Help W./Kale Mod

MARCOs VIII

New member
I've been wanting to do the Kale mod for several months now...but I look at the instructions and just don't get it. Help Please!

I know I need to run 4 lines of speaker wire to the air suspension computer and tap them into line 14, 15, 16, &17 so that it will open the vent to release or add air to the bags.

I also know I need to get some rocker buttons for the other end of the speaker wire...but I'm lost on everything else..

How do I get 12 volts to the buttons and what else must I do for the system to work...Is it really as difficult as it seems? Thank-you

Marco in Boston
 

Kale

New member
Quite honestly, if you have to ask, you might not want to try this mod.

BUT - To answer your question, I tapped into the power wire leading to my amp in the trunk. I suggest running a separate, fused power wire directly from the battery and at least 10gauge.

*****VERY IMPORTANT*****
The original solenoid mod is laid out differently than the new solenoid mod 1.2. It is wired off the concept that you will be dropping all four corners at once. Either via the ON/OFF switch, or via your alarm transmitter. Therefore, you have four switches that open/close the connection between 12v and the bag solenoids, and one main switch that activates the system. The four switches are not even necessary, they are just there in case you would like to dump one bag, level the car, etc.
*************************

As far as the wiring is concerned, the main power wire from the battery leads to the main ACTIVATION switch. On the other side of the activation switch it is jumped across each of the four switches AND the vent solenoid. Repeat, AND the vent solenoid (pin 30). The other side of the four bag switches lead to 14, 15, 16, 17, and 18 (the bag solenoids). When the main switch is closed, any bag switch that is closed will allow 12v to flow to the respective bag solenoid. If left open, the bag solenoid will not get 12v. As you can see, the system would work without the four bag switches, but you would not be able to control the bags independently.

The schematic also pictures a timer relay that I used to activate the circuit for ~90 seconds. Press the remote and all four corners drop for 90 seconds, then stops.

If you want to raise the car, you will need to wire a switch to control the compressor (pin 18), as well as one to cut the connection between the vent solenoid and 12v. If you neglected to cut the wire leading to the vent solenoid, the compressor would pump air directly into the surrounding atmosphere, and not into the lines.

There are MANY different ways to wire this system, this is just one example, and the one way I found that was easiest for me, esp. when dropping the car via remote.

If you need more help email me.

Kale
 

MARCOs VIII

New member
Wow--, I just want to hit a button and drop the car.

Raising it would be nice but I could live without.

Let me study these instructions and try to draw out a diagram that I understand more clearly. If I'm not completely lost I may e-mail you for more info. Thanks for taking the time to explain it to me!

-Marco in Boston
 

Kale

New member
You could also wire the timer delay to function off a separate switch instead of the remote transmitter. It accepts both + and - inputs.

The car will raise itself from the slammed position when you restart the car.

So here's a likely scenario: Park the car, hit the switch to drop the car, go shopping. Come back to the car, start it, wait for it to lift, then go about your business. Just realize that it will take 90 seconds to lift the car and that you're putting an additional strain on the compressor. IMHO, I think a healthy compressor can handle it w/o breaking a sweat. If you knew what my compressor has been through over the last couple of years you would be amazed that it is still working.

Kale
 

pvteye

New member
Kale,

Do you ride at full heighth or somewhere inbetween? Is it easy to level the car out at some height other than the 4X4 ride height of the stock settings?

thanks,
 

Kale

New member
My car is modded with a little more than the solenoid mod:

http://www.lincolnmarkviii.org/suspension/reservesystem.htm

Even that link is outdated.

I drive around at all levels, high and low, but mainly leave it somewhere between the sensor lowered position and full dump.

It is easy to drop the car to the desired height, but you will need to turn off the air ride switch if you're doing the older version of the solenoid mod.

Kale
 

MARCOs VIII

New member
Ok, I drew a few diagrams and if I understand correctly, I can simplify this by doing the following...(which will leave me with only one button and only able to drop the car when parking)

Run a 10 gauge wire (with fuse) from the battery into the cabin.

Buy some "T Taps" and tap into lines 14, 15, 16, 17, AND Vent Sol. 30

Then run speaker wire from the tap of lines 14, 15, 16, 17, AND 30

By twisting together the speaker lines (from 14,15,16,17 & 30) AND the power wire.

I can connect the 6 wires to a push button.

