Heater Core Replacement!
- Thread starter Kale
- Start date
[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
The heat still works, but I'm getting foggy windows and that oh so pleasant aintifreeze aroma. I'm 99.999% sure the heater core is to blame. It is 11 years old.Anyone have any words of wisdom before I yank out the instrument panel?Kale
[/div]
If it were me, I would see if I could save myself the work by using some kind of stop leak.
But, it is essential that the leak be stopped. I had the problem in my old TBird and I got sick a lot from the fumes.
The heat still works, but I'm getting foggy windows and that oh so pleasant aintifreeze aroma. I'm 99.999% sure the heater core is to blame. It is 11 years old.Anyone have any words of wisdom before I yank out the instrument panel?Kale
[/div]
If it were me, I would see if I could save myself the work by using some kind of stop leak.
But, it is essential that the leak be stopped. I had the problem in my old TBird and I got sick a lot from the fumes.
budpytko
Super Senior Associate
"If it were me, I would see if I could save myself the work by using some kind of stop leak."
I would NOT use STOP LEAK in one of todays engines! I used it back in the 50's and 60's and saw the mess it created...passages are too small today and you chance screwing something else up. Bite the bullet and fix it right.
Bud Pytko
'97 LSC Silver Frost
'92 F250 Banks TurboDiesel Bimini Blue
http://myfilelocker.comcast.net/charlespytko/Lincoln/BudPytko97LSC.JPG
I would NOT use STOP LEAK in one of todays engines! I used it back in the 50's and 60's and saw the mess it created...passages are too small today and you chance screwing something else up. Bite the bullet and fix it right.
Bud Pytko
'97 LSC Silver Frost
'92 F250 Banks TurboDiesel Bimini Blue
http://myfilelocker.comcast.net/charlespytko/Lincoln/BudPytko97LSC.JPG
[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
"If it were me, I would see if I could save myself the work by using some kind of stop leak."I would NOT use STOP LEAK in one of todays engines! I used it back in the 50's and 60's and saw the mess it created...passages are too small today and you chance screwing something else up. Bite the bullet and fix it right.Bud Pytko'97 LSC Silver Frost'92 F250 Banks TurboDiesel Bimini Bluehttp://myfilelocker.comcast.net/charlespytko/Lincoln/BudPytko97LSC.JPG
[/div]
I used the silver powder sold in a small canister when my radiator on my Mark leaked. It stopped the leak and I haven't had problems since.
"If it were me, I would see if I could save myself the work by using some kind of stop leak."I would NOT use STOP LEAK in one of todays engines! I used it back in the 50's and 60's and saw the mess it created...passages are too small today and you chance screwing something else up. Bite the bullet and fix it right.Bud Pytko'97 LSC Silver Frost'92 F250 Banks TurboDiesel Bimini Bluehttp://myfilelocker.comcast.net/charlespytko/Lincoln/BudPytko97LSC.JPG
[/div]
I used the silver powder sold in a small canister when my radiator on my Mark leaked. It stopped the leak and I haven't had problems since.
M8SHOSCGUY
New member
As one who has done a number of heater cores on Fords (Not a MK8 yet however), the first item at the start of the assembly line is the heater core. Not a fun job. First thing I'd do is take out the passenger front seat. The stop leak doesn't work so well with today's aluminum radiators/heater cores and a 16 PSI radiator cap. They expand/contract more than the brass cores of yesteryear. Good luck.
mark
mark
Okay, one more question before I start ripping things apart tomorrow, is there anything else that I should replace while I have the dash apart? I'm thinking Blower Motor at least. And what about buying the heater core from the local Auto Parts store? They are only $45 and have a "lifetime" warranty. Good idea or no?
Kale
Kale
driller
El Presidente
[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
Okay, one more question before I start ripping things apart tomorrow, is there anything else that I should replace while I have the dash apart? I'm thinking Blower Motor at least. And what about buying the heater core from the local Auto Parts store? They are only $45 and have a "lifetime" warranty. Good idea or no?
[/div]
Check the main I/P wiring harness running side to side for chafing. Usually only the blower motor harness between the controller and motor needs replaced. If the heater core is new, I see no difference in source. You may consider re-coring the OEM if a good radiator shop is known to be in your area. I'm not a big fan on saving $2 for parts so hard to replace, regardless of warranty. About the only other thing that comes to mind is the blend door motor.
Okay, one more question before I start ripping things apart tomorrow, is there anything else that I should replace while I have the dash apart? I'm thinking Blower Motor at least. And what about buying the heater core from the local Auto Parts store? They are only $45 and have a "lifetime" warranty. Good idea or no?
[/div]
Check the main I/P wiring harness running side to side for chafing. Usually only the blower motor harness between the controller and motor needs replaced. If the heater core is new, I see no difference in source. You may consider re-coring the OEM if a good radiator shop is known to be in your area. I'm not a big fan on saving $2 for parts so hard to replace, regardless of warranty. About the only other thing that comes to mind is the blend door motor.
Hi Kale
Just my opinion, get a core from the dealer. Life time warranties are nice, but after you finish this job, I guarantee you will not want to remove it again for a warranty replacement. Set aside an entire day and take note of how you take things apart. that entire front dash has to come off. Disconnect your battery as to not set off you air bags. Good
luck, I do not envy you.
Just my opinion, get a core from the dealer. Life time warranties are nice, but after you finish this job, I guarantee you will not want to remove it again for a warranty replacement. Set aside an entire day and take note of how you take things apart. that entire front dash has to come off. Disconnect your battery as to not set off you air bags. Good
luck, I do not envy you.
