i made a change!

jamies98lsc

jamies98lsc

New member
well tonight i decided to treat the old greenie with some motorcraft 5-30 synthetic blend and motor craft filter. i always buy the cheap stuff from walmart, usually supertech 5-30 and a fram filter, but after reading many posts, and having a little extra money today i decided to go motor craft. i'm sure it wont make much of a difference, but its peace of mind if anything. the oil wasnt bad, $2.69 a qt so what the hell! i also threw on a pair of freshly turned 97 front rotors and slapped some new pads on it, the rotors that were on it were pretty warped from my stupid driving, now it stops on a dime and no more steering wheel shimmy!! new front suspension parts, new oil, new trans service, new tires and new brakes, ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh she rides like a lincoln again!! since it was my wifes daily ride i never really did anything to it because i didnt drive it, but since i sold my 98 and my other 93, i have been racking up the miles on it and man it was a pile lol!! now if i can get some time for a nice bath and wax job she'll be looking good too!
 
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maxmk8

New member
Finally!!!

lol Motorcraft semi-synthetic was the "worst" oil i have ever used in the mark.

The FL820s filter at china mart is only 3.49 or so why would you even by the fram at the same cost. The motorcraft is wayyyy superior.
 
driller

driller

El Presidente
maxmk8 said:
Finally!!!

lol Motorcraft semi-synthetic was the "worst" oil i have ever used in the mark.

The FL820s filter at china mart is only 3.49 or so why would you even by the fram at the same cost. The motorcraft is wayyyy superior.
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I agree with you on the filter but could you explain why "Motorcraft semi-synthetic was the "worst" oil i have ever used in the mark"?
 
jamies98lsc

jamies98lsc

New member
well i dont shop for oil filters often enough to pay attention the cost max, when my wife drove it she never went anywhere, it took 6 months before it was due for an oil change so i wasnt in the store every week comparing filter!!!! most of the time i grabbed purolator filters from autozone for my other cars. like i said though, oil and filters never meant crap to me, if its oil, it works, if its a filter, it works, i'm not one of those anal type people who has to put the best of the best and only brand name super duper crap on them, its a friggin car, i'm not taking care of a new born baby!
 
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BlackIceLSC

New member
I'm with Jamie on this one.
I have used Motorcraft semi-synth in my 94, Coastal, Napa, whatever...I even used 10w-30, and a no-name filter.

181k miles, silent start ups, doesnt burn any, and...well...it's a car.

I'd say it served it's purpose.

Max, quit using synthetic oils man...save the cost difference for something that might need it. You arent going to have oiling problems in the CV.

Now the vette...that's different. If you dont spoil them, they turn on you.

BTW...you should get ahold of my buddy Ken Peters of Nor-Cal Vettes...they have a huge following, and one night at the drags, they had their own class...43 vettes showed up...that's more than 2 of the other classes combined.

There were about 30 Z-06's in the lanes...that's alot of coin parked in one location.
 
Last Mrk

Last Mrk

Charter Member
BlackIceLSC said:
Max, quit using synthetic oils man...save the cost difference for something that might need it. You arent going to have oiling problems in the CV.
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That's easy for you California guys to say, but if you live where it gets down to -10∘ or lower in the winter, it's good to have oil in your crankcase that doesn't have the constancy of tar when it gets that cold.
 
jamies98lsc

jamies98lsc

New member
even using cheap oil and filters, my deep jewel greenie just turned 115600 exactly tonight and still have no tensioner slap on start up, i did notice a tiny oil leak under it last night, but i cannot tell where its coming from, the fan has blown it onto the k member so once the leak gets bigger i'll examine what the problem is, it looks like it might be the oil sender because it was wet but the adapter plate isnt, i have had to change the oil sender on all 4 of my other marks, i'm sure this one is due soon too.
 
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maxmk8

New member
BlackIceLSC said:
Max, quit using synthetic oils man...save the cost difference for something that might need it. You arent going to have oiling problems in the CV.

Now the vette...that's different. If you dont spoil them, they turn on you.

BTW...you should get ahold of my buddy Ken Peters of Nor-Cal Vettes...they have a huge following, and one night at the drags, they had their own class...43 vettes showed up...that's more than 2 of the other classes combined.

There were about 30 Z-06's in the lanes...that's alot of coin parked in one location.
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Yea the nor-cal vettes guys are great I went to one of their houses for a party and it was tons of fun.

