HELP!! :CYL Head Replacement
- Thread starter Lvnmarks
- Start date
driller
El Presidente
The first one is definitely for the AC compressor (clutch).
The second one resembles a temp sensor but not so sure whether it's air or coolant. Maybe even head temp?
I don't think the Town Cars had knock sensors?
Lvnmarks
quandoomniflunkusmoritati
There is one temp sensor on the left bank inside the valley on the #2 cyl. The one in the picture goes back to a place I can’t see. I don’t have a plug in my harness for it so I won’t worry about it.
Got about %98 of the motor in but can get the left upper motor mount bolt in, it just won’t align properly. I was thinking about unbolting the Trans cross member so I can shift the whole assembly around to align it. After that is done I just have the exhaust (4 bolts) to do and then I'm done. I’ll be starting when I get home tonight, with or without the exhaust hooked up.
Got about %98 of the motor in but can get the left upper motor mount bolt in, it just won’t align properly. I was thinking about unbolting the Trans cross member so I can shift the whole assembly around to align it. After that is done I just have the exhaust (4 bolts) to do and then I'm done. I’ll be starting when I get home tonight, with or without the exhaust hooked up.
Lvnmarks
quandoomniflunkusmoritati
Well smoothed a few bumps over and got er running. The only issues I'm having now is two coolant leaks from the new block heater and thermostat housing. I've tightened both down several times but I'm still getting some small seaping from both.
Also when I put a zip tire around the crank position sensor I cut through one wire so I have to go to Ford tomorrow and just get another plug. It's closer then any junk yard. I had to zip tie it because the locking tab was broken, just like the fuel injectors.
The major "F" up on my part came from the oil filter adapter. I reused the old hardware and failed to see one of the inserts from the old gasket on the bolt. So when I put it back together it poured out, so removed the insert and re-tighten everything. Well ended up cracking it so I had to go to my spare. Bolted it down and all is good.
Ill get the new plug tomorrow and take her to the car wash, she's kind of a dirty whore right now.
Also when I put a zip tire around the crank position sensor I cut through one wire so I have to go to Ford tomorrow and just get another plug. It's closer then any junk yard. I had to zip tie it because the locking tab was broken, just like the fuel injectors.
The major "F" up on my part came from the oil filter adapter. I reused the old hardware and failed to see one of the inserts from the old gasket on the bolt. So when I put it back together it poured out, so removed the insert and re-tighten everything. Well ended up cracking it so I had to go to my spare. Bolted it down and all is good.
Ill get the new plug tomorrow and take her to the car wash, she's kind of a dirty whore right now.
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tixer
Lincoln Evangelist
wow. that sounds like something that simply shouldn't leak...
edit: does it matter which side of the thermostat the o-ring sits upon?
SCTBIRD1173
Mark my Bird!
Nice work! How's it running? Make any progress on the coolant leaks?
Lvnmarks
quandoomniflunkusmoritati
Well I picked up some new gaskets, RTV, and some more coolent. I'm going to wait till next weekend and try to fix the leaks. They are slow leaks so shouldn't be any major issues waiting till then.The car is running well otherwise, no bad idle any more
Now I've got a recurring CEL, P1131. From reading around I got a malfunctioning O2 sensor. Bank one, upstream. Which side is bank one? I have all new sensors and I'm wondering what is the difference from the upstream and downstream sensor. The one's from the factory all look the same but the new one's are different from up/down.
Now I've got a recurring CEL, P1131. From reading around I got a malfunctioning O2 sensor. Bank one, upstream. Which side is bank one? I have all new sensors and I'm wondering what is the difference from the upstream and downstream sensor. The one's from the factory all look the same but the new one's are different from up/down.
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jackofroses
New member
loved reading about your project ....
and in an off-the-wall sort of way, it really inspired me.
seeing those pics of you town car hauling that t-bucket carrier around finally helped me to not cave in to some of the pressure i was feeling to get a truck.
I'm going to get a hitch (i already have two trailers) and my old town car is my new truck!
works for me.
i remember a car racer who hauled his race car with an older town car , and said it was perfect =]
(i have a truck , but its an old '78 project , that isn't really eager for the road, yet)
and in an off-the-wall sort of way, it really inspired me.
seeing those pics of you town car hauling that t-bucket carrier around finally helped me to not cave in to some of the pressure i was feeling to get a truck.