Then before I shut down my car, I hold the button until the car drops all the way, turn the key off and go shopping (for example) and when I return 2 hours later, I start my car, let it raise for 90 seconds and I'm off...

Is this right? If so, I should be able to handle that..

-Marco in Boston
 

Kale

New member
I have one on the tank in the back, that's it.

As far as determining ride height, I tried to explain this before, but let me try again.

If you drop the car all the way down, you can use that point as a reference. So when I get in my car and it is dumped, I hit the front two switches for a second and watch how far the front raises. It differs depending on the tank pressure and bag pressure (one of mine has a slow leak) Now I just tap the rear two switches for a split second and I'm off.

If I have to raise it up further to get over a speedbump or just to be cautious, I drop it all the way down again and hit the switches to raise her up. It's something I do w/o even thinking. Note that this drags the rear end on the ground if you drop it too hard.

A couple of really quick hits of the rear switches is enough to slow it down so that it won't hit the deck. Then lift it up again the same way I did above. The quick hits are to slow the rear end drop. If you think about a basketball bouncing on the ground, the ball actually distorts where it hits the ground. Your bags will bounce as well, extending beyond the normal suspension limit. With a car that can lay the rear end normally, you can't use this method because you'll be dragging your entire back end, exhaust and all. That's one of the reasons I'm looking for mufflers right now...

Kale
 

sleeper

Former LOD President
...
By twisting together the speaker lines (from 14,15,16,17 & 30) AND the power wire.
...
[/quote]

If you twist the wires together, the air-ride will not function correctly. Every time the computer tries to lift or lower the front or rear, all 4 solenoids and the vent solenoid will open, slamming the car.

What i did:

http://www.lincolnsclub.org/users/sleeper/solenoid_mod_1.3.jpg

It's fairly simple, really. Start by getting a piece of ABS and cutting it to fit where your cellphone goes. Then drill holes and install 5 switches on the plate, being sure that they're far enough from the edges of the plastic so that the plastic fits. Then sit down with a soldering iron and solder leads onto all the switches. There are a lot of ways to hook it up, the method above was the best for me. If you don't want to be able to raise it manually, don't care about the error message on the dash, and don't want to get diodes, then you may want something more basic. This is about as basic as i can make it:

http://www.lincolnsclub.org/users/sleeper/basic_solenoid_mod.jpg

For power, i used the wire going to the cigarette ligher. It is already fused, and it's right there in the center console. If you want to hook it up so you can raise it too (highly recommended), then tap into the ground for the cigarette lighter too, and hook up another switch (preferably a momentary switch - a switch that goes back to off as soon as you let go) to ground and to pin 18. When you press that button the compressor will activate.

The switches on pins 14, 15, 16, and 17 are for the solenoids at the wheels. Each one controls one wheel. To raise or lower the car, open the wheel solenoids, and press the "up" or "down" button (wired to pins 18 and 30, respectively) to achieve the desired ride height. I recommend you only do two wheels at a time. If you open all 4 solenoids, the weight on the front of the car will force the air in the front bags into the rear bags, and the front will slam while the back goes way up.

If you hook it up this way, when your hands are off the switches, your air-ride will function normally. When you start playing with it, you'll get an error message, which shuts the computer off and lets you do what you want. If you shut the car off and want to slam it, you'll have to turn the computer off in the trunk to keep it from trying to lift it back up. Also, when you slam it, stop letting the air out as soon as the car stops going down, or else it'll take a lot longer to lift it back up. If you're lifting it manually, don't let the compressor run for more than about a minute and a half. you don't want to overheat it.

And Jeremi, you get under there with a soldering iron and then tell me not to use t-taps. :) I'm using the taps (something slightly different, actually), and i haven't had a problem yet. They work great. I'd definitely solder the wires on the switches, but it's just not feasible to solder the wires into the harness for the computer.
 

Kale

New member
There's something I don't understand about your first comment. Twisting all the wires together should be perfectly fine, considering you have a switch located upstream and you use diodes to hide the circuit from the computer. It's exactly what I did minus the four independant switches.

Kale
 

sleeper

Former LOD President
he didn't say anything about diodes. i didn't notice that you already told him he needs the diodes. if you put the diodes in, that should work fine (not very elegant, but at least somewhat functional). But without the diodes you're going to screw everything up by doing that.

