HELP!! :CYL Head Replacement

driller

El Presidente
I applaud your work but it sure seems like a lot of grief when you could've just used a Time-Sert?

I hope it all turns out for the best. :)
 

Lvnmarks

quandoomniflunkusmoritati
Thank you, my reasoning is that the engine never ran correctly, needed a new intake, idled poorly and wanted heads with more threads in them for the plug. The cost of the motor justified what it would have cost for the intake. Granted I did buy extra parts in doing this making it cost more but it was one of those "while I'm there" situations.

All in all I've got a car down for a week and $500 out of pocket and In turn I got a car that should go for quite a bit longer then it would have on that week motor (if this one starts).
 

driller

El Presidente
... In turn I got a car that should go for quite a bit longer then it would have on that week motor (if this one starts).
Yeah, even at 147K the newer motor should serve you well for many miles to come. It looks pretty clean inside from the pics.
 

Lvnmarks

quandoomniflunkusmoritati
I'm going to try and take care of this one a little better then the last one. The 01 motor burned allot of oil and coincidentally I only ever added oil and spun new filter on once and a while.

Took a break last night, I had to work this weekend so last night I just took care of my back. Hopefully get the rest of the new gaskets on and get er hanging from the lift tonight.
 

Lvnmarks

quandoomniflunkusmoritati
Well last night went kind of long, dint get to bed until 3am and had to go to work at 6am but the good news is the motor is sitting in the engine bay all lined up with the transmission and tq converter.

Had to change over the oil pan, pick up tube and pass side exhaust manifold. Along with changing the plugs and putting new gaskets on the valve covers we cleaned up the motor and slowly dropped it in. for the most part it went in fairly easy, dint even have to get under the car to align the trans it was accessible from the top.

There are no bolts in there right now but tonight I will be installing the wiring harness and upper plenum, plus whatever else is lying around that I can get to tonight.

While the engine was out I also installed a Mark VIII tq converter but not before I replaced the Trans pump seal. Since I was using the mark converter we had to swap fly wheels as well. The 2004 valve covers can be used but the motor I got from the junk yard had cracks in both covers so I had to use the old cover, that’s why I’m using the old ones.

For anyone doing the oil pan or valve covers don’t forget to put a dob of gasket sealant where the front timing cover mates to the block because they are not even surfaces and need extra reinforcement.

I’m going to have to do 3 or 4 oil changes in the next few thousand miles because I did not like the color of the crank when I had it open. Does anyone recommend a good detergent to use in my oil to help clean the internals up?

I also had a question about the dipstick, the tube is the same but the 04 had a longer dip stick. So is it safe to assume I just use my shorter one with my smaller 01 oil pan? The 04 looks like it holds an extra qt.
 

tixer

Lincoln Evangelist
I'm glad to hear the project is progressing nicely. :)

although you are basically in uncharted territory, I'm thinking your theory about the dipstick is correct. If you are using the 01 oil pan, I'd stick with the 01 dipstick and oil quantities. The part that concerns me is that there'd really be no way that I can think of to ensure that the engine is being properly lubricated in that configuration.. Hopefully there are no other changes inside the engine that allow it to hold more oil up inside the heads, for example.

I suppose there was no way to modify the car to allow for fitment of the 04 pan? I'd like to think that "more oil" is better...
 

Lvnmarks

quandoomniflunkusmoritati
I'm glad to hear the project is progressing nicely. :)

although you are basically in uncharted territory, I'm thinking your theory about the dipstick is correct. If you are using the 01 oil pan, I'd stick with the 01 dipstick and oil quantities. The part that concerns me is that there'd really be no way that I can think of to ensure that the engine is being properly lubricated in that configuration.. Hopefully there are no other changes inside the engine that allow it to hold more oil up inside the heads, for example.

I suppose there was no way to modify the car to allow for fitment of the 04 pan? I'd like to think that "more oil" is better...
Thanks you!

The extra capacity oil pan can only be used on 03 and up because they switched from a welded frame to a sub frame design but the 4.6 motors are exactly the same except for the things that I changed. it’s just like using a 96 or older 4R70W without the deep sump pan (same trans just more fluid).

I’m also going to try and run the 30# injectors instead of the 24# that were on the old motor, there not that hard to change back if I have issues.
 

driller

El Presidente
When you add the required amount of oil (for the smaller pan), check the level with the dipstick(s). My bet is the shorter dipstick will show full and the longer one over full. Actually, both should read over full since the filter will be empty?
 

Lvnmarks

quandoomniflunkusmoritati
Got about %40 of the motor bolted/plugged back in. I ran brand new battery cables and the ground cable was a little bit too short to reach the back of the motor so I cleaned off a spot on the passenger motor mount and grounded the cable there. Hopefully there won’t be any issues with that. The terminals end on the factory cables are just pure junk in my opinion, so with new battery cables I also cleaned all the connection points on the starter and other power connection.

All the connectors for the fuel injectors broke when pulling the harness so I had to zip tie all them in place. I don’t see an issue but it seems like those connectors brake on just about any Ford I ever had.

I’ll be installing the upper plenum and everything else on the top end tonight. I only want to go under the car one night so I’ll get as much done as I can. Before I installed the exhaust manifolds I put new studs in the flange, look at the picture and you can see why. I don’t plan on dropping the exhaust any time soon but everything is going back together with anti seize.
 
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tixer

Lincoln Evangelist
Don't forget to make sure that the block is grounded to the frame, as well. I think this is usually done with those flat braided cables that "hop" the isolator on the motor mount.
 

Lvnmarks

quandoomniflunkusmoritati
When I was pulling the motor I didn't see any grounding straps on the motor mounts. But now that I have some extra cable I can ground the block to the frame somewhere. There is a factory ground with the negative cable that goes to the block also goes to the body just underneath the fender.
 

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Lvnmarks

quandoomniflunkusmoritati
Got about %80 bolted back up. All the electrical, fuel, vacuum lines are hooked up, throttle body all bolted up and cleaned up. I took a can of break klean to the inside of the TB and was amazed by how clean I got it.

Tonight I will crawl under the car and bolt up all the bottom stuff, top off the fluids and hopefully start it up tonight.
 

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tixer

Lincoln Evangelist
Fingers crossed: good luck!

I've noticed a couple broken injector plugs on my town car as well. the same fix was used.
 

Lvnmarks

quandoomniflunkusmoritati
I have two rouge plugs I need help identifying. I think one is for the clutch on the A/C compressor, I have just an A/C delete pulley I'm running so I think that is from the old compressor.



The other I think is for a knock sensor. It goes into the valley and disappears. I'm running my old (01) wire harness and there is no counterpart for the one in the valley.

What do you guys think?
 

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