Gen2 OD-off button not working.

[markup97]

Cruising the 'search' function for answers, I see a ton for the Gen1 cars...........not so much for the Gen2 cars. The OD disengage button hasn't worked on my 97 since I got it. Any ideas on how this gets fixed on the Gen2 rides?

And am I correct in thinking the shift knob comes off by way of shifting back into neutral (to gain working room), slide the black collar on the handle down to expose the two screws holding the knob to the handle, and remove those two screws?



Figured I might as well get some little things done while the car is down awaiting replacement front sheetmetal.

 

[steve]

Check the wires to the button

 

[tixer]

You are correct on the procedure.

There are two small torx screws exposed by sliding down the collar, and there's one position on the shifter, where the collar slides down just enough to expose both.. Neutral sounds right..

The contacts for the button ride within a stiff plastic piece that slides into a groove in the shifter handle itself.

Also, keep your hand over the chrome button as you lift the handle up. It tends to launch out with some force, and the spring behind it is tough to spot against a dark surface, like the concrete floor of a garage...

Because the button is so far up inside the shifter, it may be tough to get up there to test the continuity.. It may require some creative testing procedures, but from what I've seen so far, I have no doubt that you'll be able to pull it off. (both the shifter, and the testing...)

 

[markup97]

Thanks Mike! I have a few 'Long Pins' (made when I was doing avionics testing/navigation equipment troubleshooting) and a good flashlight to go along with my Multimeter. I will be getting to the car later this evening to do some inside work.

On an unrelated subject, I will be pulling quite a bit of length of Air Ride System wiring out of the salvage yard car, along with some block connectors. When I wire in the ASHAM8 module, I will be doing it for a 'Plug in' installation (with correct color-coded factory wiring!).

 

[tixer]

Thanks Mike! I have a few 'Long Pins' (made when I was doing avionics testing/navigation equipment troubleshooting) and a good flashlight to go along with my Multimeter. I will be getting to the car later this evening to do some inside work.

Good luck!

On an unrelated subject, I will be pulling quite a bit of length of Air Ride System wiring out of the salvage yard car, along with some block connectors. When I wire in the ASHAM8 module, I will be doing it for a 'Plug in' installation (with correct color-coded factory wiring!).

I think this is a good idea. Troubleshooting the ASHAM8 installed as per the instructions is a nuisance. I think Bill did something similar to this for his cars, so he could move the system between them..

 

[markup97]

I tore into her yesterday, and found the reason for none of my center console lighting working, no rear window defrost, AND the overdrive button not cancelling overdrive. When the dealer put the car back together, all of the electrical plugs were buried under the carpet, and were NOT hooked up!

Mike, you were correct in Neutral being the gear to be in for the shift lever slip-sleeve to drop all the way down, allowing access to the two torq screws holding the knob to the lever arm.

 

[tixer]

Great news! So everything fired right up after it was connected?

 

[markup97]

Yes it did, with no hiccups. Now I have to check my puddle lamps (probably bulbs burned out, as the LED turn lamps work) and get them working. Once I get the camera charged and internet access at the house (not my house I am staying at), I will document some of this so others can benefit from the work (as I have some ideas I will be implementing shortly).

Looks like wrecking the car might have been a blessing for it, as I am now able to troubleshoot problems/get things fixed and update/upgrade components thanks to the car not being driven (while it waits for money to get the replacement body parts).