metal brake lines

[DLF]

Just as a follow-up, here are some pics of a set of stainless rear lines on a customer's car from earlier this year.

The first pic shows the junk that I removed from his car. Someone had previously tried to patch the lines to replace some rusting sections.

The lines are properly bent and fit well.

p.s. In reply to my email, I was told that they do not offer stainless fittings.

 

[Yokomo99]

Do they have the pattern for the lines to the anti-lock system and the master cylinder as well?

 

[SCTBIRD1173]

The only other lines they make are the RF wheel to ABS assembly and LF wheel to ABS assembly.

 

[driller]

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I guess I'll be calling tomorrow and see if they have a set for the '93.

Are there any model year specifics I need to know?

If you're getting just the two rear lines, then all years are the same.

Does your car still have the junction and sensor for the shocks? If so, it'll get bypassed when you install the new lines (just unplug it), but I know that you have Koni's installed anyway.

If, for some reason, they won't make you a set, I may have a set available.

I was informed they have no pattern for the '93-'94. They have a pattern for the '95-'98.

Am I to assume this is due to the junction block for the shocks?

 

[DLF]

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I was informed they have no pattern for the '93-'94. They have a pattern for the '95-'98.

Am I to assume this is due to the junction block for the shocks?

Yes.

Idiots!

Just tell them you have a '95 then.

The rear lines will work fine on your '93, The pics I posted above are an install on a '93.

 

[driller]

Thanks, I thought so.

I'll call again tomorrow and enlighten them my '93 is actually a '95.

 

[billcu]

Even the fronts will work (they did on my 94) with just a bit of re-bending at the ABS unit.

 

[driller]

I'm happy to report the rear lines for the '95 do indeed fit the '93.

There were two differences, both minor which turned out easy to overcome. The first and most obvious was the need to delete the brake pressure sensor in the rear for the shock damper control. The second difference is the front of the brake lines where they connect at the drivers side fender well. Doug's pic above shows the lines connecting vertically with a male fitting into what I assume is a proportioning valve. My '93 had no such valve and the OEM lines went up about an inch then inboard with a female fitting connecting to the brake lines which then wrap up into the engine compartment. No biggie though, I was able to twist and bend the lines and join them with a pair of bubble flare unions I picked up at a local parts store. One is a M10-1.0-3/16" while the other is slightly larger with a M12-1.0-3/16" fitting.

This was also an opportunity to install SS brake lines on the rear calipers that have been on the to-do list far too long. All I needed there was fresh copper washers and some nylon zip ties.

The absolute worse part was removal of the old line that traverses across the rear from the drivers side to the passenger side. Needless to say it came out in pieces. The second worse part was replacing said line, fishing the new line through without bending it where it shouldn't be (and without dropping the exhaust and rear driveline). But once accomplished there was light at the end of the tunnel and the remainder of the project went without incident.

The set came with lines for the front which I left for another day. With new SS hard lines to the rear and SS brake hoses, I should be good for now.

 

[billcu]

The set came with lines for the front which I left for another day.

Yes, save those front lines for another day.

You just did the easy ones today.

 

[DLF]

The second difference is the front of the brake lines where they connect at the drivers side fender well. Doug's pic above shows the lines connecting vertically with a male fitting into what I assume is a proportioning valve. My '93 had no such valve and the OEM lines went up about an inch then inboard with a female fitting connecting to the brake lines which then wrap up into the engine compartment.

I'm quite surprised that your car didn't have the proportioning valve, as the '93 in the pics did.

 

[driller]

You just did the easy ones today.

Oh great.

The front lines are in decent shape, so we'll probably wait until something else requires me to tear down the front.

I'm quite surprised that your car didn't have the proportioning valve, as the '93 in the pics did.

I was a bit surprised myself when I pulled back the inner fender liner. I already knew what it should've looked like from looking at the replacement lines and this thread. I should've took a picture.

I wonder if there is a proportioning valve somewhere else, maybe up inside the engine compartment? Seems strange it wouldn't have one at all.

 

[billcu]

Keep an eye on the front line under the radiator, it's not coated, they rust bad.

I replaced it on the green Mark, but when I had to replace it on the black beater, I re routed it up out of the way of the road slush and salt. Much easier too.

 

[SCTBIRD1173]

My car was driven in salt often by the previous owner and while my rear lines were toast my front line that runs across the radiator support looks fine. I'm going to wait to change the fronts when I do the hub swap and the brake upgrade.

 

[Too Many Cars]

I don't like to reply to old posts; however this is the newest thread that I found in my search. I just got through rebuilding the front end on my Mark 8 and decided to take it for a drive. When I parked the car I noticed the brake pedal sinking. Of course I looked at all of the calipers for leakage and found none. I did find that the brake line going to the drivers side rear brake was leaking though.
I want to buy stainless brake line to replace the original; however I question whether I can I replace this line without getting air in the ABS? Presently my ABS module is dead so I can't easily engage the ABS pump so it would be a bad thing to get air in the ABS.

 

[driller]

I replaced the rear lines for my brakes on the '93 and did not have any issues with the ABS.

Just make sure the reservoir does not drop below the low or add mark and bleed the brakes as usual.

 

[Too Many Cars]

Thanks for the very quick reply! I just added fluid to the master (it wasn't really low at all but just to be safe) and will keep an eye on it to make sure that it doesn't get low although I don't think that it leaks unless I push on the brake pedal. This also gives me more confidence that I can install the Cobra brake setup that I bought really cheap and squirreled away for years.

Reading through the thread I see that you purchased the stainless brake lines. Are you satisfied because that is the way that I am heading presently? Thank god that the Lincoln is not my every day driver or I would be forced into making my own lines before Monday!

 

[driller]

The SS lines I bought are very good quality, fit and function. I still have the front hard lines to replace whenever I get around to it.

 

[SCTBIRD1173]

I'm also very happy with the SS lines. They fit almost perfect, very minor bending required on mine to mimic factory routing by the gas tank, other than that they are top notch.

Being the system is open for a bit during the line swap I was also worried about the fluid levels but that never was an issue as they gravity bled very slow. An FYI: The RR is a PITA if you aren't dropping the subframe.

 

[Too Many Cars]

Change of plans. I was going to buy the pre bent stainless steel line but after seeing the difficulty of snaking a pre bent line through the rear suspension I decided to actually bend my own line; however I used nickel copper line instead of stainless steel. I did some research and the nickel copper line doesn't rust/corrode like regular steel line and it is a pleasure to work with! Nickel copper line is used in European cars because it doesn't rust like steel.

I used the money I "saved" as justification to buy a hydraulic flaring tool that actually cost more than the pre bent stainless steel brake lines made by a company called Mastercool. This tool makes flaring idiot proof! I practiced on both steel and stainless steel and they all came out good. The bubble flares match the Ford factory bubble flares perfect; however I bought a pre flared line from the auto parts store to make a temporary plug while doing the brake lines and that was different plus it also leaked!

 

[driller]

The nickel copper lines are good to use. Glad to hear you got the job done.