Let me tell anyone who is entertaining this job IT IS A NIGHTMARE!. If I would have known before I started this job how frustrating it would be, I would have paid the 9 hours labor +parts to have the dealer do the job.
I finally got the dash out after snipping a bunch of wires and using brute force to disconnect the main harness. And after all the BS I went through ripping this car apart, I still cannot get the heater core out. The two hoses that run into the engine bay are inacessible. The hose clamps that connect them are facing down and I can not get anything in there to get them off. It looks like there is a big hole in the firewall and that I should be able to pull the entire assembly out through the hole but that hasn't worked yet either.
So my question is how in the hell is the heater core supposed to come out? Is the hole in the firewall indeed big enough to pull the hoses through with them still attached or is it just two small holes? There is a gasket surrounding them so I can't tell for sure...
Kale
I finally got the dash out after snipping a bunch of wires and using brute force to disconnect the main harness. And after all the BS I went through ripping this car apart, I still cannot get the heater core out. The two hoses that run into the engine bay are inacessible. The hose clamps that connect them are facing down and I can not get anything in there to get them off. It looks like there is a big hole in the firewall and that I should be able to pull the entire assembly out through the hole but that hasn't worked yet either.
So my question is how in the hell is the heater core supposed to come out? Is the hole in the firewall indeed big enough to pull the hoses through with them still attached or is it just two small holes? There is a gasket surrounding them so I can't tell for sure...
Kale
driller
El Presidente
[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
...The hose clamps that connect them are facing down and I can not get anything in there to get them off.
[/div]
Are they the OEM spring clamps? Can you twist the clamps so the tabs are up? I have done this on other clamps that were 'inaccessible'. You have to generally use appropriate sized channel-lock pliers and snag the tab that causes the clamp to unspring as it is twisted around. I do the same to position the tabs as I want them upon reassembly.
They make a special plier type tool as well for these clamps. You may call your local auto-parts store and inquire.
...The hose clamps that connect them are facing down and I can not get anything in there to get them off.
[/div]
Are they the OEM spring clamps? Can you twist the clamps so the tabs are up? I have done this on other clamps that were 'inaccessible'. You have to generally use appropriate sized channel-lock pliers and snag the tab that causes the clamp to unspring as it is twisted around. I do the same to position the tabs as I want them upon reassembly.
They make a special plier type tool as well for these clamps. You may call your local auto-parts store and inquire.
No, they are the screw in type. I tried everything I could to get just one of them off...no deal 
It now looks like I will have to remove the entire evaporator in order to get the hoses off. It will still be tough to get to one of the bolts that holds it in place, but I think if I can remove the entire assembly, I will be able to change the heater core.
In the meantime, the car is in shambles, and I don't have the time or energy to put it back together. Even if I do, I will probably yank everything out, alarm, suspension relays, switches, etc., since I had to cut so many wires. This has been a very frustrating and depressing ordeal to say the least. My Mark may end up being parted out after all is said and done. I'm thoroughly pissed!!! }( }( }(
Kale
It now looks like I will have to remove the entire evaporator in order to get the hoses off. It will still be tough to get to one of the bolts that holds it in place, but I think if I can remove the entire assembly, I will be able to change the heater core.In the meantime, the car is in shambles, and I don't have the time or energy to put it back together. Even if I do, I will probably yank everything out, alarm, suspension relays, switches, etc., since I had to cut so many wires. This has been a very frustrating and depressing ordeal to say the least. My Mark may end up being parted out after all is said and done. I'm thoroughly pissed!!! }( }( }(
Kale
unstoppable
New member
DOnt get too dejected, Kale.Stay with it, youll get it.Just take your time and dont let it get to you.
M8SHOSCGUY
New member
Did you try a 1/4" drive set of sockets/extensions/universal joint on the clamp screw hex heads? Typically they're 8, 9 or 10 MM, depending on clamp size. Those spring clips suck big time, at least the screw clamps can usually be worked.
mark
mark
I already tried the dremel, that didn't work either, too tight. And you can not get to the screw heads to loosen them. I even tried hammering them off.
Removing the entire evaporator requires that I disconnect the A/C system. I'm not sure how to do it so the car will be sitting for a while. If I buy the STS I have been looking at for a while I'm gonna be selling my 20s, 18s, LSC bumpers, motor, trans, everything...
Kale
Removing the entire evaporator requires that I disconnect the A/C system. I'm not sure how to do it so the car will be sitting for a while. If I buy the STS I have been looking at for a while I'm gonna be selling my 20s, 18s, LSC bumpers, motor, trans, everything...
Kale
unstoppable
New member
Dont do it Kale.Youll be SO dissapointed.Have you tried a pair of tin snips? You can cut the hose and then work the tip of the snips in and cut a little at a time.Please dont give up cause of this.We'll keep trying to help you the best we can.
Check your PMs
Check your PMs
The car has several other small problems that need to be fixed so it's not just the heater core that is bad. Plus, with as many miles as I have, there are lots more problems soon to come.
Right now I plan on taking my time and fixing it, but I would sell the entire car right now for cheap if anyone wants it. It's probably only worth $3000 in RUNNING condition. I could part it out and probably get that much. We'll just have to see what happens, I bought a 99 STS today so I'm not in a hurry to get it fixed...
Kale
Right now I plan on taking my time and fixing it, but I would sell the entire car right now for cheap if anyone wants it. It's probably only worth $3000 in RUNNING condition. I could part it out and probably get that much. We'll just have to see what happens, I bought a 99 STS today so I'm not in a hurry to get it fixed...
Kale