There are a million ways to hook it up. You can figure it out yourself with a basic understanding of the air-ride (knowing what wires do what and with what voltage) and a basic knowledge of diodes, switches, and wiring.
 

Kale

New member
True, the key for me was just having the schematics. The 1.2 mod is a much slicker and useful way of doing it. That took a little more legwork to figure out. A while ago I was tempted to just post the schematics and a few pointers. Only those who could understand the schematic would attempt the modification. I decided it was worth it to leave it up as it is and try helping the guy who might be inbetween.

Kale
 

MARCOs VIII

New member
I just want to slam the car when parked for now...but thanks Dave those instructions are very easy to understand, I'll wire it up to activate the compressor at a later date. (I'm thinking I could use 2 normal buttons 1 for the front bags and one for the rear, and 2 push buttons 1 for pin 30 and 1 for pin 18)

Kale, At which end do I place the diodes? and after slamming the car and turning off the key will the cpu automatically adjust itself after an hour? I'd like to leave the air ride on without it adjusting.

Also, with the cigarette lighter, i know the ground is black, but what color is the 12 volt supply and should i purchase the T -Taps for a 16 gauge wire?

Thank-you

Marco in Boston
 

pvteye

New member
I am really glad this thread popped up.... gaining more confidence to attempt the 1.2 Kale Mod.

Is there a specfic type of Diode... or just any diode from R/S will do..? any part number on the momentary switches you used?
want to get everything at one time, and get the right stuff.

Thanks
Rex
 

Kale

New member
The stripe on the diode should be closest to the ECU. Hook up 12V to a wire, place the diode on one end and see if you have 12v on the other side of the diode. This tells you for sure how to place the diodes. The idea is to allow 12v to flow FROM the activation switch to the ECU, not the other way around.

I bought some 1W Zener Diodes that worked, a grab-bag of assorted diodes, and some 15V 1-amp diodes that worked as well. I'm not even sure how the diodes are rated and what would be best to use in a 12v DC system, all I know is that all of the ones I bought worked fine.

For the cigarette lighter, you can put a meter on it if you have one, but I'm pretty sure the other wire connects to the middle of the lighter while the black wire connects to the body of the lighter.

As far as the car raising back up after an hour, mine didn't and that perplexed me a little, but I think it is because it errors when triggered. If you do the 1.2 mod, it cuts off the air ride so you won't have to worry about that. If you run into this problem I'd like to hear about it. A relay that cuts off the air ride whenever you hit the switch would cure the problem.

Kale
 

MARCOs VIII

New member
Here’s what I have purchased so far:

2 SPST Rocker Switches (rated 10A at 125 Vac or 6A at 250Vac)

2 SPST - momentary push button switches rated 3A at 125 Vac or 1.5A at 250 Vac

A box of Tap-In Squeeze Connectors for 22 - 18 gauge wire

A box of Tap-In Squeeze Connectors for 18 -14 gauge wire

(couldn’t find the "T-Taps" and I wasn’t sure what gauge the wires on the ECU are…)

50 ft. of 16 gauge speaker wire

and Six IN4003 - micromini Silicon Diodes 200V - 1A

I will tap pins 14 +15 and the 12 volt supply from the lighter for the first switch (front end)

then 16 + 17 plus 12 volts for the back end = switch # 2

the push button switch will be connected to the tap of pin 30 and the 12 volt supply

the 2nd push button will be connected to the lighter ground and pin 18

If I read Dave’s instructions correctly this should do it for me. No need for diodes…but I bought them just in case.

Although, it looks like I bought the wrong diodes. The diodes I bought are a thin piece of wire, maybe 2 inches long with a small cylinder type thing in the middle. ----------{}---------- (like that) I was under the impression that I would have to cut the speaker wire and stick the diode in between each end of the speaker wire. I’ll see if I can find some Zener Diodes.

I’m going to buy and extra switch and splice the wires in the trunk so that I can shut down my air suspension from the cabin, just in case the car does raise after I shut it off…I would use a relay but I don’t understand how it is to be used even after reading the 1.2 and original mod write up.
 

Mad1stGen

Booster
Dave, I did solder all the connections. It really wasn't that difficult. But then again, my bad experience with t-taps comes from the time I worked at GM dealership, and they used to install all the Goodwrench alarms with these taps, and I had to resolder all the connections sooner or later as warranty work. You might get lucky though. When you get that alarm, make sure I use t-taps when I install it for you ... :p
 
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