front brakes? is it just me?

7

7 sek mark

New member
i have a full EBC front brake set up on the front of my car with the EBC dimpled and slotted rotors and the EBC greenstuff pads. i did notice a improvement in braking over stock when i put them on the only down side until now was a little noise. it sounds kinda like i stuck playing cards in my wheels but its not that bad. now on to the problem and the whole reason i put these rotors on my car was because my stock rotors were heat cracking. i noticed these rotors are now doing the same thing i still have just under 1/2 of the pad left but if i lay into the brakes for any time it feels like the front end is about to fall off the car from the vibes.

so has anyone found a good set of stock size rotors for the marks that will not heat up and warp or crack under hard use? i thought that by going with a good name brand rotor i would be getting a good set of brakes.
 
R

Red Box Rebel

New member
Stop this problem!

I am not a brake expert, but what did you do about the rear brakes?

Are the rear brakes doing their fair share of the braking? I am using stock rotors front and back and have had very few problems once I made sure that the brakes in front and rear were replaced at the same time.

When I replaced the front and rear rotors I used a good ceramic pad and I have not experienced the warping and vibrations I had prior to replacing the front and rear rotors and pads at the same time. I do not remember what brand of pad I used, but I did get them at either Autozone or NAPA.

Once I replaced the rotors and pads, I burnished the brakes by slowing braking them in with slow controlled stops from about 35 MPH. I made sure that not just the front calipers were doing the braking. So far I have gotten about 50,000 miles on the brakes , rotors and pads combined.

I would like to hear more from others who have more expertise in brake issues.
 
W

whiplash15

New member
I havnt had that much trouble with my Mark, but with the 89 up t-birds I about went nuts. I finally went into O'reillys and bought a pait or their "lifetime guarantee" rotors. I never had any more trouble.
 
Roadboss

Roadboss

On Work Release
I always use Bendix rotors and their Ceramix pads, also I use Cardone 's rebuilt Calipers. Proper pad break in is a must with our cars. My DD has over 60,000 on this setup and no problems. I never try to out run the law !!
 
7

7 sek mark

New member
they are not drilled all the way through they are just dimpled and slotted. i have yet to run from the cops in my car its the guy in the other lane that just happend to take off the same time i did that im trying to out run. so far my best kills are a turbo civic, 350z, and a toyota tacoma x runner but thats besides the point. my rear brakes are stock parts but even so they should still help with braking and not rely all on the fronts to do all of the work.
 
driller

driller

El Presidente
Most of my brake experience has to do with Ford trucks in fleet service with all kinds of drivers. The absolute best 'stock' combo we had for longevity was using premium Motorcraft rotors and mid-grade Motorcraft organic pads - NOT semi-metallic. You will have brake dust - but car washes and a little TLC will limit that problem.
 
T

T man

New member
I put on powerslot rotors on the front and rear. They're stock size and I haven't heard any noise really either. You can feel them grab if you lay on the breaks though.

tirerack.com hast them.
 
J

J

OCCUPY LoD :)
7 sek mark said:
so has anyone found a good set of stock size rotors for the marks that will not heat up and warp or crack under hard use? i thought that by going with a good name brand rotor i would be getting a good set of brakes.
Click to expand...
Honestly...A LOT of brake warpage will be based on how you drive (brake). I've seen the EXACT same rotor on two identical cars have different results. I blame a lot of warpage on the driver.....late braking when they stop. Stop early, don't heat up the brakes, don't hold your foot on the brakes when you're sitting at a light, and don't brake hard unless necessary.

Now that I got that out....the rotors I stand by are the Raybestos premium brand from Napa. I've installed them on countless cars and have not had any come backs. Another key is how you break them in so the pads can be "bonded" to the rotor.

maxmk8 said:
you should stop they will crack under heavy applications.
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Don't condem ALL drilled rotors because you got a bad set on eBay. The Shark still has the same drilled/slotted Raybestos with about 35k miles on them. NO cracks.

Remember my rotor direction thread? If they "litter" the rotor with holes when the vanes aren't directional it will weaken the rotor, causing failure like yours.

Remember the holes on your rotors being all "funky" and "mis-aligned"? Ya...don't blame the "type" of rotor, blame the manufacture or the drilling company. :smile-purple:
 
M

maxmk8

New member
J said:
Honestly...A LOT of brake warpage will be based on how you drive (brake). I've seen the EXACT same rotor on two identical cars have different results. I blame a lot of warpage on the driver.....late braking when they stop. Stop early, don't heat up the brakes, don't hold your foot on the brakes when you're sitting at a light, and don't brake hard unless necessary.

Now that I got that out....the rotors I stand by are the Raybestos premium brand from Napa. I've installed them on countless cars and have not had any come backs. Another key is how you break them in so the pads can be "bonded" to the rotor.



Don't condem ALL drilled rotors because you got a bad set on eBay. The Shark still has the same drilled/slotted Raybestos with about 35k miles on them. NO cracks.

Remember my rotor direction thread? If they "litter" the rotor with holes when the vanes aren't directional it will weaken the rotor, causing failure like yours.

Remember the holes on your rotors being all "funky" and "mis-aligned"? Ya...don't blame the "type" of rotor, blame the manufacture or the drilling company. :smile-purple:
Click to expand...
Jesse my problem was really icing on the cake... I can tell you for a fact most guys that track their cars (on the vette forum) don't use drilled rotors in fear of cracking. It is a VERY common issue.

I don't see anything "funky" about my rotors... I think the holes are a bit too close to the edge though...
 
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J

J

OCCUPY LoD :)
Tracking cars and normal daily driving are two totally different cases. You can't compare your rotors to Vettes that are driven at the track. :)

I thought a couple of the holes were out of sync with the pattern. Kinda like the row in the bottom right of the picture, they don't seem evenly spaced. Maybe its just my eyes, lol. I could have swore they were wierd in some way.
 
T

T man

New member
Be2lose said:
You put them on the rear? I did't think Power Slot made them for the rear.
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I'm not sure if thats the exact brand... They were a gift and an exact replacement rotor.

The fronts are from powerslot, but the rears came in a regular cardboard box and are of the same design.
 
J

JERM

New member
J said:
Now that I got that out....the rotors I stand by are the Raybestos premium brand from Napa. I've installed them on countless cars and have not had any come backs.
Click to expand...
I agree with you J, i have used the Napa premium drilled and slotted rotors on other applications with no issues. These rotors come with a lifetime warranty free from defects, so if it cracks you get a new one ;).
 
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