Help W./Kale Mod

sleeper

Former LOD President
My current alarm is installed with all twist-and-tape connections and i haven't had a problem (other than the fact that the alarm sucks) :). Maybe i need a better soldering iron, but whenever i try to solder something under the dash i end up getting pissed and twisting and taping it anyway.

I'm planning on ordering that alarm this week. Whenever you have time and want to come over and work for some beer, i should be ready. I want to insall my old alarm and remote start in my winter-beater (93 blazer this year) too.
 

MARCOs VIII

New member
Here are my results…Only using speaker wire, 4 switches and some squeeze taps I can now control the height of the car. I tapped into the cig. Lighter -12 volt and ground like Dave suggested. It was very easy and convenient.

I can slam the car and it will stay that way I DO NOT have to shut off the air suspension in the trunk.

When I start the car the front raises then I get the check air suspension message. So all I have to do is raise the rear.

If I don’t touch the switches the car will go back to it’s usual drive height after starting it 3 or more times (with no check air suspension message).

The only thing is that if a passenger gets out -- the car will adjust (drop) for a second then I get the check air suspension.

I bought the 12 volt Zener Diodes as Kale mentioned, but I don’t know if I should use them. A friend said I can stick one end of the diode into the speaker wire heading to the ECU, then I can cut down the other end of the diode and connect or solder it to the switch with the tip of the speaker wire.

Will this solve my "Check Air Suspension" message??

Everything went smoothly, I only messed up my traction control button, it no longer lights up. I think it may just be the bulb that needs replacing because the harness is securely in position.

Does anyone know if that bulb can be replaced or is there a way I can test and see if the traction control button still works??

Thank-you Kale and Dave, this mod was not very hard at all, with the right directions anyone can do it!!!

Marco in Boston
 

Kale

New member
Yes the diodes should solve that problem and you should sensor lower the car to decrease the amount the car has to lift.

The compressor will run for 90 seconds max. If you allow the fronts to dump too long you will not be able to get the car back up within that period. You just need to dump the front until the suspension is all the way down. It takes 100 psi to lift the front so there is still a considerable amount of air in the bags.

Here is a link to replacing that bulb:

http://www.lincolnsclub.org/dcforum/DCForumID6/26.html

Kale
 

MARCOs VIII

New member
I replaced the bulbs.

The diodes did Not work though.

I connected one end of the diode under the switch, and fished the other end down into the speaker wire leading to the ECU taps. I Did place them in the correct direction as well.

Thanks

Marco in Boston
 

PHILLYRT

New member
ok i'm a jackass... does someone have a digital camera that can take pics of what the computer looks like and what the connections look like... and also a complete list of parts needed maybe from a online store of radio shack with part #'s... "dropping the mark for dummies"
 

Kale

New member
There must be a problem with your wiring somewhere because the diodes will work if wired correctly. Sticking one end of the diode into the wire doesn't sound like a good connection to me. Solder it or use crimp connectors.

If you spliced the four wires together you need to place the diodes so that they prevent current from bleeding over to the next wire. This is why you need five instead of just one. Each bag solenoid will supply 12v and if they are allowed to connect at any point, you'll get an error. This is probably where you problem lies.

If you did the simpler version of the solenoid mod, it will error when you activate it, but it should not error when the computer raises the car. It should be unnoticed by the stock electronics. The 1.2 mod, which cuts the message center error lead as well as power to the module, will cure that problem and will allow you to let the computer take over at any time by hitting a reset switch.

There are pictures on this page that show the ecu as well as a list of stuff you'll need:

http://www.lincolnmarkviii.org/suspension/airsuspension2.htm

Kale
 

avu3

New member
Not helpful for the current course of conversation, sorry about your trouble, Marco, But I found the T-Taps at Napa

They have Napa and Belden on the front, and federal-Mogul on the back.

So, someone beyond 3M must have jumped in.

Scott
 
Top