Got money to spend
- Thread starter Brad
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unstoppable
New member
Best bang for the buck is nitrous.
Which is more important out of exhaust or a chip? I say a chip only cause of your gears.
Which is more important out of exhaust or a chip? I say a chip only cause of your gears.
LINCOLNBOY
New member
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save exhaust for when you get headers, do it all at once, that way it'll be cheaper.Converter is a great mod. if you do a chip now, you might want it reburned for the converter. But definitely, converter and chip, you pick the order. then headers w/ exhaust.
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if you know the mods have the chip burned for those and and install in when you get them in
save exhaust for when you get headers, do it all at once, that way it'll be cheaper.Converter is a great mod. if you do a chip now, you might want it reburned for the converter. But definitely, converter and chip, you pick the order. then headers w/ exhaust.
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if you know the mods have the chip burned for those and and install in when you get them in
sleeper
Former LOD President
if it vibrates definitely get the driveshaft. the price on it is not out of line. it's high, but you aren't going to find an MMC one cheaper. I tried going straight to dynotech, they charge more than dennis does for the same exact shaft. you could try getting a custom steel one, but that's going to run about $300 by the time you're done and there's a good chance it will vibrate as well, no matter how well built. It's not a balance issue so much as a material properties issue.
lose the egr if you can get away with it. i don't know how strict they are in chicago. personally, i'd get the kooks midlengths if i had it to do over again. with long tubes getting the tranny in and out is much, much harder.
lose the egr if you can get away with it. i don't know how strict they are in chicago. personally, i'd get the kooks midlengths if i had it to do over again. with long tubes getting the tranny in and out is much, much harder.
LINCOLNBOY
New member
HOW much do you have
I do not think you are in for the bang for the buck mode yet. You will prbably have all of these mods sooner or later.
I think you are on the "I will do a lot of mods, now I need to do them in concert with each other to keep from spending extra cash" mode
I suggest getting the chip after the headers, convertor ect. You can take turn the EGR MIL off and whatever else you want to do with a chip/tune.
Exhasut-- Dave is right, you will save about $100 if you do the exhaust and headers at once.
Right now I suggest getting a convertor and fuel pump combo. The main reason is once you have headers on, it will be a nightmare getting the convertor changed. You will have to take the headers off to get the tranny out and drop the stock K member to do it. Not Fun. And while you have the gas tank out, might as well throw a 100$ walboro in there while you are at it. Now you are covered with N2O or SC one day. IMO that would be the best way to go.
I think you are on the "I will do a lot of mods, now I need to do them in concert with each other to keep from spending extra cash" mode
I suggest getting the chip after the headers, convertor ect. You can take turn the EGR MIL off and whatever else you want to do with a chip/tune.
Exhasut-- Dave is right, you will save about $100 if you do the exhaust and headers at once.
Right now I suggest getting a convertor and fuel pump combo. The main reason is once you have headers on, it will be a nightmare getting the convertor changed. You will have to take the headers off to get the tranny out and drop the stock K member to do it. Not Fun. And while you have the gas tank out, might as well throw a 100$ walboro in there while you are at it. Now you are covered with N2O or SC one day. IMO that would be the best way to go.
driller
El Presidente
If your driveline vibrations are bad, I would do something there IMHO, before you start having aftershocks in the transmission. Since you're a DIY'er you may consider a one piece '93 shaft with new u-joints and a high speed balance. Or drop the big bucks on the MMx shaft. IMO you are inviting problems continuing to drive with the vibrations.
Of course you could just drive below 70 all the time to avoid the vibrations. ::wtf:: (I didn't think so)
Now if you could land a stall converter at a decent price and do both at once, that would be sweet. :9
Of course you could just drive below 70 all the time to avoid the vibrations. ::wtf:: (I didn't think so)
Now if you could land a stall converter at a decent price and do both at once, that would be sweet. :9
unstoppable
New member
I talked to one of the tech guys at EDGE and he said they would have their Street Edge converter out in a couple weeks.
This is the one you want.All they have available right now is their Mild Street Edge.It wont stall high enough.
The street edge can stall anywhere from 1500-5500 RPM.
The mild edge is only good to 450 Crank HP and in our cars only about 2500 RPM.
The price is going to blow Precision out of the water.IN the mid 500 dollar range for the good one and like 380 for the mild one.
Wait a week or two and give them a call.I have personally seen these guys in action and they did what other companies couldn't on a small displacement high HP turbo car.One word - AWESOME!
This is the one you want.All they have available right now is their Mild Street Edge.It wont stall high enough.
The street edge can stall anywhere from 1500-5500 RPM.
The mild edge is only good to 450 Crank HP and in our cars only about 2500 RPM.
The price is going to blow Precision out of the water.IN the mid 500 dollar range for the good one and like 380 for the mild one.
Wait a week or two and give them a call.I have personally seen these guys in action and they did what other companies couldn't on a small displacement high HP turbo car.One word - AWESOME!
unstoppable
New member
TCI has been around for a long time and trusted in the GM market.But when I get one for my black car I'm giving EDGE a try.What I have seen with my own two eyes has been very convinceing.
there goes this weeks pay check, after that Im going with kooks uncoated headers and them im coating them my self
driller
El Presidente
Probably squat difference in weight. Both aluminum alloy, different in actual allot and maybe wall thickness, but not enough to matter.
The stringent requirements in the balancing and u-joint fitment of the MMx shafts is a lot of the reason of their success.
From http://www.dynotechengineering.com/
The five most critical elements of your driveshaft.
1. How tightly do they hold universal joint clearances?
Dynotech holds u-joint clearance to less than 0.002".
2. How tightly do they hold shaft runout?
Dynotech holds shaft runout to less than 0.010".
3. How tightly do they hold their balance specifications?
Dynotech balances all driveshafts to less than 0.20 oz-in
4. When you provide your builder with a shaft length, how closely will they match it?
Dynotech builds all shafts to within 1/16" (.0625"), guaranteed to fit!
5. What speeds do they balance their shafts at?
Dynotech has the capability to balance most shafts at up to 8,000 RPM
The stringent requirements in the balancing and u-joint fitment of the MMx shafts is a lot of the reason of their success.
From http://www.dynotechengineering.com/
The five most critical elements of your driveshaft.
1. How tightly do they hold universal joint clearances?
Dynotech holds u-joint clearance to less than 0.002".
2. How tightly do they hold shaft runout?
Dynotech holds shaft runout to less than 0.010".
3. How tightly do they hold their balance specifications?
Dynotech balances all driveshafts to less than 0.20 oz-in
4. When you provide your builder with a shaft length, how closely will they match it?
Dynotech builds all shafts to within 1/16" (.0625"), guaranteed to fit!
5. What speeds do they balance their shafts at?
Dynotech has the capability to balance most shafts at up to 8,000 RPM