#.

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driller

El Presidente
I could likely use a couple hundred pounds of weight reduction in the Blue Flame but I don't really want to do anything to take away from the aura of the Lincoln interior.
 

KStromberg

Vortech kicked in yo
I went out last night to the local metal recycling place and drove up on their scale. Without me, a 1/4 tank of gas, junk in the trunk including 2 amplifiers, one heavy crossbar for subframe drop, and a scissor jack and some random garbage with the 18" wheels and heavy nittos, the scale read 3660# There is still a lot more weight to go. We can do better. ;) Ditching the factory driver's seat and going with a couple 22# racing seats will drop it to about 3640# We'll call it a wash with the crap in the trunk since that probably made up for the 1/4 tank of gas. I have to drop the a/c compressor yet. The rest of the lines and condensor under the hood are gone. I'm being drawn towards racestar wheels where I would run 17x4s up front and 15" wheels out back. It should easily drop into the 3500# range and then it will probably be an ounce at a time here and there. I really don't want to run wheel adapters/spacers so I may be looking at finally hub swapping the car so that I actually have a good wheel selection to chose from. 5x108 pattern is a total joke in the performance wheel department. Draglites for that pattern are practically non-existent. I may have a full set of 18" Speedstars with tires and 255-50-16 Hoosier QT Pros for sale this winter.
 
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KStromberg

Vortech kicked in yo
I could likely use a couple hundred pounds of weight reduction in the Blue Flame but I don't really want to do anything to take away from the aura of the Lincoln interior.
Totally understandable John. I expected to get some people against the idea. Well, actually, a lot of people. LOL Lofty goals require dramatic action. I am using nothing more than age old drag racing techniques. It's not the car for it, but alas, I'm not that guy. I believe the car would run high 11s right now if a track was open. Here is a 30 degree temp drop compared to track day this year running it one last time for 2015 at 50 degrees sitting in a mostly empty interior.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zr7vHSLi0Oc


Also, I am well aware it may blow up next year too. No need in anyone mentioning that. ;) I'm utilizing E85 to get the ETs lower and hopefully prevent that from happening. If it doesn't blow, it will go. That I can guarantee. I'm looking forward to some good times next year. Not sure what I am going to do about the gear running out on me though at this point as you can see in the video. I'll have to figure that out. I was going to maybe leave this converter in the car and run it unlocked but it looks like I will be bouncing the limiter through the traps. I'll know more where the rev limiter can safely be at on corn but I'm not sure I want to bump it much higher. It is at 6700 rpms now and you can see I hit 110mph at 6600 so I only have 100 rpm left. I don't see that being good enough for the trap speeds I expect the car to hit now. Once on E85 my biggest concern, other than it blowing up on the top end is the oil pump gears and the crankshaft harmonics so I am still going to be figuring out how to keep those 2 things from turning into shrapnel. I seem to recall someone mentioning a horrifying scenario where the crankshaft slams into back of the crank pulley. I'd rather not have that in my life.

Call me suicidal I guess. But I'm just trying to have fun and push the limits.

I will gladly hear any input though. :eek:
 

driller

El Presidente
Your converter is killing you.

With 4.30s, 110 mph should be at 6000 rpms with a 26x9.5-16 tire.

I'm not "against" any idea, it's your car - do with it as you wish. And most importantly - have fun! :thumbsup:
 

KStromberg

Vortech kicked in yo
Your converter is killing you.

With 4.30s, 110 mph should be at 6000 rpms with a 26x9.5-16 tire.

I'm not "against" any idea, it's your car - do with it as you wish. And most importantly - have fun! :thumbsup:
It is killing me. 110mph with a locking converter I assume you mean. :rolleyes: I have so many things I need to do before spring this will probably be the most expensive offseason yet with this car especially if I switch out this converter.

I was thinking about using black wire loom and spraying the entire floorpan area inside black as well to make it all blend together and get rid of the sloppy wires everywhere look it has now. A crossbar between the B-pillars sounds like it may be necessary if I am to run harnesses rather than the factory seatbelts. BUT for now, I may just find a set of black seatbelts and use black backseat factory receivers that I can secure under the rear mounting bolt so that I have seatbelts once the racing seats are in.

I have a lead on some NRG Innovations fiberglass shell seats that I can get from a guy I know at cost that weigh 15#/each with manual adjustment sliders. Here is what they look like.

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Then I plan to put up a rear firewall where the backseat crossbrace is. Once that is in I can relocate my battery to the trunk if I want to.

I haven't decided for the door panels yet. Either tin or something else.

Ideas are rolling. I'm just trying to figure out how to put it altogether.
 

KStromberg

Vortech kicked in yo
Well, I went ahead and pulled the trigger on a couple weight reduction items.

Here are the pair of seats that I ordered. $380 shipped and they come with seat brackets and sliders. They are a fiberglass shell seat and weigh a whopping 12# each.
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Here are the Racestar draglites I ordered. 15x10s for the back and 17x4.5 for the front. I just scored Cobra hubs yesterday for a good deal so I will be hubswapping.