I'm going to get a hitch (i already have two trailers) and my old town car is my new truck!
works for me.
i remember a car racer who hauled his race car with an older town car , and said it was perfect =]
(i have a truck , but its an old '78 project , that isn't really eager for the road, yet)
SCTBIRD1173
Mark my Bird!
Upstream is the O2 sensor before the cats that helps control the air/fuel mixture. The downstream (cat monitor) after the cats, just tells the PCM how efficient the cats are working.
Lvnmarks
quandoomniflunkusmoritati
I'm going to try and swap the O2's around and see what happens. Start with the easy stuff you know.
Down the road someday I'm going to have a larger hitch made so I can haul my mark around if I ever need too. That’s the main reason why I kept the air ride, I love when people look at me with doubt. I just start her up, lift up and haul away!
When Tixer isn’t looking I’m steeling his rear axle and extra muffler that he doesn’t need
Down the road someday I'm going to have a larger hitch made so I can haul my mark around if I ever need too. That’s the main reason why I kept the air ride, I love when people look at me with doubt. I just start her up, lift up and haul away!
When Tixer isn’t looking I’m steeling his rear axle and extra muffler that he doesn’t need
jackofroses
New member
so here's a muffler observation/ question.
my retired old 95 tc had pretty stainless duals that made a really sweet whoooshh when you put a foot in it.
the 95 on the road has tired steel duals that don't quite leak. they have more of a rattlebleehh sound.
now the 93 i just got just has the single , and doesn't 'speak up' at all...its just whisper quiet.
is the nasty sounding system getting plugged or pinched?
does the extra muffler and hpipe really add that much.
seems strange to me to do exhaust work that doesn't 'need' doing. I''d much rather put the good pipes on the first car that needs them.
now the sick sounding car has a mustang rear member.
i forgot to count the gears when i shoehorned it in there,
but if i'm going 44mph , i'm actually going 55....
that could be effecting the sound i imagine.
my retired old 95 tc had pretty stainless duals that made a really sweet whoooshh when you put a foot in it.
the 95 on the road has tired steel duals that don't quite leak. they have more of a rattlebleehh sound.
now the 93 i just got just has the single , and doesn't 'speak up' at all...its just whisper quiet.
is the nasty sounding system getting plugged or pinched?
does the extra muffler and hpipe really add that much.
seems strange to me to do exhaust work that doesn't 'need' doing. I''d much rather put the good pipes on the first car that needs them.
now the sick sounding car has a mustang rear member.
i forgot to count the gears when i shoehorned it in there,
but if i'm going 44mph , i'm actually going 55....
that could be effecting the sound i imagine.
Lvnmarks
quandoomniflunkusmoritati
Thought this could use an update. Finally after a year I got around to spending some time fixing the TC's little problems, well one turned out bigger then expected.
I couldn't completely stop the coolant leak from the installed block heater so I opted to throw it in the trash and just re-install the frost plug. If I ever decide to do that again I will be sure to get another design.
Over time I had another coolant leak of a larger proportion. Some how my gaskets started leaking and eating at the aluminum on the head causing a large leak at the intake-to-head gasket. So I had to go with the only option I had at the time and that was to go with an all plastic used intake. But I did use new gaskets from rock auto and some RTV to fill the holes where the aluminum was being eaten.
So new coolant, intake gaskets, new frost plug, swapped the O2's around, oil change and some sway bar bushings she's feeling healthy again.
I couldn't completely stop the coolant leak from the installed block heater so I opted to throw it in the trash and just re-install the frost plug. If I ever decide to do that again I will be sure to get another design.
Over time I had another coolant leak of a larger proportion. Some how my gaskets started leaking and eating at the aluminum on the head causing a large leak at the intake-to-head gasket. So I had to go with the only option I had at the time and that was to go with an all plastic used intake. But I did use new gaskets from rock auto and some RTV to fill the holes where the aluminum was being eaten.
So new coolant, intake gaskets, new frost plug, swapped the O2's around, oil change and some sway bar bushings she's feeling healthy again.