I change the M1 in the crown vic every 8000-9000 miles... blackstone labs confirmed it is a good mileage to do it at. It is no more expensive to use than dino and I get the convenience of not having to change it 4 times a year.
 
merkurmadness

merkurmadness

New member
prob. going to hear a bunch of flack over this reply...... under normal operating conditions regular motor oil doesn't "BREAK DOWN" it gets contaminated causing it to lose viscosity. while synthetics keep the viscosity it still gets contaminated by combustion by products(carbon,unburned fuel ect.). and when the oil filter gets enough debris it by passes(it also by passes at high rpm) if your oil is black you've waited too long... the debris is what wears your engine synthetics hold the debris in suspension better than standard oils. but its still like a fine grinding compond running through the oil syst!(ever seen the rockwell hardness test on carbon!!!) if you use synthetics at least change the filter at regular intervals just because the oil is tougher the amount of by products remains the same and there is no way of knowing if the filter is by passing. I personally enjoy having to use the oils reflection on the dip stick to tell what the level is and knowing that my oil is not leaving a build up inside! my merkur has 280,000 miles and does'nt use a drop of oil between 3000 mile changes! I run between 17-21 psi of intercooled boost regularly and the last 20,000 miles its had a 50 shot of nitrous(40-50 runs racing) to spool the turbo quicker! its got 275-300 hp out of 2.3 liters(not counting the nitrous)... if you change your synthetic oil at the manufactures interval your engine is wearing the same with half the oil changes big deal! I would rather have a regular oil engine that the owner changed the oil and filter when it got dark and contaminated!!! bottom line oil is cheap engines are not!!!!
 
jamies98lsc

jamies98lsc

New member
i didnt switch to the motor craft to get more miles out of the oil though, i just switched to motor craft, i dont care about the regular or synthetic part, i just got what they had, i still change my oil at 3000 miles or as close as i can. i should have stated the title as being " switch to motorcraft brand oil" i didnt mean to make it sound like i switched from conventional oil to synthetic oil. i just simply wanted to put motorcraft oil in the car!
 
D

Destroyer

New member
I do Mobil 1 on all my current vechicles. I don't know if it makes a difference, probably not. I hear its ok to drive 10k miles between oil changes using Mobil 1 but I still get it changed every 3-4k. I'm probably wasting money.
 
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maxmk8

New member
merkurmadness said:
prob. going to hear a bunch of flack over this reply......
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This is why i sent my oil to the lab to have the contaminant levels checked and to get a good recommendation for an interval, 9000 miles was suggested. oil color is NOT a good indication of wear/contaminants.

Destroyer said:
I do Mobil 1 on all my current vechicles. I don't know if it makes a difference, probably not. I hear its ok to drive 10k miles between oil changes using Mobil 1 but I still get it changed every 3-4k. I'm probably wasting money.
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Yes you are wasting a ton of money.
 
J

J

OCCUPY LoD :)
I drained my oil and ran my car with water to flush out the system. *duuurrrr* LMAO!
 
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BlackMark8

New member
No oil compares to the PENZZ . I use penz with a fram. I change it religously. Quagulated oil can hurt your oil pump. Penz is proven to work the best, longest.
 
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BlackIceLSC

New member
based on the Penzoil issues I have seen in the past, I'd run beach sand in my motors before going anywhere near Penzoil.

That was a while ago...and you wont convince me otherwise presently.

any oil company's slogan that states "works like liquid ball-bearings" needs a new ad campaign. How many people do you know that would pour ball-bearings inside their engine! lol

We lifted the valve covers off a '70's Corvette with a 350 in it, and the owner was adamant about how wonderful his oil has been over the years (Penzoil)...it looked like tar underneath.
 
budpytko

budpytko

Super Senior Associate
If it is Penzoil SYNTHETC, it'll be ok. Lots of parifin in PA oil and I too would use something else. Same with Quaker State. Plants are right across the street from each other in Oil City, PA. Strange too....the oil pipes go over the road between the 2 plants...or used to anyway.
 
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Destroyer

New member
BlackMark8 said:
No oil compares to the PENZZ . I use penz with a fram. I change it religously. Quagulated oil can hurt your oil pump. Penz is proven to work the best, longest.
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Everyone has oil preferences and I don't understand the whole concept of one being happy with the oil they are using. I have hardly EVER had ANY catastrophic failure in a car due to the oil I was using, no matter the type. Yeah I put Mobil 1 in my cars, it's more a psychological thing than anything else but truth is I have noticed no difference between it and the "cheap" oils I've run in other cars.
 
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