Racestar 15.jpg
17 racestar.jpg
 

tixer

Lincoln Evangelist
Not much to say, but I am watching this with great interest.


And also thinking about good condition, lightly used interior parts, that match my own car... :D
 

driller

El Presidente
Actually I do.

I found the weight of the 15x10 to be a hair over 15# per wheel.

The 17x4.5s are actually pretty much identical in weight coming in at 15.2# per wheel.
Thanks! Not sure what your wheel weight is now but that should be a good bit lighter! :thumbsup:

The Weld wheels I run weigh in about the same. The wheel/tire package weighs 34.5 lbs w/ Hoosier QTP 27x10.50-15 tires. The front skinnies tip the scales at about 29 lbs with the M&H front runners.
 

Sierra3

New member
Wow, strip it....haha no way was i going to loose the cush and power push of the stock seats, but those you're getting do look very attractive if you're going to go the seat delete way. Yes they really are that heavy once out of the car.
glad to hear youre hub swapping, i have a set of twice used adapter billet aluminum ones, but I don't like them for some reason. But they do work. I still haven't hub swapped yet, but looking for the stuff. I like the look of truck bed line X, for floor covering on the 4x4's, but that would defeat your weight shaving goals. I'd use flat black spray paint instead one you wire loom everything out.
replacing the doors with fiberglass would actually add weight once you brace them and add gussets, resin and braces everywhere. (Carbon fiber on the other hand......) :). The Mark 8 doors are actually lightweight for what is there. Just thin sheet metal and a thin cross brace for T bone protection. The biggest weight of the doors is the glass and regulators/motors. Take all that out and get some lexan windows cut, (held in with some nice aluminum channel trim and setscrews) and you could save weight there. Front and rear bumpers can be trimmed a little and still maintain structural integrity. The K member isnt all that heavy either, just had mine out with suspension attached to it with no motor, and was yanking it around pretty easy and also lifted it up onto a roller caddy to slid back under the car. You could go tube under there instead, but not that dramatic savings to be had other than nice clearance for all your other items, shaft, oil pan ect. Heaviest weight in these pigs is the glass. Wow on the back and front windows if you have ever had them out on a parts car we did. THATS where the weight is. Buttttt the windows are also an important structural part of our cars holding the twist of the top of car. But if you're caged or tube framed underneath, its not going to twist anyways, so go for it. Also on the trunk lid. They are heavy for what they need to be. I would definatley be interested in doing a carbon fiber trunk lid down the road project. There is alot of weight in the frame around the engine, but that's needed cause car is a uni body, type (unless you went tubed front end). hoods, are like the doors, they are lightweight to start with from the factory. Easily picked up by yourself. the rear K member is quite heavy and would definatley be nicer with tubed rear end in chromeoly, not mild steel. Sunroof weighs ALOT so better to look for a sunroof less car to drag with. But the car is pretty much very lightweight to point of being flimsy because its so thin (especially our anemic front fenders) cant even lean on them and they dent. its all the power accessories, door regulators and glass and front and back glass that make our cars pigs. we already have light weight aluminum upper and lower control arms, s threes not much you can take away but the accessories on these cars. Nope, im not loosing my carpet and cushy seats and AC. So if you're going balls to the wall, and converting it to a real drag car. Loose all accessories and non needed wiring harnesses and brackets for those accessories. And get lexan drag windows made up and Definately post pics. I would love to see how those look installed and how much they charge for them.
 
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KStromberg

Vortech kicked in yo
I'm curious, have you installed or test fitted those wheels yet?
I have not. I've been crazy busy with work. Preliminary suggestions that I have gotten is that everything should be a go. I'm going to need to possibly adjust ride height for 28" slicks. Also once Cobra rotors go on the back I might have to grind the calipers just a touch. It's all theoretical at this point.
 

driller

El Presidente
Thanks. Let us know when you do.

I'm wondering why you went with 15x10 vs 15x8? The reason I ask is I don't see many slicks that would fit our platform that require a 10" wide wheel? What size tire do you plan on?
 

KStromberg

Vortech kicked in yo
Thanks. Let us know when you do.

I'm wondering why you went with 15x10 vs 15x8? The reason I ask is I don't see many slicks that would fit our platform that require a 10" wide wheel? What size tire do you plan on?
I'm planning on running 275-60-15s out back. My decision at this point with the stubborn converter is to leave it unlocked and run a 28" slick out back so that I can have more mph headroom. So, it is kind of a decision that takes into account the converter. Plus I want a more aggressive look.

1.5-1.6 short times on the new combo would make me happy. I need to replace the diff bushings and get some bracing. The rear end has terrible slop right now and I still got a 1.74 out of it at full weight. She's got more. The lighter weight and timing bump on corn should be glorious.
 
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